KEI069 Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Nice plans champ, sounds like you already know what youre doing without the opinions of others. good luck with the project. I reckon the diff is a good idea too, i used to run a T series diff in my KE10 just so i didnt have to change any more axles, plus the benefit of a more accesible lsd. The brake lines are often overlooked, its actually very surprising how much firmer the pedal feels. All the best with the build Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flat out Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 great plans, i went from ke55/70 brakes and struts to ta22, ke struts had good rotors and new pads, ta22 ones have rotors that are ready for the bin and very average pads, stops way better still, maybe look into a coil over sleeve kit, its obvious you have your head screwed on and for 300$ with any spring rate you wish it makes sence, don't listen to all the negative people on here, its school holidays so there's plenty about. i had a t series diff in my ke55, basically all ta22 running gear for that matter, brakes seem to be the same size as ke55 but, lsd is also a very easy find, my sugestion would be to go ra23-40 diff and struts, struts have bigger brakes and diff has bigger axles, good luck with your build and i look forward to seeing the build up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tojo2 Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Hey guys, as some of you know I recently bought my girlfriend a 4-speed '81 KE55. Mechanically it's in good condition but body needs a bit of love. Over the next year or so I wish to slowly upgrade bits that need doing without going overkill - no EFI conversions, no major changes, just little bits to make it just that much better to drive. It's only every going to be a daily so there's no need for super everything. I'm also aiming to do all the work myself for as cheap as possible, sure I could pay somebody to do stuff but there's absolutely no fun in that. Once the body has been tidied up (bit of rust to remove + a respray), I was aiming for the following. Front Brakes *TA22 struts *2.5" lowered springs *TA22 steering arms *New pads + discs *Stainless brake lines *Whiteline 20mm swaybar Driveline *K50 conversion (for now). *Lightened flywheel *Slightly upgraded clutch Diff/rear brakes/suspension *T series conversion *Inverted leaf eyes *Leaves reset to match front height. *Whiteline 16mm swaybar *Stainless lines Miscellaneous *15" Superlites (or similar) *Rebuilt bigger MC (Camry?) *Complete Superpro bushing kit. *Eventually going for a warmed 5K conversion, won't be till down the track though. What are your thoughts? There's a bit of stuff I'm not too sure about (mainly front brakes), everything else I think I should be able to tackle myself. Looks like a god setup / upgrade. Couple of things Id do diffrently though. MB Id go for a ta22 item as it would suit the calipers and cylinders. don't go to big as it will give you a hard pedal with no feel Diff: If you go T diff you will need a coustomised tailshaft as well. Might cost a bit. (shortened and balanced- tailshaftflange to suit diff..) as for stainless steel lines , they made a huge improvement on my bike brakes. Much firmer. Poly bushes make a big difference to handeling as well. Worth it to get a wheelalignment when your finished with your steering and suspention mods as well If you use a 4k flywheel and clutch, thats about 2kg lighter than the 5k stuff . Good luck on your mods - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob83ke70 Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 if you are keeping a 4k engine in it, I would be very hesitant to do anything that involves an increase in weight especially the unsprung kind of weight.... ie, with a 4k (or even a 5k) the most I'd do to the brakes is make sure the booster works, new brake fluid, maybe new brake lines, slotted front rotors and *maybe* bendix ultimate brake pads (use vn commodore rear pads) and ke55 import drums on the rear, new shoes, everything adjusted right..... we are umming and ahhing over a t50 in order to get nicer gear sets and ratios.... we have a ke55 race car. Still not quite sure, it might be just as easy to get a special gear set made for a k50 anyway, and it would be lighter. its all about keeping the weight to a minimum if you can. Kylie hasn't managed to boil the fluid or experience any brake problems with stock as a rock brakes on the ke55, a worked 4k and several races (supersprints, hillclimbs, descents, khanacrosses, motorkhanas etc) Robert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob83ke70 Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 swaybars and lowering a bit would be really good along with new bushes. and I reckon any corolla I own from now on would be worth lightening the flywheel it makes that much of a difference ;) Robert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corollaart Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Another advantage to go t series diff that you get a bolt rear disc converstion. Grab rear brakes off a 141 or 142 advanti (corona)must be live axle model. Make sure you get axles as well be cause you need the axle retaining plate, not the axles. I would say your plan sounds good ,your got the skills go for it ;) :lolcry: rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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