Taz_Rx Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Are they actually for a rolla..... or are they just commo pads though? Great to see somebody making some decent pads if so..... mind you most people will just upgrade the brakes anyway. Can you put up some prices for what you have available please? I actually only just priced some commo bendix's at Bursons earlier in the week! I only want something for 1-2 track days and then I'll also be upgrading to something with 4 pistons per caliper. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shauns ke30 Posted February 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 (edited) thanks's taz_rx ill keep it in mind when hooking up the brake lines :wink: Evan thanks for the pic :( i have a stock 5k in the ke30 and stock sumi's calipers!!!! yeah these brakes can pull a 5k up :yes: but worked 5k and girlocks calipers with vn bendix Ultimates mmmmmm even better :( cheers shaun OH and thanks for the links gslrallysport Edited February 11, 2010 by shauns ke30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gslrallysport Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 (edited) Are they actually for a rolla..... or are they just commo pads though? Nup, will be actual Rolla pads. We can get any pad made up in any compound. Either we'll have it on the shelf, or can get made in a shot time frame. QFM isn't like the big boys where they only focus on dollars and make pads for the popular cars, and neglect the rest. Can you put up some prices for what you have available please? - QFM HPX (Bendix Ultimate equivalent but very low dust and rotor wear) $79 per axle set - A1RM A1RM (Ferodo DS2500 or Bendix SRT equivalent) $119 per axle set - QFM Comp 9 (Ferodo DS3000 equivalent) $179 per axle set With regards to KExx and their 3 front pads: DB37 http://www.bendix.com.au/user_uploaded_fil...images/DB37.gif DB87 http://www.bendix.com.au/user_uploaded_fil...images/DB87.gif DB1088 http://www.bendix.com.au/user_uploaded_fil...ages/DB1088.gif We've got DB87 on the shelf in HPX. HPX in the other 2, and all 3 in A1RM or Comp 9 would be made on order. Prices as per above, and allow 3-4 weeks for manufacture. Once we've sold more than 2 of a particular pad in a particular compound it becomes a stocked item for us, so then pads would be available off the shelf for next time. I only want something for 1-2 track days and then I'll also be upgrading to something with 4 pistons per caliper The majority of pads are as per the above pricing. A1RM is by far and away the most popular street/track cross over pad, and most of the popular calipers would be straight off the shelf. Regards, Greg Edited February 12, 2010 by gslrallysport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono1986 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 How bout if you've upgraded to girlocks, is it better to put the matching rotor in or is the thickness alright to run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 If you had sumitomos then you have JDM discs. Girlocks are ADM and have a discs which are 1mm thicker than the JDM's. 12mm vs 13mm from memory. If your current discs are good then I wouldn't worry about it. When/if you ever do want new rotors then get some ADM ones then. :dance: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blktoy35 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 i have a ke35 4age small port powered, with stock jap rotors/sumitomo calipers!...... for day to day driving it pulls up pretty good... but they get quite hot even with normal driving.... i was thinking of getting the adm discs and getting them cross drilled ..... u guys wreckon it will hold up and disipate the heat better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Hold up - Nope. Cross-drilling also weakers rotors. Dissapate heat - Yeah a little bit Considering you've upgraded your go, personally I think you should also upgrade your woh! Upgrading to a bigger discs like corona/cressida/whatever will probably dissapate more heat that cross-drilling the stock ones will..... and then you also have the upgraded clamping force of the bigger caliper that goes with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blktoy35 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 (edited) upgrading front end is obvious ...but i have just replaced struts/springs/pads/brake lines recently ,Stuff i collected up over the yrs.. i happen to have some discs which are like new.... i was thinking off getting them cross drilled and putting them on for a while.... Edited April 22, 2010 by blktoy35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverra23 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Cross drilled rotors often crack prematurely. Have seen a number of examples on different forums over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blktoy35 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 (edited) no kidding just googled it saw alot of instances where hairline cracks occured after a track day! they were cross drilled vented items.....i will still give it a go for experimental purposes maybe the solid discs will hold up lol Edited April 22, 2010 by blktoy35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twinspinna Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Nah you don't need the backing plates. bolt spacing and everything is the same. One thing that is different between the sumi and Girlock caliper though is the end of the brake line where it goes into the caliper. One has a normal flair and the other has an inverted flair. If you try and screw the wrong one in tight you'll actually crack the casting of the caliper like I once did!! :laff: the backing plates (if greased when put back in) stop squealing noises occuring. so you know when they do start to squeal they need replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
towe001 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 I wouldn't even bother with experimenting . Not worth the money in trying it. I can't even see the point of cross-drilling a non-vented disc - time and money for very little if any gain. From what i know about cross-drill rotors is to open up the area between the disc and the pad so that the pads can be cleaned every time their pressed to the rotor, remove the brake dust and to stop the build up of gas which get vented into the centre of the rotor. About the only thing that'd be happening is the cleaning of the pads. A better shot would be slotted rotors - does about the same job as drilled, can be used on non-vented rotors and less prone to cracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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