curly Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 (edited) I have to fit Jips old tabitha KE30 motor and gearbox 5K 5 speed into a overrated KE17, i don't need to know about wiring exhaust etc but more about gearbox and engine mounts, tail shaft, gearshift hole, any help much appreciated, thanks Curly Edited July 16, 2009 by curly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calam05 Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 howd u get the endine? where did the car end up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curly Posted July 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 howd u get the endine? where did the car end up The engine is the one out of johns KE30. I still have the rest of the car inc reg till may, i don,t know if i should wreck it, repower it and sell or sell as is, john wants a few bits back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Not 100% sure on the cross member, might be ok. I think you have the skills and experience to get around that though. :dance: Shift hole in KE1X's is even further forward than a 30-55, so you'r still going to have to do some trimming there. Tailshaft spline is also smaller, so you'll have to swap the uni and the end of the tailshaft. Should be able to use your leftovers from the wagon to do this if you still have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Taz covered most the things to look out for. If the box is a 55 k50, it should bolt straight to the original ke17 gbox xmember. You may need to make clearance for the reversing switch in the gbox tunnel. If you change the motor and box over as a unit, DO NOT rest it on the center steering drag link, as you can collapse the ball end of either the idler or pitman arm. Been there done that, rooted an idler arm.... Drop the idler arm where it bolts to the chassis. Use the ke17 engine mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curly Posted July 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Taz covered most the things to look out for. If the box is a 55 k50, it should bolt straight to the original ke17 gbox xmember. You may need to make clearance for the reversing switch in the gbox tunnel. If you change the motor and box over as a unit, DO NOT rest it on the center steering drag link, as you can collapse the ball end of either the idler or pitman arm. Been there done that, rooted an idler arm.... Drop the idler arm where it bolts to the chassis. Use the ke17 engine mounts. Thats the sort of stuff i need, i know i can do it but sometimes it helps if you don't have to blase a trail, i'd put them in seperate anyway to save scratching anything, does a 3k exhaust manifold fit a 5K ? also i,ve got no spare bits out of my car everythings new or in the bin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Use the ke17 engine mounts. Aren't 3k engine mounts different to 4/5k one though? Pretty sure the drivers side one won't bolt onto the motor! :dance: .....unless maybe you pack it out with some washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Thats the sort of stuff i need, i know i can do it but sometimes it helps if you don't have to blase a trail, i'd put them in seperate anyway to save scratching anything, does a 3k exhaust manifold fit a 5K ? also i,ve got no spare bits out of my car everythings new or in the bin The 5k manifold would be better flowing if its a 4-2-1. 3k one is probably just 4-1. ....but yes it will fit and port sizes are the same. :dance: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Aren't 3k engine mounts different to 4/5k one though?Pretty sure the drivers side one won't bolt onto the motor! :dance: .....unless maybe you pack it out with some washers. They will bolt to the 5k, though you may need to drill the holes in the mounts out larger where the bolts go into the block? It has been about 7-8 years since I first put a late dished 4k in my ke15, so the memory is a little hazy. The later mounts will make the motor sit higher in the ke1x engine bay. I've used the same mounts for a K, 3k, 4k, and 5k in my ke15. :bash: Though I did modify the manifold side one to use an escort/cortina round rubber mount (with the metal block side of the orig mount) to sit the motor a bit lower to stop the extractors hitting the floor when I changed to the taller 4/5k block. I'll tell you now that it is more of a pain in the ass putting the motor and box into a ke1x separately. It is a bitch to get to the upper bellhousing bolts in the ke1x, unlike the later ke3x's where there is a lot more room between the back of the block and the firewall. It can be done, though you need to drop down the back of the box, and use several long extensions on your ratchet to do them up from under the car. I'd use all the original ke17 ancillaries and bolt them to the 5k. ie. water pump, thermostat housing, maybe even alternator and brackets (lower bracket needs block holes enlarged.. I remember that), crank pulley to simplify and clean up the change over. I guess it depends on if the snout length of the existing water pump is the short type, if so you could getaway with whatever is already on the 5k (except the fan most likely). Radiator fans are hit and miss, there are plastic ones with the correct offset that will fit in the ke1x engine bay but I couldn't tell you what the ones I've used on my ke15 and ke16 came from. There are 2 different waterpump/fan PCD's to make things more interesting (to add to at least 2 different waterpump snout lengths). They won't work with double row crank pulleys as they will hit in a ke1x. LOL. You do need a little mix and matching, especially if you want a cleaner more original looking install. The best way would be to put both motors side by side and compare. Snout length of the water pumps is the most important consideration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curly Posted July 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) [ Thanks does this mean the fan will touch the radiator. ive done all the measuring figured out the 5K extractors wont fit but ive got a set of 3k ones, theres a fair bit of difference in gearshift holes, bit of a shame to cut it up really, i'll try to keep it as original as possible Edited July 17, 2009 by curly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt-e30 Posted July 18, 2009 Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 [Thanks does this mean the fan will touch the radiator. ive done all the measuring figured out the 5K extractors wont fit but ive got a set of 3k ones, theres a fair bit of difference in gearshift holes, bit of a shame to cut it up really, i'll try to keep it as original as possible wow that is nice, must have been a hard slog to find one in that condition (I'm guessing you just bought it lol) any other plans for it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curly Posted July 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 wow that is nice, must have been a hard slog to find one in that condition (I'm guessing you just bought it lol) any other plans for it ? no i don,t own it, all i have to do is fit the motor and box and i get the rest of the ke30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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