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5k Recon Engine Possible Modifications


Scott_87

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Ok as the title says I have a 5k newly recon motor in the KE70.

 

Current mods: extractors, 36/32 carbie, 5 speed box and exhaust system

 

I'm hoping the get more power out of my car but to also learn more about my car and cars in general. I've read the how to build a tuff k motor and it goes in to great detail of the amounts of possibilities I have to which I can do.

 

I was hoping some1 could tell me that something a novice could do to my internals to gain that bit more out of my motor?

 

Sorry about the layout of the post Engrish aint my strength

 

thanks Scott

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the exhaust ports are the biggest restriction in these little heads, taking your time and matching the inlet and exhaust ports on the manifolds and the head makes a huge difference in the engines ability to breath, if your going to the trouble of a camm and head shave try bigger valves as well, you'll have it screaming in no time.....

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cam, ports, valves, roller rockers, forged and balanced bottom end, light flywheel, twin clutch. At that point you'll find it starving for fuel at around 7500rpm. DUEL WEBBERS and fuel pump. Then you'll see 9000rpm.

 

I also heard that if you go around with a hammer and beat your car till it resembles golf ball it will have less wind resistance and go faster. no liability accepted

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roller rockers, twin clutch.

 

Lolz. Unnessecary, its only a K engine, its not going to be making 200hp or more.

 

For stuff you can do yourself, shim oil pump, install bigger cam, bolt shaved (and maybe ported) head on.

I wouldn't be attempting porting yourself without extensive knowledge, start on a cracked head if you want to give it a go.

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I wouldn't be attempting porting yourself without extensive knowledge, start on a cracked head if you want to give it a go.

 

Nothing stopping you giving the ports a clean up and deburring the factory casting marks. Just don't try to reshape things or you may actually end up making less power.

 

By all means you can attempt to match port the inlet manifold, and polish the exhaust ports (leave inlet ports a roughish finish). Don't worry about match porting the exhaust ports to the extractors. Ideally the extractor entry should be larger than the exhaust ports, to help minimize exhaust reversion contaminating the incoming air/fuel charge.

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LOL yeah sorry guys forgot to add I'm a big time novice, all this time about ports and replacing cams goes over my head. knowing what they are is one thing but then knowing where and how to replace upgrade is another.

 

I wanna attempt myself to save and learn about the car but when I say learn I mean from get go as is never ever seen inside a motor. Also Being a recon motor is it worth trying to clean ports and valves up?

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Changing a camshaft is a fairly involved job but needs to be done

if your looking for power. get a hold of a repair manual and have a

read. if you go done this path it might be worth getting your

distributor regraphed to suit.

Working over the ports does help but not really necessary,

but when you start chasing power even the small things make

a difference.

 

Good luck with the build mate.

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Alrighty then,

 

You've got a recon engine, I would advise you to stay well clear of pulling the head off; if it's freshly rebuilt, as soon as you pull a head off you'll need a new head gasket and head skimmed. Leave it for the moment.

 

Felix is dead right, the best place to start is with a camshaft change. You've got the exahust and extractors, so the next logical step is a mild-warm street grind.

 

1- Hydraulic lifters or Solids? You'll need to identify them, if you don't know, speak up. It's not that hard to tell.

 

2- Find a spare camshaft and lifters to match; you'll need to know which of the above you have and get the right one.

 

3- Research cams, there's lots of great info on them on the internet. Get familiar with the following terms; lift, duration, overlap etc. Once you've done that, there's a bunch of discussion on the Rollaclub about what grinds work for corollas.

 

4- Decide which sounds right for you, call the Cam grinder (Tighe, Wade etc), send your cam and lifters to them. Wait a couple of weeks, check letterbox.

 

So far you've only spent ~150 bucks tops, and you're a bit more well read

 

5- Time to bite the bullet; To swap a cam isn't that hard, but I wont go into that now. A workshop manual will give you loads of info. Even a beginner should manage to swap a cam in a weekend, and as long as you check and double check, it's pretty hard to get it wrong.

 

When you get to 5, let us know. Changing a cam, from my point of view, is the best option now, because you can get big gains without too much intrusive work. Head work is a waste of time with a stock camshaft and will be much more expensive.

Edited by philbey
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