As long as all the seall can hold the boost pressure, i think.......Si, where are ya bud?

Blow through will usually need the carby completely boxed in, unless it is a forced intended carby?

 

Or are webbers exempt?

 

 

no boxed in carbys is old school and not needed, as long as you run a rising rate fuel reg and add 1psi of fuel pressure to every 1psi of boost pressure your fine. webers also have a plastic float which helps, metal floats tend to crush around 15psi. all the gaskets and so forth in the carby are fine with boost as its no different to the gasket on the intake manifold. so basically all i need to do is change the secondary jet so its big enough to supply enough fuel and away you go.

i have had mates use the standard corolla carbys and they work well just after about 6 months you need to replace the rubber boot on the pump plunger as they eventually split from the boost pressure. blow through turbos are starting to really get popular i have a mate that has a 408ci capri with blowthrough gt47 and it made 1100rwhp on pump fuel and its still a street car

As long as all the seall can hold the boost pressure, i think.......Si, where are ya bud?

 

toowoomba QLD

cool, good to hear, should be fun little budget build.

extractors and youll be loving life.... nice job too man!!!! thumbs up

toowoomba QLD

 

Think he may have meant me. :hmm:

 

Blow through will usually need the carby completely boxed in, unless it is a forced intended carby?

 

Or are webbers exempt?

 

"Ned's helmet" as it was effectionally known was just a bit of an easy way out in my setup. It wasn't 100% neccessary but was just the easiest way at the time. Other things then got updraged around it but "Ned's helmet" stayed. It did probably cost a little bit of top end as the air flow would have swirled through it.

As sleepy said it you can seall it all up well then that will do. Also keep in mind that you can upgrade the needle and seat to a bigger Falcon weber one, they're interchangable.

Oh and speaking of N&S's yours should hold 12'ish PSI before its busted open at idle.

 

What are you going to do about an exhaust manifold?

Think he may have meant me. :blinks:

 

 

 

"Ned's helmet" as it was effectionally known was just a bit of an easy way out in my setup. It wasn't 100% neccessary but was just the easiest way at the time. Other things then got updraged around it but "Ned's helmet" stayed. It did probably cost a little bit of top end as the air flow would have swirled through it.

As sleepy said it you can seall it all up well then that will do. Also keep in mind that you can upgrade the needle and seat to a bigger Falcon weber one, they're interchangable.

Oh and speaking of N&S's yours should hold 12'ish PSI before its busted open at idle.

 

What are you going to do about an exhaust manifold?

 

 

can't beat the j pipe for a manifold

Think he may have meant me. :blinks:

 

:lolcry:

can't beat the j pipe for a manifold

Price wise maybe..... my manifold was over $700!! :blinks:

 

Saying that though it far and away so much better than a J pipe.

 

Also (second time I've told somebody this in the last week), if I were to build another J-pipe setup I would seriously consider actually getting it professionally (cause of cast steel) welded to the KE70 manifold. The gaskets always burn out far to quick and the bolts rattle then selves loose. I used some cone-locker nuts once but they just destroyed the thread on the studs when you still had to change a gasket. In terms of installation and removal, it was always much easier to take the manifolds and j-pipe out together so this wouldn't be an issue.

Another benefit of doing this is you can actually significantly increase flow though the flange area of the KE70 mani. The gasket ID is like 1 inch even though the "collector" is around 1.5-2". My last j-pipe was like 1.75", so you end up with 2">1">1.75". Removing the gasket altogether and opening the flange ID up to the diametre of the j-pipe would make a huge difference in flow and response.

Edited March 3, 201016 yr by Taz_Rx

Price wise maybe..... my manifold was over $700!! :yes:

 

Saying that though it far and away so much better than a J pipe.

 

Also (second time I've told somebody this in the last week), if I were to build another J-pipe setup I would seriously consider actually getting it professionally (cause of cast steel) welded to the KE70 manifold. The gaskets always burn out far to quick and the bolts rattle then selves loose. I used some cone-locker nuts once but they just destroyed the thread on the studs when you still had to change a gasket. In terms of installation and removal, it was always much easier to take the manifolds and j-pipe out together so this wouldn't be an issue.

Another benefit of doing this is you can actually significantly increase flow though the flange area of the KE70 mani. The gasket ID is like 1 inch even though the "collector" is around 1.5-2". My last j-pipe was like 1.75", so you end up with 2">1">1.75". Removing the gasket altogether and opening the flange ID up to the diametre of the j-pipe would make a huge difference in flow and response.

 

yeh I'm going to use a ke70 manifold and open the hole up slightly, I'm on a budget build so not going to the trouble of making a complete manifold

have made the exhaust 2 1/2 inch all the way to where the dump pipe will go, this is a picture of the piece over the diff. i scored the muffler for free and i think i used 4 90 degree bends and some left over straight pipe i had lying around so all up the exhaust cost me about $60