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Shutting Up Your Exhaust Temporarily

Featured Replies

here is what i was told by the owner of an exhaust shop in ascot:

 

things you need:

tin snips

metal sheet

piece of wood around 20x20cm or more

drill and drill set

artliner

spanners

money

 

1.

you start off by measuring your exhaust noise level and comparing it to the levels specified by your state, and find out how many DB you need to drop.

each of the plates that i made take off around about 5 DB depending on the pattern you create so work out how man of these you will need to make

 

2.

un-bolt your rear most exhaust flange and remove the gasket, take that to an exhaust shop and get 2 new ones for every plate your making (if your gasket is in good condition you will only need 1 new one)

 

 

 

3.

get a sheet of 1-2mm of tin/steel/whatever you can get your hands on and lay the gasket down on it and outline the gasket.

once this is done plot out where you are going to put the holes, i used 12mm one in middle and lots of 6mm holes around it, it dropped 8Db.

REMEMBER TO NOT RESTRICT THE FLOW TOO MUCH

 

post-6811-1256266853_thumb.jpg

 

4.

place the sheet down on the piece of wood and get the drill with drill bit and put your feet as close to the holes you are drilling as possible to stop the metal from pulling up.

start drilling the holes!

 

post-6811-1256267273_thumb.jpg

 

5.

once all the holes are there and your happy with the pretty pattern you made get out the tin snips and cut out the plate

 

post-6811-1256267334_thumb.jpg

 

6.

sandwich the plate you have just made in between the flange gaskets and put it in place and torque down those bolts

 

 

 

 

DO NOT PUT ON RIGHT AFTER EXTRACTORS

On my bluey with 3 inch fully flanged exhaust, I had a 1 3/4 muffler with a peashooter fabbed up for 90 bucks that I could just swap across for the old roadworthy trick. 15 minutes to change.

 

Quiet as and slow as hell.

Yeah thats fine and yes it works but try to find an approved noise level

tester that will pass it. Most of them check for this sort of fix

  • Author

works hell well aye, took mine down about 8 dbA and is reusable, takes 2 mins to replace and cost me nothing because i knew a guy in an exhaust shop and got the flange gaskets for free :lolcry:

but yeh they sell for about 5-10 bux and cheap tin from bunning is like 10 per metre

 

it take 5 mins to make if you know what pattern you want, make several patterns and find out which works best for your system

i heard steel wool works well, add steel wool before the cheese grater to get it even more quiter?

  • Author
Yeah thats fine and yes it works but try to find an approved noise level

tester that will pass it. Most of them check for this sort of fix

 

 

thats a load of crock!

 

ive talked to both the exhaust shop owner and the engineer who passed my car with one on it, they both liked the idea and had no problem with it

it is a legal way of silencing your system so there is nothing they can say about it

 

ken go ahead with this as its WAY more legal then steel wool and all these other dodgy fixes, if you make one that is not restrictive then you can leave it in if you felt like it.

 

these work by collapsing the pressure wave that comes from your cylinder, you don't need it to be restrictive to make it work

it only needs to have a collapsing effect

 

the more small holes you have the better it will work,

altho a few big hole can also work in certain patterns, like 6 around the outside and one in the middle.

  • Author

oh and even i wouldnt add steel wool as it burns at a fairly low temp, it will melt as soon as they do the test and the varying result will give them something to worry about and if they find it then they will get pissed and fail you.

 

this idea is tried and tested and passes inspection without a problem

ahk, we had a bloke from tafe with a au xr8 tickford and it the max db we got was 116 LOL! he was gonna try chicken wire/steel wool. but gave up and got a cat back system for $250

thats a load of crock!

 

ive talked to both the exhaust shop owner and the engineer who passed my car with one on it, they both liked the idea and had no problem with it

it is a legal way of silencing your system so there is nothing they can say about it

 

ken go ahead with this as its WAY more legal then steel wool and all these other dodgy fixes, if you make one that is not restrictive then you can leave it in if you felt like it.

 

these work by collapsing the pressure wave that comes from your cylinder, you don't need it to be restrictive to make it work

it only needs to have a collapsing effect

 

the more small holes you have the better it will work,

altho a few big hole can also work in certain patterns, like 6 around the outside and one in the middle.

 

 

This is not a legal fix in Vic. A removable silencer or baffle is not accepted for noise level testing.

And anything put into an exhaust that partially affects the flow is a restriction.

Big lump steel wool soaked in kero.... Shove it up the muffler.... do a keybanger..... see what happens :lolcry:

 

Disclaimer: Don't do that ^^^

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Butreallydoitcositshilarious

And anything put into an exhaust that partially affects the flow is a restriction.

 

Really?!?!

This is not a legal fix in Vic. A removable silencer or baffle is not accepted for noise level testing.

And anything put into an exhaust that partially affects the flow is a restriction.

 

Not trying to stir anything up but more just a question regarding what you have said there.

 

Would the baffle be classed as non-removable as it is actually fixed into the exhaust system? I mean, the only way it can be removed is if you unbolt the flanges and drop it out, so in which case, wouldn't any legal muffler/silencer be classed the same? What's stopping you from rocking up to the test with a say stock rear section of a standard exhaust system, then, getting it passed and swapping it out for straight pipes? :lolcry:

 

 

I am probably wrong, but yeah, just something that was on my mind :lolcry:

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