Sr20 Conversion To Ke55 Plus Rebuild Plus Pimpage

[JDM55]

Oh yeah, the one inlet mod rule. It's not the case with older(pre 72') cars. I'm even allowed aftermarket ecu.

 

Hanging to see this in the flesh!!

 

Stu

 

 

 

Damm a aftermarket ecu allowed? thats pretty awesum , theres to many rules lol , haha your welcom to check it out once i get it up and running :)

[JDM55]

so after the engineers , definaltey gave me a motivation boost ,and decided to continue on with my general plan ,that is to get the motor started in the quickest way possible,have alot of things that i need check over with the engine, particaly the wiring for the computer as i butchered it and re assembled it, and a few concerns with a few oil leaks from the front cover,and the oil relocation set up so i want to get it started before i move on incase it needs pulled out for repairs,

 

 

my basic plan is just to hook up some dodgy fuel lines to a drum and connect the turbo to the inlet and do the most basic of set ups to get it running,just like my previous test starts.

then from there can go on to properly fitting each thing, this is how i like to do things , specialy with soo many mods going on,i like to finish something and not move on to the next thing until its right,other wise can end up with 3 4 5 etc things that need sorted out and thats just more work .

 

any how i been putting this small job off for a while now, just cause, dealing with hard lines and fuel connections i havnt had much luck,

but thought id tackle this one .

 

i need to make 2 hard fuel lines, there made out of 3/8 bundy steel tube

the 2 lines go from the top fittings on the oulet of the fuel tank down to 2 bulk head fittings,and from there lead off to the surge tank.

 

first i blocked off the 2 outlets on the surge tank with a hose,so it would fill up but not go any where else bar the return line to the tank.

by doing this I'm testing the surge tank for leaks, the 2 surge tank fuel lines that were made before,the bulk head fittings them selves,the new hard lines that I'm about to make, the fuel pump inside the tank, so all these things will be covered by doing this test......

 

 

heres my tank installed in the boot as factory, all ready has the outlet fittings and pump set up etc done,i just

need top make hard lines that go down the side of the tank and turn into the bulkhead fittings.

 

easyer said than done , and youll see in a momnet why,

 

 

[JDM55]

now these probably alot of ways that this could have been done ,and probably better ways, but engineer wants hard lines inside the car,not just rubber hoses

every where, so i climbed into the boot and studyed the set up and decieded on how i wanted to go about this,

 

ill show you guys the basics then ill go abit more in depth with how to actualy make hard fuel lines and dealing with

fittings and various tools , this info may be of use to some one .....

 

first thing needed to work out the bends of the hard line and how they line up with the outlets,

its not like rubber hose where it can bend any way and dosent realy mater ,its always going to line up,

the hard line on the other hand is fixed position so it has to line up exactly with the fitting.

 

to get the basic bends and lining up of each fitting i first used wire ,bend into shape using a tube bender like this::

 

 

 

 

 

the tape is to join 2 pieces of wire so i could line up the fittings exactly, this gives me a centre line to work with,

then i bend the hard line to match the wire also using the tube bender...

 

 

 

then its a mater of fitting the end fittings and there you have one finished line..

 

[JDM55]

as with every single thing on my car its tight everywhere, and since these fittings need spanners to tighten them i needed a bit of extra room,

so created a service hole right above the fittings ,

can see in the pic the top fitting which is a 90 degree -6 fitting ,this one is the outlet from the pump,

and the bottom one i went with just using the hard line straight into the return outlet,

 

 

 

and fitted and tightented to the tank

 

 

 

looking at pics it seems like this all happens in a few mintues,but this process took me a whole nite to do one hard line,

the designng part is probabbly the hardest to decide what you want to do ,tyring to create a line with the bare minimum of bends,

and acurate connections,

 

now ill do the other line ,this shows how involved a simple fuel line can get,

lucky for this one it worked out to be a simplier design, just 3 bends and 2 fittings , still it can be tricky getting it right.

 

 

 

so thats my shape,again cut 2 pieces of wire sat each one on the lip of the fitting and taped them together to give me a final model to work from.

 

so first i wanted to prepare the end of the 3/8S bundy tube, this is most important to get leak free working fittings,

 

the idea is to get the end dead straight and very smooth, this will allow the fitting to sit flush and leave no room for fuel to seap thru,

and the smoothness also helps the flare tool to do its job easy.

