Twinky Posted May 14, 2010 Report Share Posted May 14, 2010 (edited) Thought I'd start a thread for the beast now that it is starting to gain momentum. Picked her up a few months back and have been fixing it ever since Hence the name moocher.... Cause she definately does not pay the bills.... When I initially got her she was running ok but started to wear out over time. Almost like it had a cosmetic makeover before I bought her Seems as though it has had a 3kbp head slaped on and very poorly bolted on manofolds that did not suit... I found out that the bolts that were used bottomed out before they even tensioned the manifold. So basically done so far is: Changed fluids Spark plugs Ignition leads Points Rotor cap Coil Timing adjust Head pulled apart and cleaned up Non existing valve stem seals replaced with 4k-c ones Valves laped in Gasket kit to reseal engine Ke35 chrome bumpers Ke35 front grille (yet to be put on) Jelly bean mags Wash Vacuum Kick the tyre when I get bored...... New boot lid to replace dented one New front right 1/4 panel Paint to spray said panels Current Tasks: Adapt quad carbies Weld up a new exhaust manifold Edited June 16, 2012 by Twinky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted May 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2010 Progress on the Quads. I have cut up a donor manifold as the face for the new manifold. Welded on with blu-tac Partially lined up More to be done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted July 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Ok time for a quick update. Quad carbies are on hold untill I can get some sort of steel intake plate because welding the alloy plate is doable but quite tedious. Anyhows i contacted Crow Cams and they said they can do a 606 grind for $100. Dayam thats cheap. Only they said I have to supply my own billet in a good condition. Does that mean a camshaft or an actual piece of billet steel? I didn't want to ask them to sound stuipid. Got my Electronic Distributor from KE Motorsport, Looks the goods and the bloke definately knows his Corollas. Will be installing it tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 How thick do you need the steel intake plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted July 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Probably around the 8mm mark in mild steel, even 10mm should be fine. I might not go down the quad carby road, the bloke from KE Motorsport has been putting AMR500 ideas into my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 I can get either, if your still keen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted July 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Yeah I'm still keen. Also you wouldn't happen to know what they mean when thay say I have to supply my own billet for a camshaft grind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Dunno mate. The $100 sounds about right for a regrind. I'd assume its a stocker camshaft in good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted July 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Quick question. How the hell do I remove the thrust bearing on the camshaft??? Do I have to disconnect anything from the rear of the engine?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted July 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Ok never mind me it was my own stuipid fault I could not get it out, it's out now and will be on the way to Crow Cams shortly. Omg Omg Omg!! My engine now runs PERFECTO! It is seriously amazing and actually has some poke in it, I have fallen in love again. After all my troubles everything has now been sorted out. Finally!!! The electronic distributor that KE Motorsport sells is a must have! Also I must stress how important valve clearances are, it only took me 20 mins to check and adjust and not when the thing is idling I can't even hear the engine from the cabin! Amazing! I'm absolutely stoked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted September 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 (edited) Well It's been a little while since anything has happened but the old girl has now become the pride and joy money pit. Just yesterday I picked up a 5k and it is now awaiting a freshening up before it goes in. The other day I went out to u-pull it at Elizabeth and was fortunate enough to stumble upon the only ke55/30 in the lot. It was even the same colour scheme as mine so away I went picking off some bits and pieces that I needed. The thing I hate about u pull it is the arseholes that rip shit off without regard as to who might want other bits, such as the chrome trimmings, some f@$kwit bent one in half, the one that I wanted. My old fart only had the cloth trim seats, the car at u pull it had the vynil seats but ofcourse, probably the same f@$kwit, dumped some drum brakes and tyres on them and scratched/messed up the trim. But luckily for me it wasn't too bad, better than the dogg eaten rear seats that came with my car. The surprising thing was that the steering wheel was left in there, it was a twincam steering wheel! Awesome. I have to say that it fits really well and it is actually comfortable to drive now. I am not a short person so getting in and out of a 55 is a right pain in the arse as the original steering wheel sits too low and my legs hit it. The twincam wheel actually sits a bit further