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Twinky's Old Fart [Now Super Dooper Charged]

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Yeah it's too late now, but I think the thickness of the shaft would bo too thin from those alloys. Wouldn't it go on a bit loose?

I've ordered and payed for a set now anyway but there is nothing wrong with some shiny new wheel nuts!

Should be coming in next week, can't wait to put them on.

 

Cheers anyway

 

Seemed right to me, but I'll track down the original Stag nuts (at my Dad's) and grab the calipers and compare shank size to the Twink ones.

 

And nothing wrong with shiny new wheel nuts at all. 8-)

  • 4 weeks later...
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  • I HAAAVVVEEE SSPPPAAAAAAAAAAAARRRKKKKK!!!! YES! f@$kern finally.... It still won't start though..... I've double checked that the timing isn't 180 out so that part is good. Sounds like the timing is

  • Author

Well finally the wheel nuts arrived, fits just like a glove although the offset is not quite right and probably need to sit a little more in.

Some spacers might fix that :). I did end up trying the old twink nuts and yep they did work, they were a tad undersize though, only about 2mm though.

I just bought a ke70 5 speed so that will be going in some time soon. I am going to start making up the intake for the bike carbies aswell as I have bought

the intake flanges from kemotorsport. I just received a quote from Camtech and I have decided to go with the CT003 for the 5k.

 

What could be a common cause for a 4k to eat oil? Could the rings be slightly worn out and passing a tiny amount of oil through?

Basically the exhaust is not really billowing out smoke but you can smell it very well. Could it be something else?

 

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Doing a little engine prep. Going for the rising sun emblem.

Picture002-2.jpg

Need to clear the overspray when it dries enough and do the circle. Other than that progress is low as usual.

Apart from that I have gotten a hold of a KE30 front grille and painted it gloss black. I prefer the look to the original

KE55 grille.

Picture002-3.jpg

 

After quite alot of stuffing about I have decided to go down the supercharger route as in the end it will cost the same amount

to do a carbie + cam build. I was thinking of running the AMR500 at 5psi to begin with. Then maybe decompress the engine and try for the 10psi mark.

All in good time.

Edited by Twinky

  • Author

Thought I might aswell chuck this in here aswell so it does not get lost.

It's my DIY exhaust upgrade for a grand total of $50 at the end of it. (tubes + cannon)

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/43755-diy-exhaust-upgrade/

What it sounds like. I might take another vid from a bit further away to get better sound quality.

 

Here is a simple pod filter mod.

Just use a flat front type of pod filter, drill a hole in the middle for the threaded bolt to go through and your away.

Don't know about any power increase but it sounds nice, well at least I think it does.

hey mate! love the jap flag across the donk a freind of mine has same across the bonnet of his 1600! and as for the grille i have a 55 to but its running a 78 30 grille(my fave) as i think the 55s look chuz?? keep up the pics an info for all of us to see!

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Yay an update! It means I have actually done some work!

I was recently banned from doing any work on the motor a month out from my wedding. Now that is all over with

it is now time to work on the motor again :).

 

I recently sourced a 5 speed from my favourite person (KeMotorsport).

Unfortunately the 5 speed was from a ke70 so the shifter sits back about 90mm requiring a hole to be cut in the tunnel.

All I did was get some tin snips and expand the hole down untill the shifter is clear, then covering up the remainder of the hole

with whatever. The problem with this is that the original gear boot does not fit. So I thought why not make one myself to fit???

So I got some vynil material, using the original boot I was able to copy the shape of the boot by pulling it apart and drawing a stencil.

Then I cut out the stencil leaving plenty of room for stiching. Then you simply pester your mother to sow it up for you because you have the sowing

skill equivalent to that of a hamster.

Picture001-1.jpg

 

And hey presto it is done!

Picture002-1.jpg

 

In the car (with my sterio finally installed :))

I plan to drill a series of holes around the plastic and sew the gearboot on as the clips I used to originally

retain the boot continually fell off.

 

Picture.jpg

 

 

I have also been beavering away on the 5k

Picture003-1.jpg

 

Wait... what the hell is that metal bracket thing doing there???

 

 

Maybe it has something to do with this?

Picture004-1.jpg

 

 

So yes I have finally made up my mind on what I want to do with the thing.

I have realised that by going down the FI route it will end up cheaper and go faster than an NA setup.

