Sr20 Conversion To Ke55 Plus Rebuild Plus Pimpage

[kickn5k]

Wow no s$&t pimpage!! Looking awesome man. Keep up the good work.

 

Stu.

[SLO-030]

thanks man I'm wraped ,its just another small step closer, theres some pics for you :)

 

WOW. Just. WOW! Well done Ryan, looks mental!

 

When you butt weld something like this, leave an (appox) 3mm gap between the two pieces you are welding, the weld will soak in much better, giving a flush finish weld, and more strength. :y:

 

^^^ What Matt said. Or Grind a 45deg chamfer on the faces to be welded :yes:

[JDM55]

Awesome, really outstanding work! Car of the year next year for sure!

 

 

 

When you butt weld something like this, leave an (appox) 3mm gap between the two pieces you are welding, the weld will soak in much better, giving a flush finish weld, and more strength. :y:

 

 

 

cheers man ,I'm trying , seems to take a few trys to get things rite but get there in the end, cheers for the tip on welding! ill try that out next time for sure :)

[JDM55]

well things are about to get hectic, nearly the end of the week, and of corse nearly xmas, and of corse theres the holiday break! which I'm going to use to do as much as i can on my car , a chance to get a good week or soo of decent work happening , up to now its just been friday nite and saturdays , realy can't get alot done in that time,so progression is so slow and frustrating at times , how ever I'm getting there now so pump some hard hours in and should be able to get things realy happening :)

 

ill post up a few things but things will be very random , i have a ton of little jobs to do ,hopefully all goes well over the coming weeks , realy pushing to hear the motor running in the car!!!!

 

 

any way just steping back a bit heres my clutch pedal i was talking about, in the pic can see the section i added to the pedal , keeping in mind this was just temp to get the clutch working,now that ive worked that out , need to sort out a proper pedal set up a bit more reliable than this one,

 

 

went and got a piece of 5 mm steel plate and took a template of the pedal ,including the positions of the holes and where the bends were,basicly want to make a new pedal exactly the same as the welded up one, except the new one will be one piece and not a dodgy 3 piece thing,which probably would have been ok but id rather have piece of mind having a solid one :)

 

Edited December 21, 2011 by JDM55

[JDM55]

several hours later , alot of cutting and grinding drilling and generaly being noisey and making a mess, i ended up with a piece that looks like a pedal! quite happy with how its looking , managed to get the bends pretty close to the original even :)

 

 

[JDM55]

pretty happy finished off the clutch pedal,,

 

welded on the pedal part

 

 

 

i made up a stoper plate and welded that on

 

 

 

couldnt find what i realy wanted to but ended up welding on a thick support plate and 2 pipes , pretty heavy duty now ,

 

 

had it back in the pedal box all hooked up and fits perfect and works the same as the other pedal, just needs some paint and its that job done :)

 

[chestikoph1]

Looks great Ryan, keep it up mate.

Show quality work..!!!!

[JDM55]

Looks great Ryan, keep it up mate.

Show quality work..!!!!

 

 

haha cheers dude , wasnt planing to go that far but you know how it is,once you get started on something just wana keep building on it, it is coming up pretty nice tho at least on the looks department lol not sure on the mechanical side tho , just had a bit to many dramas and its made me weary of things I'm doing ,i guess only can try and if it doesnt work try again with something different :)

[JDM55]

so work has finished for the year pretty much ,and while every one else is out getting blind and doing what ever with there holiday break ,I'm taking full advantage of the short time away from working my full time job and pumping in some decent hours on the car ,been a very long time since ive been able to get a decent run at it so the next few days will be interesting to see what i can manage to get done :)

 

so first of all today ive gone balls to the ball as usual and jumped straight in to do a few small jobs ,

 

first of all ive connected the coil pack loom back in place and fitted my custom hand made coil pack cover!