out so my legs now clear it! The only downer about it is that the indicator switches can't be reached without taking my hand off the steering wheen, which i don't mind doing. But the wheel gives you a better sense of controll and stability, maybe because its a little thicker and heavier. Also the twincam gearknob fits on the shaft, looks a million bucks. On another story I have aquired a set of rims that originally come off the Triumph models sutch as the stag and 2.5 PI, TC series. This is the image link to the exact rims http://classic-car.y2u.co.uk/Photo_caq/Triumph_Stag_Sports_Car_1975.jpg The offset is okay and the stud pattern is right at 4x114.5 but the only negative is that the wheel nuts are not common. They are and imperial thread for one and the stem + washer are mutch thicker. So I'm getting some machined and plated at $10.60 per nut which is pretty cheap but then again I need 16 nuts. It still ends up cheaper than buying new tyres as the rims come with fresh rubber and they didn't cost me a cent because I pillaged them from my father in laws spare parts car. Next to come will be to lower it, I was thinking of adding more leafs to the stack rather than an axle tramping lowering block. If that does not seem feasable I might give industrial springs a ring and see if i can get a lowering set made. For the fron I have heard that people chop down falcon springs, is this correct? Seems a little dodgey to me as the spring would foul on the strut top, so it might be another industrial springs job. One thing that I have learnt with the 4k is that you shouldn't follow factory specs when it comes to the rocker/valve clearances. When I initially set everything to factory spec the enine did run well but had that definitive sound of the valves clanging. I traced that down to the exhaust valves, because factory specs says they should have more clearance for thermal expansion. Anyhow I set them all to what the intake valve clearances should be but the motor still had a faint clanging that could still be heard from inside the cabin. So I had a talk with a toyota mechanic and he said to just set them all to 2 thou, which is a bit thinner than factory specs on the intake valve. Still had a tiny clang so I just set them all to 1 thou and the engine runs with no noise! Another problem that I have come across is that my 4k has started to eat some oil, and i mean it gets hungry. You can smell it in the exhaust. Would this bee a sighn of worn rings? I have been giving the engine a bit more stick since I got it running properly, I can't say how high in the rpm range I flog it because I have no guage. Some oil has come out of the spark plug seals so i think maybe a little too mutch poke has been applied. Anyhow the motor still runs as good as when I fixed it. One odd thing is that it has started to sound like a rotary when it is warming up on choke. At first it runns smooth and then about 30 seconds later it starts to go brup brup brup brup like an off it's tits rotary but black smoke comes out the exhaust. I push the choke back in and then it runs right again and no more smoke or lumpy idle. Could this be that the carby is running rich? Should I play with the idle screw when it starts to brup brup? So anyhows I will be re spraying the car in it's original colour just to freshen up the look. I'm thinking of taking of the stupid plactic strips down the sides and doing some sort of suttle black pinstripes but I'm unsure of where to do it, just to break up the look. More updates will be coming as things happen. Pics soon when my internets start working properly on the 7th. cheers Edited September 30, 2010 by Twinky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted September 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Oh and one more thing, I got a spare 5k head with the motor and it has the prominent ridges on spark plugs 1 & 4. I'm guessing that it was from a dished piston series engine. Also the valve springs are blue in color, are these the holden spring mod thing that people do?? I'll get some pics up soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted October 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Pictures as promised. The seats are a little dirty but should come up nice once they get a proper clean. Still mutch better than the dog chewed look of the old ones. Looks quite nice with the twinky steering wheel and gear knob. Now I just have to find a k50 to make use of that 5 speed knob. This is the spare head with blue valve springs. The lovely new wheels to be put on And lastly my new toy 5k goodness!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddski Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Just as a heads up - and a little too late probably... Wheel nuts to suit the old Stag rims (I have some as well from Triumph days) - do you still have some old wheel nuts for the AE82 Twin Cam alloys? Pretty much perfect fit. Cheers, Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Yeah it's too late now, but I think the thickness of the shaft would bo too thin from those alloys. Wouldn't it go on a bit loose? I've ordered and payed for a set now anyway but there is nothing wrong with some shiny new wheel nuts! Should be coming in next week, can't wait to put them on. Cheers anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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