Twinky Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 So I have recently put the head back on, reset valve clearance, point gap, plugs, wires, rotor, etc etc etc. The compression in the cylinders is about 175 psi in each cylinder The one thing I can not do is check the ignition timing properly because the thing does not want to idle below 1500 rpm. At about that rpm the timing is about 15 degrees BTC and it gets to the factory 8 BTC while on the path to stalling so I am assuming i am in the ball park of decent ignition to get me going. I can drive the thing around but I have only taken it around the block because it is a dog to drive. I can not have the engine running without the choke fully or near fully engaged. Could this problem be carby related? It's not running extremely rich as there is not a trace of black smoke out the tail pipe but it does smell like there is a little bit of unburnt fuel. I have endlessly stuffed around with the idle mixture screw going in 1/4 turn incriments to no avail. Would I be looking at a carby rebuild and try rejetting it? Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 (edited) sounds lean if you have to pull the choke all the way out. screw the carby idle mixture screw in till it starts to run rough then back it off 1/2 a turn Edited June 16, 2010 by Evan G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Does not matter where the srew is in its range still can't have a low idle. I think I'm going to rip apart the carby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 idle cutoff solenoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Blocked jet?? Strip the carb and clean everything to start with. You should be able to set the timing to 8deg with the motor tuned off and it would run fine like that. I think its in the idle circuit of the carb from the sound of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Can someone locate for me the idle cutoff solenoid? How do I set the timing with the engine off?? Would I set No.1 cyl to 8deg BTC and then rotate dizzy untill I hear the spark?? Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropz Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 yeah thats how i set my timing. worked a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Can someone locate for me the idle cutoff solenoid? It is on the carb and has a wire hanging off it. If you forget to plug it in the carb will not supply any fuel on the idle circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Cheers I'll check it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD ke70 Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 It should also CLICK when you apply power to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Finally!!!! It has been a while but the problem has been sorted. I ripped apart the carby and let it soak in petrol for a about 3 weeks..... I then bought a carbie rebuild kit and proceeded to rebuild said carby. But looking over the parts nothing in the carbie was worn.... at all.... all the passages were clear, no scuff marks on the jet or needle valves.... So I thought f@$k this its going to a mechanic. First place that came to mind was Fours n More as they have worked on a previous car of mine. I must recommend them to anyone as he found the problem in less than an hour. There was a dowel missing on the head that supported the manifolds, I didn't think mutch of it at the time because everything else was there and it all sat true. But when you torque it all up the manifolds go slightly askew thus missalighning the manifolds and causing a slight leak. That leak was enough to totaly funk up the runnign of the engine. The carby has been readjusted and the thing runs smoooooth aaaasssss. The head work definately helped. I'm absolutely stoked. ++++ rep to Brenton and all the blokes at Fours n More especially for dealing with a boat anchor of a car. I think it was probably the cheapest car he has ever delt with there considering the type of customers cars that are there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 haha! Well done! Nice to know it is finally sorted. So, dowels are important... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Lol I just snapped off a rocker tower bolt whilst re-tensioning.............. Oh joy........... Off to the wreckers.... Also, is it common for the oil pressure sensor to leak oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Find out if it is the center of the sender unit leaking around the edge, or the thread of the sender unit where it screws in. If its the thread take it out and apply some threadtape, but don't break it off screwing it up. If its the unit itself, time for a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 I fixed the problem, It was the thread leaking. Went to a wrekers and pulled a sensor off another car, looked new too! no scuff marks, no oil, no discolouration. The car is now oil leak free!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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