can't remember if i talked about this before ,probably some where back threw the mulitipul pages ,and way a small

recap if i didnt , got some 3mm alloy plate and designed like a flame pattern , don't ask why a flame pattern,i realy

have no idea ,it just came to mind and so thats what i went ahead and done, cutting this out was alittle tricky due to

the sharp curves and thin tips , but after it was cut was exstensivley sanded and smoothed up,then followed that with

the usual sanding to polish steps ,and it come up very nice ,and for something totaly unique and no other engine will have,

i think it was a good idea and i done a half decent job of it ,this pic below is from the design stage and choping the

basic shape out

 

i had to work out the mounting side of things as well, ended up just usint the 3 left hand side holes in the cover to mount to,using s/s cap screws,

i love s/s!!! so nice to have decent clean shiney tuff bolts to work with,mind you ive tryed my best to replace every bolt with s/s but the price of the

stuff soon adds up , you wouldnt believe how much a bunch of s/s bolts cost,even so its made the engine and the car for that matter look so much neater ,

plus the colour against the s/s bolts looks magic :)

 

so got the cover on and it looks great ! plus since its not sealed in like the factory one it should help let the heat out of the coil packs ....

 

[JDM55]

another small job was filling the gear box with oil, fresh oil after so long ,was great to get that in there and then from there,ive replaced the small cover that covers the gearbox hole and fitted a new gearknob and then replace the gear stick ,also using the 55 original rubber boot to seal things off ,

 

 

 

the next one was a hell of alot harder, i got a oil relocation kit along time ago,after alot of research on the subject,the idea behind it is good,any one with an sr will know that the filter on the block would be a pain in the ass to say the least to change so the idea of having it easy to get to is pretty good how ever.......

 

just wanta say a few quick words on the kit i got ,now after reading alot of not so nice things about oil relocation kits and cheap ebay ones and problems etc, i decided to try get at least a half decent one,so the kit i got was a circuit sports one for s13 ,this cost me around 200 or so after shipping from america,so a few wack of cash for just a little part, any way a quick look at what you get is the oil block the filter block and 2 meaty hoses ,plus a few adaptors,any one thinking of gettng some thing like this , so far a can recommend this one,but its yet to be tested with oil running thru it ,and thats a bit of a concern ,but ill get to that in a sec,

just want to explain a bit about the thing, first of all its machined alloy , very high quaility indeed , the fitting that go in to the block are allso alloy and have crush washers , there is 2 small ports on the side of the filter block for gauge senders ,which ill be using one for my oil pressure sender, the bracket that the filter block mounts to is very good , probably steel with a chrome like coating but whats cool about it is the filter block is designed to be mounted in multipul positions ,using the same bracket and 2 cap screws. the filter that fits on this one has to be a s14 filter , not sure why but thats how it is, the s14 filter is bloody small,

not sure if thats a bad thing ,tho it looks nice in the engine bay not being all bulky,but it is very small,

next the hoses, top quaility braided hoses with massive chunky swivel type fittings on the ends, there like a 26 mm spanner size or somethings very large,

the next is the block that goes onto the engine , again realy high quaility machining and the same alloy fittings ,

 

now the not so good side , this thing was f$%#$#%#$$%$$## hard to fitt, not so much the product it self but the fact that where it sitts in my car its rediculously tight to every thing!! now trying to get a 26mm plus spanner in to a tiny gap is not an easy task, luckily i fitted the oil block on to the engine first then put the engine in, you would think that that would make life easyier wouldnt you........ well what i should have done ,now that i just went thru a very long process to tighten up the hoses, was attach the hoses to the block and then attach the block to the engine, yes i see that now ,

was very hard trust me, once the hose was tightened the more i tryed to tighten it , the pressure would turn the oil block and it would want to undo of the engine , dosent sould like a big deal ,but i thought i had it on there pretty dam tight , how ever fitting the hoses and getting them tight and trying to not let the oil block turn at the same time ,turned into a 3 spanner exercise ,with a mate trying to hold one down while i blindly tryed to tighting things up,

any way lesson learned , again ..... so got there in the end , but I'm not convinced at this stage that the block it self is on the engine tight enuff,due to it wanted to undo ,just felt like it wanted to be a bit tighter , problem was ,to get a spanner onto the block it was a 32mm size , and thats a big ass spanner, so there was no room to turn the spanner let alone get it onto the block properly :( guess time will tell, but certainly have strong doutbs on it being sealed properly

any way its on there now and i mounted the filter block in a easy to get to spot with the hoses not touching any thing or having any great stress from the bends.