 

some people swear by using a tube cutter to cut the tube dead straight, if you had a tube cutter then by almeans try it,

i didnt have one,but you don't realy need one to get this right, first i put the tube in the vice ,firmly holding the tube but not sqwausing it,

next i used a standard hack saw but the blade is a much finer toothed blade,it cuts very easy and leaves the bare minimum of gouges and ruff edges.

 

 

[kickn5k]

Damm a aftermarket ecu allowed? thats pretty awesum , theres to many rules lol , haha your welcom to check it out once i get it up and running :)

 

I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to run E85 though.

One engineer I was dealing with had no problems with it period. But they ALL seem to have different rules don't they.

Such a nice job with the fuel setup mate! Were did you get the line from? I had big dramas getting line I was happy to use. I just ended up using Teflon braid, seemed happy enough with it.

[JDM55]

next i took file and knocked out the saw cuts ,this gets it level also ,

 

next took a block with 180 grit and flatened off the end,this removes the file marks and makes the end fairly smooth,

also runn the 180 around the edge to take off the sharp burrs,

 

 

 

 

 

now that the outside and the edge is faily smooth, turn attention to the inner edge and probably the most important part,

first took a dremel tool and lighly ran around the inner edge to take off the burrs, then next got a sealer tube end and wraped some 180

around it,then sanded the inner edge and got it smooth,,,

 

 

 

then took the block again and used 320# and flatten the end and the outer edges then used the sealer tube with 320# and done the inner edges again,

and then finally took some grey scotch brite and went over the whole end.

 

and thats the prep for just one end of the tube,

 

[JDM55]

next onto the bending and shaping, as the shape only has 3 bends in it its not to bad, still have to pay attention to what your doing ,or can mess it up ,

 

so heres the tube with one end preped next to the shape I'm going to try copy,

 

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before i start bending i add 5 mm to make sure theres ample room for the flare that will be make on the end of the tube later on,

 

 

 

next step is to find where to start the bend,because the wire was bent with the bender we assume the pipe will start in the same place,

so need to find the start point, to do this i just press the wire shape into the bender and close down the arm,untill it wont push any more,then mark off

the zero position like thisss

 

 

 

then take that mark and transfer it to the pipe, this becomes the start point for the bend.....

 

 

 

next i heat the pipe up with a heat gun, this isnt realy needed but i found with this larger pipe it tends to crush in a bit when its bent,

so want to try give it a good chance to stay reasonably round...

Edited January 22, 2012 by JDM55

[JDM55]

so heated up and into the bender, line up the zero mark and start bending! this first bend is a 90 degree,

smaller pipe is fairly easy to bend with this tool, but this stuff takes a fair bit of effort to get it

started, once its started its not to bad just keep steady pressure on the tools arms .

 

 

tube bent to 90

 

 

 

and thats a bingo!!!

 

 

 

the next bend was bairly 5 degrees in the middle of the pipe and then another 90 degree using the same mark and transfer mark method,this

keeps the lenghts very close to the wires size, that way when its finished it only needs a slight tweek to line up the ends

of the pipe with the fitting openings.

 

these 2 pieces are the fittings for one end of the pipe, the smaller sleave holds the threaded nut onto the tube by means of a flare that

I'm going to make on the tube .....

 

 

 

you can get flare tools on ebay for fairly cheap but most of the cheap ones are rubbish and don't do a good job,

but they have a 45 degree angle on the flare they create, there mostly for brakes ,clutch lines etc,

the flare i need to make is a 37 degree flare,this size is for speed flow fittings ,

now very easy to get the brake flare tools,not so easy finding the 37 degree ones, i had quotes for up ward of 240 aus dollars,

which i wasnt prepared to pay just to do a few lines here and there,

so after the hunt online,i came across one from the states, was 60 us dollars and looked to be be fairly good quaility,

 

so thats what i ended up with ;;;

 

[JDM55]

I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to run E85 though.

One engineer I was dealing with had no problems with it period. But they ALL seem to have different rules don't they.

Such a nice job with the fuel setup mate! Were did you get the line from? I had big dramas getting line I was happy to use. I just ended up using Teflon braid, seemed happy enough with it.

