Hey I have come to a brick wall in my conversion everything is kicking and ready to go just need the timing done.

I have set it to TDC (top dead center) and played with the dizzy but all i get is back fires.

Ill pay someone to come out this weekend and time it for me and get my bloody car going.

I'm in Brisbane on the south side in Tingalpa.

 

Contact me on

0425617228

 

Ian

Hey I have come to a brick wall in my conversion everything is kicking and ready to go just need the timing done.

I have set it to TDC (top dead center) and played with the dizzy but all i get is back fires.

Ill pay someone to come out this weekend and time it for me and get my bloody car going.

I'm in Brisbane on the south side in Tingalpa.

 

Contact me on

0425617228

 

Ian

 

 

its pretty easy man

 

http://www.yotarepair.com/4A-GEtimingbelt.html

 

follow the later half of that

 

if you get really stuck I'm only in wynnum so can prolly come out, but theres not alot to it!

 

as for the dizzy, once you have the timing gears all lined up on the dots, point the dizzy so the rotor cap is pointing as close to spark plug lead 1 as you can, keep in mind that when you put the dizzy in the rotor cap will rotate so you need to account for that (put it slightly off so it when it spins in it lines up)

 

if your getting backfires your getting very close! jsut need to fiddle with the dizzy position. move it one tooth at a time and if its getting worse your moving it the wrong way!

 

btw FWD or RWD, as RWD is much easier to work on:P

hey mate, sounds like you've set up your timing to the exhaust stoke and not the compression.

you need to take your dizzy out, turn the crank 360 degrees, put the dizzy back in and it should start.

good luck, let us know how it goes

Morris

do you have a timing light?

 

timing should be 10 degrees at idle with the TE1 and E1 terminals bridged, without the terminals bridged it should be 16 degrees at idle.

 

now to set the timing once the motor is at TDC

 

you need to bridge the TE1 and E1 terminals in the diagnostics box. (paper clip/wire is fine)

check the base timing it should be 10 degrees at idle

if not loosen distributor blots and turn the distributor, tighten bolts and check the timing, repeat if necessary

unbridge the terminals and check timing it should be 16 degrees at idle

 

this should be done with the engine at running temperature as well

^^^ x2

^^^ x2

 

repair manual FTW :P

Hey thanks guys I'm so keen to get this biatch started. Ke70dave I seen ya down at the plaza the other night near Mcdonals I'm just up wynnum road near Bognor rd so it would be cool if you could come help out.

I got all the tools needed. The conversion has gone smooth untill the ignition then medicine man worked his magic and it was cured. Now its the starting bit.

ALL I WANT TO DO IS DRIVE MY BLOODY CAR :P

Uh and its the FWD 100KW 4A-GE with a C52 gearbox. :P

Ok guys thanks for ya help AEMoz your trick worked. Now that ive got it going there is smoke coming from the manifold near the exhaust could that be cause by a bent dodgey O2 sensor?

Ok guys thanks for ya help AEMoz your trick worked. Now that ive got it going there is smoke coming from the manifold near the exhaust could that be cause by a bent dodgey O2 sensor?

 

Could possibly be the distributor leaking oil onto the exhaust too, that's a very common problem on 4AGEs, the seals on the dizzy shaft go (fairly simply fix too if you know what you're doing)