 

So all in all i would recommend this kit ,due to its quality parts and finish , but would 100 percent recommend fiting the hoses to the block then the block to the engine ,

 

any way bla bla bla just wanted to share my experience with that now heres some pics

 

 

[SLO-030]

Wow Ryan. Things just keep getting better and better!

 

Keen to see what you can get done in your time off :yes:

[JDM55]

Wow Ryan. Things just keep getting better and better!

 

Keen to see what you can get done in your time off :yes:

 

 

:) Cheers man ,it is looking pretty good , just starting to do alot of little jobs ,try and get all the smaller things out of the was first.

[JDM55]

so done a few little things today, first was earth cables from engine to the chassis, ive done a bit of reserching on this, and i found out

most stock engines have very poor earth cables, in fact i still had one of them taken off the back of the engine, it was tiny little strap

that looked like it was made of steel braid,any way aperantly these sorts of straps don't do a very good job of earthing at all,

something about the ecu needing solid ground points to the engine to get maximum voltage ,allowing it to run alot better.

 

Also i read that stereo power cables that are used for powering amps work better than the thicker stranded earth cables ,the finer strands

of the stereo cable offer less resistance and flow the power better,along those lines any way,so i thought id go over board with the earth leads,

went and got a few meters of 4 gauge power cable and a bunch of gold ring connector thingos and made up 5 earth cables ,

yes probably over board but thought it would help,

 

one from the left side of the engine to the chassis like this ::

 

 

then one from the starter motor bolt to the chassis

another from the alternator casing to the chassis

another from the inlet manifold to the chassis

and one from the top rear of engine to the fire wall

 

lol over board but in theroy it will help make the whole electrical system run well, guess we will see.....

 

another small job was i fitted the oil pressure sender to the oil relocation plate,got that screwed in and sealed and

fitted some wires to it,

 

[JDM55]

i like this pic::::

 

 

 

so i had to put the bonnet and guards back on to see how much room under the bonnet i had to play with for an idea i had been thinking about for a while,

but more on that in a second,

 

with the bonnet back on it ment that i could adjust up the bonnet catch,so when ahead and got that sorted,

 

 

 

then because the catch was on and all lined up i could figure out how to do the bonnet release cable, in the factory set up they go from the fire wall in to the engine bay and up and out to the catch, how ever i had loss the original holes in the fire wall where the cable used to come from, due to the strenghting braces,

so i drilled a hole just to the right of where the original hole in the fire wall was ,this made the cable go out under the guard area :) drilled another hole in the front panel and took the cable and hooked it up,and it works perfectly :) trying to keep as much stuff out of the engine bay as i can cause got alot of stuff going in there.

 

haha the under the bonnet is so glossy it reflects the whole engine bay in it :)

 

 

 

lol when i look at my daily 55 engine bay ,i still can't believe i turned that :::

 

 

 

 

in to this :::

 

 

 

:) :) :)

[JDM55]

so i had been thinking about having gas struts to hold up the bonnet instead of the metal pole thing, but i didnt want to weld up anything in the engine bay so a bolt on solution seemed like the best way to go,there wasnt realy enough room on the inside edge of the guards to put gas struts there,so after a bit of designing and think bout it i cam up with an idea that just mite work and be completly removable if it didnt work of for what ever reason i wanted to remove them,

 

the basic idea is to have some brackets attached to the bonnet hinges and some sort of bracket on the shock towers,theres a tiny bit of room either side the strut brace that could have held a strut,any way after designing i went ahead and cut out some brackets :::

 

 

 

 

can see the holes for the shock bolts and the small bent up piece is to take a ball head bolt that the strut holds onto

 

 

 

 

the funny looking sticking out part on the left hand one is for a engine brace :::

 

 

after much stuffing around and taking them off and back on again finally worked out where they needed to be and how to make them work ,don't think there would be many 55s with gas struts on there bonnet haha :)

 

 

 

in this one can see that the plate gets held down by the strut brace, how ever i need longer bolts in that area ,but ill be changing the strut tops to adjustable at some stage so ill sort the longer bolts then,

 

 

 

 

 

 

and look mum no hands!!!! :P

 

Edited December 25, 2011 by JDM55