K K K, i wanna again get some help.

 

I have a silvertop 20v 4a-ge, and i wanna do a few mods to get more out of it.

 

But then i was also thinking of, buying a blacktop doing a re-build and throwing that in instead.

 

See the things a blacktop has over a silver is : No AFM, VVT... is that it?

i know pratically nil on cars, so rebuilding a blacktop... big step.

firstly what do i need to know about the things. secondly how much is it going to cost? thirdly is it worth it? forthly where in new zealand can i get one, and how much would it cost me. and is it possible to get one already reconditioned?

 

revhead, ive talk to you about this before, can you help me again?

 

Atm I'm having Speedfactor work me up a quote for.

*New lifters.

*full perfomance exhaust.

*fuel pressure regulator.

*dropping the pod into the gaurd.

*new fuel filter.

*removing my bloody AC, doesnt work and is useless.

so I'm waiting to see how much all thats gonna be.

 

I was told to get an aftermarket ICU (LINK) and drop my AFM and use MAP.

But is it worth buying a Aftermarket ICU just for that? or would i be better to buy a blacktop?

 

So many questions.

I'm no expert on the 4AGE 20v, but I do know that all 20 Valve's had VVT. It's just that the black-top version worked slightly differently to the silver-top (presumably to some benefit). I also know that black-tops are more expensive and far less common than the silver-top. And performance parts only ever seem to be listed for the silver-top, not the black-top. Hope this is helpful.

Black Or Silver Top., Whats the difference,

 

Paint. :thumbsup:

Edited May 31, 200521 yr by Redwarf

haha

 

ok the main differences are:

 

compression 11 vs 11.5 (think thats it)

combustion chamber design

rods, b/t are lighter and weaker

s/t has afm, b/t has map.

vvt: not much difference, but a few degrees

 

 

the best combo is:

silvertop with b/t pistons and head etc running link. youll get plenty of grunt like that

 

 

4AGES DO NOT REPEAT DO NOT HAVE LIFTERS.

 

the cranks are the same

Edited June 4, 200521 yr by Mr Revhead

Ok, so 4-ages don't have lifters.. cool... what do they have?

what would make the tinking, tapping sound? it sounds like a diesel truck. thats how loud it is. and its at its loudest after the engine is warmed up (oil thins out).

and to replace this, well, noisy little... *enter word* how much would it cos?

 

I'm gonna do a work over on me engine cos i need to replace a gasket, and i though i would kill to birds with one stone, you know pick it up and throw it again! LOL, no, but replace the thing that is making the noise and the gaskets. (inner and outter) save time and probly money.

 

 

"silvertop with b/t rods and head etc running link. youll get plenty of grunt like that"

 

K, so can you point me in the direction of Blacktop rods and where i could pick up a head? as for the link, thats gonna take a few months, the industry i work for pays me peanuts. i'd need to get the ECU before i through that combo together though right?

 

I was told by a friend to get a 1.2bar radiator cap. to raise the presure and lower the boiling point of the water. recommended or not?

4ag has overhead cam. the cam actuates directly onto the valve, which as buckets and shims to set the valve clearance. to change clearance, you change the shims

 

some designs have shim under, some have shim over. 4ag is shim over i think. if you run a big lift cam, you need a screw-in shim kit, or the cam flicks the shims out of the bucket like tiddly winks

 

i assume this is why alot of aftermarket cams you see for 4ags still run stock lift, because a valvetrain kit is expensive

 

stock radiator and cap will cool a 4ag just fine

oops, made a typo, you want black top PISTONS.

not rods, they are weaker.

 

20vs have shim under bucket, they 16v shim over. there are shim/bucket one piece parts available.

 

yes stock cap is fine, if your having overheating probs check the system, ie is your rad ok?

No I'm not having overheating prob's i was just told to get a 1.2bar so i can puch the car alittle harder.

 

So in order to remove that extremely annoying tick from the engine I'm gonna have to replace the cams?

Or what? shims?

Engine!!! lol

 

so who out there know where in new zealand i can pick up a blacktop head and pistons?

and a link

 

i need the link to run the head and pistons right rev?

 

Gremlin

my chick friend thinks you should go silver, cos apparently its prettier!

Nah, the black-top looks meaner.

 

BTW, Paint, nice one Redwarf. :)

well personally, i wolud go a black top aswell...... as more power is better.

 

oh and now she thinks purple with "pink bits"

 

*silly women*

my chick friend thinks you should go silver, cos apparently its prettier!

Well, i thought about it alot, and... what? I think i'll stick with pink thanks!

LOL, i mean DARK BROWN! yeah that iT!

 

and also my cars not mean, its the driver! :) meeehhee!

no, really, it only kicks you if you get in its way! :)

 

Gremlin

I suppose the advantage of dark brown would be it could cover oil stains really well. Handy for any owners of cars with Nissan motors. :)

mmmm pink bits.

 

 

 

that noise could be the vvt pulley. quite common for them to fail.

 

i can find you b/t head and pistons. your looking at $500ishnz plus freight.

 

as for an ecu, links are very very good, but if theres no supplier near you, choose something else. find something with backup you can easily acsess.

 

no you wont need the a link to run the blacktop bits, but it will help to get the best from it

a little note for you, that ticking noise in an diesel is the injectors firing, diesels use mechanical injection so to cut a long story short thats the noise you hear... when you run 22:1 compression and no spark the fuel need to be shot in hard, when i loosen my injector from the block fuel flies out and lands 5 meters away... anyways thats my two cents worth... proberly not of any help but you could be hearing your injectors firing........