I will post up pics and updates on how I get the charger to run with the standard carby and how I set it up.

 

Cheers!

Edited by Twinky

Love the paint work on the 5k, hope its heatproof though otherwise all your hard work will be in vein.

cheers, Crowie

Was your car rolling at 25km/h when you took the Interior shot? :lolcry:

 

I like this thing and where you're going with it. :y:

 

Lovin' the "Rising Star" 5K you're prepping to go in. Should go like Clappers when the Motor and Charger is tuned to 10psi. :yes:

 

Keep it up mate. :)

 

Josh :cool:

  • Author

Cheers guys!Yes the paint is heat proof but only to 288C so the intake manifold might cop a beating from the heat radiating and dissipating from the exhaust manifold.

I'm looking forward to some progress myself, I'm going to get the motor running in the car before I hook up the charger.

My speedo is actually out a little, funny thing is I had the dash apart before and forgot to reset the thing... oops. I'll probably be running around the 6-7psi mark to begin with and see how the motor reacts.

In the future I'd like to de-compress the motor a little and run 12 psi if the charger can handle it. I need to do a little calculation and see what rpm the charger needs to spin at to do that sort of boost.

At 10psi @ 6500 engine rpm the AMR500 needs to spin at 13,000rpm (AMR has a 16000rpm Max) Using a 2:1 ratio. I will probably run a ratio more like 1.75:1, but it all depends on what pulleys I can find at the scrap yard.

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Updates! My friend and I managed to pull the 4k out and replace it with the 5k! woot! Quite alot of pain and spilt gearbox oil but in the end it

is finally in there!! Looks quite nice just sitting there.

Picture001-2.jpg

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But with great success comes great failure. I borked the electronic distributor....

So I'll just have to fork out for a replacement, no way in hell I'm going back to points type ignition..

Picture003-2.jpg

 

And the old trusty 4k! Runs good, might sell it, might not.

Picture004-2.jpg

 

So tomorrow I'll see if I can pick one up and maybe I'll visit u-pull it and see if I can find some pulleys for the supercharger!

 

Hope everyone had a good christmas! I know I did!

  • Author

She lives! Motor runs good and strong, sussed a small leak from the oil filter mount and a slight coolant leak from the lower heater hose and now runs perfect!

It is a definate improvement over the 4k and you can feel that it has more torque down low. You can even launch from second gear! It runs alot smoother and starts easier, just an

overall better motor. Thanks to John from KeMotorsport with great parts and quality advice!

Picture007.jpg

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(yes I can see that the hose for the manifold breather is loose, fixed it after I noticed a rough idle)

 

Now to sort out the booooooost!

Edited by Twinky

  • Author

Update! Spent some more time pillaging U-pull it and found some more pulleys and a belt to run the blower.

Success!! The setup is alot more simple than what I would have thought but it all seems to work very well.

Basically I welded on another pulley to the original AMR500 pulley to change it to a v type belt and also

bringing the charger pulley to alignment because it was about 10mm out. Unfortunately the pulley is about 1mm off centre

which gives a slight wobble. Also what is exaggerating the problem is the fact that one of the bolts mounting the blower is absent.

Need to file off some material before it can be placed. You'll see it in the video.

 

The setup

Picture001-3.jpg

 

The AMR pulley modded for a V belt. The pulley was sourced from a 1988 - 1990's model lancer (the one with EFI) and welded onto the original pulley.

Picture002-5.jpg

 

The tensioner setup was actually the easiest bit. I used the alternator bracket from a 4k along with an idler pulley from a 4k with air conditioning.

Picture003-3.jpg

 

The main pulley off the motor is one of the additional bolt on type pulleys from a 4k with air conditioning.

Picture004-3.jpg

Looking good man.

 

Personally id be having the pulley machined to spin concentric with the blower shaft. Or have the pulled taken off, aligned and re-welded. Probably end up chewing the front bearing in the little AMR

Nice setup man, looks a lot like mine :P

 

To fix my pulley problem, I just removed that additional pulley for the harmonic balancer and sourced a pulley to suit the AMR type pulley. Of course I had to file the inner part of the pulley to fit on the balancer. Also if you decide you want MORE boost, put a smaller pulley on the AMR.

 

Looking forward to seeing it finished, keep up the good work!

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