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Jordains 69 Rolla.


Jordain

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That's looking nice man

 

What's the reason for the stockies on the back?

 

I'll be doing a 2tg/ 3tg conversion on my ke10 eventually but mine'll be turbo

 

Will you be upgrading your brakes and diff?

 

 

- Jono

I would have stockies all round but the stockies don't fit on the front of the car because of the larger brakes plus I think it looks cool in a way having the rear dumped. Main reason is just because the one of the rims is bent from a previous car and I need to get it fixed ( was sick of pumping the tyre every time I went to move it )I will be running the 15x7 simmons all round, I have a set of 15x5.5 for the front with less offset that I may run if I get desperate, although I like the wheels hanging out of the guards

 

 

Already has ke55 discs, backing plates and girlock calipers with VN or VK rear soft pads in the front calipers.

 

Shortened R31 LSD diff going in, I'm going to put a KE20 cross member, custom LCA's with coilovers, most likely BC ae86 coilies or I might make a pair up. I have a AE86 rack'n'pinion to go in.

 

I can say one thing.. 2tg in a KE1x engine bay = F@!kn tight fit. 20mm all around and the brake booster+mastercylinder has no hope of getting in. I'm going to run a tilton floor mount pedal set up with a vh44 booster inside the guard or engine bay somewhere.

 

Regards, Jordain.

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I've got a ke20 crossmember and lca's etc to go into mine, might run coilovered t18 struts on the front with ke70 rack and pinion

 

Got an r31 diff for mine also but quoted a little over 2k to have it shortened so i'll pass on that for a while i reakon

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Yeah I'm going to shorten mine myself and get some custom billet axles made up. I already have a LSD for it.. just need to get the housing and the Pintar 3.89 gearset

 

Sound's good, I'm keen on getting a rack + pinion into the KE1x.. Not sure if it's been done before.

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Not sure, i've seen it done on a ke25. My steering box is as lose as a crack whore so i have to do something.

 

I think it'd handle crap if you just ran short tie rods rather than shortening the rack itself

 

The problem i've seen with ke20 xmember into ke10 is it seems to crank a fairbit of castor which with your 15's you might hit the guard, also there's no provision to bolt in the castor rod or sway bar brackets, and the sway bar has to be bolted into the chassis rail. Not sure how you'd get around that.. maybe running like a whiteline bracket kit for something else?

 

 

jono

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I'm only using the KE20 Crossmember. Custom LCA's to accomodate the Caster. You can buy RCA's ( roll centre adjusters ) from AJPS .. what it does is adds some camber making the degree of the wheel more like 0 or +5 etc. I'm going to make custom adjustable LCA's, no problem for me.. My guards are semi rolled and with some camber they will fit in nicely.. if not just add more camber and put 165's on the rims instead of 185s

 

I cut the little brackets that are welded onto the KE20 rails and I plan on welding them into my KE10 to give me the place to bolt the castor rod to.

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What do you mean by the custom lca's to combat castor? Are you just going put a bend in your lca's or weld in some crooked rosejoints?

 

dsc00391smallfc6.jpg

 

The longer the LCA the more Camber you get. Shorter the LCA the More Castor. What you have told me is with the KE20 Cross member and stock KE20 LCA's they give you a lot of Castor which will give me problems with my Wheels. If I put longer LCA's it will change the degree of camber/caster therefore it will give me camber.

 

I plan on making something similar to this:

 

IMG_4321.jpg

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Yeah they're rose jointed lca's

 

I'm planning on getting some blank kmac's a mate has and drill them to suit the ke10, they have one nut on top to the strut that you can adjust to change your camber as well as caster, i should have enough adjustment from that to get it back to around neutral

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Yeah, I plan on running them aswell. I haven't played with the crossmember as of yet, I want to build the other KE10 first and get my 2TG motor sorted. Will be interesting to watch you do it all, I'd much rather have somebody else nut it all out for me :wink:

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Yeah no worries, i'll be sorting mine out over the next week or so hopefully. It'd be good to have someone else doing it to help each other out ;)

 

At a thought at the moment though i might put the crossmember in and run t18 struts and brakes on the ke20 steering arm to retain the steering box set up for a while, also got a ta22 sway bar to go in, which i reakon you'll need as the ke20 one fouls in T series engine swaps

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been extremely busy last month with school. Finally.. school holiday's so I got stuck into it.

Ke10#2

 

206365_1946380744535_1393026071_2221612_4512599_n.jpg

 

217401_1946387824712_1393026071_2221619_5646175_n.jpg

 

215670_1947260686533_1393026071_2222638_6442708_n.jpg

 

Hopefully I will have it started and running tomorrow.

 

In other News KE10#1 has made some progress

 

205780_1943400830039_1393026071_2216955_3682224_n.jpg

 

216110_1943390749787_1393026071_2216951_1961083_n.jpg

 

207860_1933641306057_1393026071_2205045_6684024_n.jpg

 

188588_1914808875258_1393026071_2179343_3499796_n.jpg

 

And for a laugh :laff:

 

206894_1947235805911_1393026071_2222631_1031483_n.jpg

Edited by Jordain
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  • 3 weeks later...

The biggest question, 2TG with some cams, extractors, webbers or a 4AGE with ITB's and extractors... maybe a set of cam's later on.

 

What do you think

 

Remember, this is going to be driven daily.

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Well theres not much that sperates them when you think about it. Personally being bias I would be going a 2TG. Although parts in the future for a 4AGE might be more easily sourced.

 

Main difference is 4AGE will require an ECU I'm presuming

 

Would the 4AGE need cams straight up to make the most of the ITB's? Along with proper tuning I'm guessing (Sorry haven't had much experince with 4AGE's :laff: )

Edited by fusion
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