 

 

 

yes its rediculous what some of them think is right,it realy shouldnt be that way ,they all should have a general guide to go by, but most seem to have there own little things they don't like ,don't get me started on them haha not exactly my fav subject, i got the line from bursons actualy, the main under car lines will be braided with speed flow fittings , but thats another story all together ,another subject that hasnet impressed me yet, any way its the road i choose to go so stuck with it now

[JDM55]

placed the tube in the vice to hold it tight ,then put the 2 fittings on first the fitted the flare tool,

this one clamps the pipe by winding in a screw on one end,a few mms is left above the flare to ,

 

 

 

 

 

then the flaring part goes on next and it locks onto the base on an angle, the plunger drives down onto the pipe end, and spreads the end open

to an angle of 37 degrees,

 

only used this a few times and it makes very good flares,easily the best tool for flairing ive used,

 

 

 

this is the sleave that sitts at the end of the pipe and then the other part goes over the top and screws into the fitting,in theroy this should seal

.......

 

 

and after preping the other end of the pipe and then doing the same procedure i ended up with one custom bent fuel hose with -6 end fittings ..

 

 

[JDM55]

 

 

cleaned up and ready to go on, how ever small problem ,this is 2.00 in the morning so wasnt exactly wide awake,and over tightened

it ,didnt realy notice at the time tho till later...

 

 

 

and this is how the 2 lines come together to meet the bulk head fittings.... i didnt notice at the time but in the pic you can see a tiny slot in the bottom sleave,

this is from me cranking down on it way to heavy, it actualy split the sleave in half,this later causes dramas....

 

 

 

 

and welcome to ryans petrol station!!!!!!!!!!!!! unleaded with a slice of jdm please :P

i had no way of actualy putting petrol in to the tank! so came up with a random petrol pump set up,

made a nosel with a bit of bundy tube, put a flare and fitting on the same as described before,

screwed in a filter,than fitted a random hose and hooked that to a carter fuel pump, then from there

a hose to my dodgy petrol tank set up! and it works like a charm,

i think maybe i should have used this carter pump instead of the vl turbo intank pump,as the lift pump,

this thing is off its head, even tho the fuel is flowing from a drum thru 10 mm lines ,the pump carryed

20 litres in only a few minutes , its got balls .

 

 

any way ,filled the tank with some petrol, and got the intank pump running, basicly it was taking petrol out the top of the tank down the hard line

into a surge tank, filling that up them pushing the excess back up the return hard line and into the tank.

 

well thats what it was spose to do....

[JDM55]

this is what petrol does to paint

 

 

so as described before the crack in the sleave was letting out a fair bit of fuel, :bash:

 

but on the upside,the surge tank didnt leak,the surge tank hoses didint leak,the return hard line

and fittings all didnt leak ,the fuel pump in the tank was working,so even tho there was a leak it wasnt a bad effort,

 

to fix the leak i removed the line, and set it in the vice and carefuly cut off the flared part off, tryed not to loose tomuch lenght,

i think it was 2 or 3 mm that was lost so stuff all, so fingers crossed it will still line up with the fittings,

flared the end again and fitted it up refilled with petrol and fired up the pump

and no leaks :wink:

[JDM55]

well quite a good weekend,got a few things done that i wanted to get out of the way ,so here we go

 

 

so the boot, i wanted to try finish this off soon so can move on to other things,

i built a cover for the tanks and lines,just to tidy up that part a bit, then i got my amp

and set that up on the board,along with s set of xovers and the million lenghts of speaker wire,

 

 

 

its not that flash and the amp is only a cheapy i had laying about at home, so hopefully it stil works ,lol

but its tidy enough and orginises the zillion cables running every where

 

 

 

still have to do a few things to the board to get it to fit in there, so put that a side for the moment,

 

i made a bracket and wired up a switch for the boot lid lights,and got them working ,they look pretty cool :)

 

 

 

it was hot as today in the work shop was slowing me down abit,(not realy a fan of the over 30 degree days)

but the spiders seem to like it they were coming out every where!

 

had this huge one nearly walk over my foot, scared the shit out of me!! needless to say he was soaked in crc and set on fire lolol he went up big time

[JDM55]

i had these parts in a box sitting there waiting to get a colour change so thought id squesse them in this weekend,

theres are parts off the factory seats and the steering coloum cover,had to get them matching with the rest of the stuff,

 

 

 

this is the turny knob thing that adjusts the seat forwad and back,quick story, about a year ago

was going thru some of the boxes here at work and theres just random car badges and stickers and crap off

all sorts of cars,being a smash repair place we get alot of differnt cars here, any way was going thru a box and

come across these 2 round disks,they were brushed metal disks with toyota in the middle in black,brand new,

i have no idea what they were used on,but i thought id keep them and try use them on the car some where ,

well when i was prepping the turn knobs i remembered about them and they fit perfectly in the gap in the front,haha

random as ,i forgot to take a shot of them ,but will get one later on ,

 

 

 

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

some painted parts!! haha been a while since i painted any parts ,so was good to do something differnt,

 

even the head rests got a colour change lol,got some plans for the seats as well, but nore on that idea a bit later....

 

Edited January 29, 2012 by JDM55

[JDM55]

so this one is a pretty big part,and probably going to be a big costly in the end , but being broke i have to

try to use just the parts i have and spend as little as possible.

 

THE RADIATOR

 

theres a big gap rite there...

 

 

 

so radiator.... well probably going to a pain in the ass this one,i rung around a few places and found a full

custom one would cost me between 650 to 700 plus, then need fans ,and custom hoses etc, could

be upward of 800 dollars by the time its all sorted,no good for me

don't have 800 dollars for a radiator, so have to take a cheaper option.

 

now a couple of things before i get right into this, first of all

my radiator support panel has been choped and changed,

so reusing the stock radiator could be done but my old one is pretty toasted,

so not realy a good option,i know a few people have used the factory radiator ,

and I'm sure it would work ok,but I'm having to buy a radiator any way since i havnt goto a usable one.

 

i hunted and hunted on line for a while before doing this, it was a mission to find someting that,could be used

or modded in a very small way to get to work,finiding the core size first of all has been the hardest,

spoken to several people about what they have used, and i nearly went with a holden torana unit,

it was a big radiator, probably would have worked realy well but ,again after a close look into

spec sizes and fittment ,i deiced not to go that path,

out of shear luck,i came across a MAZDA RX2 alloy radiator on ebay ,

the specs were actulay very good and matched my rad suport very closely.

still a few things on it that would need to be changed,out lets were in wrong places, but so far ,its the closest thing that ive

been able to find ,specialy the core size hight and widith were very close,

 

so with that in mind i further went on the hunt to get the cheapest one i could get,

180 dollars i payed for this one ...

it had large mounting flaps on each side,they had to be removed in order to squeese inbetween the 2 intercooler pipes.

no big deal just a measure up and out with the jigsaw, couple of cuts and that was done,

 

a test fit to see how tight it was and found it was perfect size!, the left over mounting flaps sitt perfectly onto the

rad support rails, the eadgesof the flaps come close but don't touch the intercooler piping,so bonus!!!

 

another good thing about this radi is its a triple core,very thick indeed,so I'm hoping the thickness will make up for having a larger core size overall.

 

its 72 thick ,thingk the average alloy radi is about 52, keeping in mind tho,that this one is for a rotary, and they run fairly warm,

 

i hope that it will be enuff to keep my engine warm and do the job at least to get me up and running,

 

sure beats 700 dollars for a custom one :)

 

 

 

so now that ive got the radi and drilled up mounting holes, that were again very tight but fits ,i needed to get a fan for it and start looking at that

side of things, lucky for me i have a fan in my cupboard just sitting there,no idea why i had bought that size,it was a 14 inch

fan and was the perfect size for this rx2 radi, fluke or luck ,what ever , at least i don't have to go fork out for a new fan as well.

 

instead of mounting the fan direct to the radi,with those thin push thru clip things, i thought id make a plate up and bolt the fan

to the plate and the plate to the radi, which already had mounting points for some sort of fan set up.

 

here i just get some card board and get my basic shape the fan cut out and the mounting hole positions....

 

 

 

 

 

hunted around the hosue and work,but couldnt find any plate alloy sheet that was big enuff for the job,so i ended having to use this alloy checker

plate that i had left over from a old project, it was the right thickness and had a polished finish on the checker plate,

and so very light being alloy.

 

traced ot and marked out the mounting holes and shapes etc...

 

 

 

after i got the thing cut out was a whip around the edges to remove any sharp bits an dstraighten up my terrible cutting,

 

 

after being all sanded and smoothed i check it against the radi ,just to get an idea what it would look like ....

 

 

 

and looks like it will do the job,so i gave the front a polish ,to bring back the shine as it had dulled a bit sitting around in the weather,,,

 

 

 

 

 

after the polish it was fit the fan....