camerondownunder88 Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Hi, As most of you know I have a KE15 and drive it around. Today I fitted a TRD CDI unit to the car :( Very rare but packs hell of a spark. Now problem is wired it up as the CDI said how to, to a STOCK original KE1X coil. Car started great :D took it for a drive and straight away I noticed under load the car felt like it was missing and from idle to about 3500 RPM takes off runs fine :? So after a 5min drive get home pull open bonnet pop off dizzy cap (stock KE1X dizzy) points MELTED :bash: arm of the points was nice purple colour and out of shape and destroyed :( Now thing is I have the manual for the CDI and it is all in Jap :( can't read it so kinda went by pictures and the picture on the front of the CDI> Now has anyone ever used a TRD CDI? Also should I change my coil and will this stop the points dieing? ALso points failed I think due to current being pulled through them. Could it be the CDI will always pull too much current? I'm at a loss on how to sort it out any advice appreciated. Also from what I can decifer from the manual. CDI ona 4 cyclinder good to 18,000RPM giving 2 sparks at that point. With a output to coil of 5.5 K volts and will work from 8V to 16 volts input so works while cranking. Also a few pics in the book show how to wire it up with a resistor on the coil Would a resistor styled coil stop points melting every 5min? Cheers Cameron Pics of CDI etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Sounds like it is wired wrong, It is just 4 wire isn't it? Similar thing to what I run on mine, Though I have an electronic dizzy.. Yes run a ballast resistor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 If you want a hand to wire it up properly let me know.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 i reckon go electronic dissy! how does the dissy cap and rotor button look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 you just use the dizzy to trigger the CDI unit, Doesn't matter if it is points or electronic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 ALso points failed I think due to current being pulled through them So wired wrong somewhere... The whole advantage of electronic points is that they put a tiny current through the points and the points don't burn away, they just act as a switch to turn the electronics on and off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 oh thats right! +1 for wiring in wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 What do you reckon the dotted line between the coil -ve adn the distributor means?? I can see that the white wire goes to the points and signals the electronics when the points are opened or closed, and the red & yellow are coil +ve and -ve so they carry higher voltages than the usual 12V. Looks straightforward enough.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted August 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Hi, "Sounds like it is wired wrong, It is just 4 wire isn't it? Similar thing to what I run on mine, Though I have an electronic dizzy.. Yes run a ballast resistor!" I double checked the wiring about 10 times. It also came with a plug and play loom for KE3X/TE37 that was model when this unit was released. I made my own to suit KE1X. Only thing I can think is KE1X run a 12V coil no ballast resistor. KE3X and up have ballast resistor. Car runs just misses below 3500RPM and after that the fun begins but also melts and I mean MELTS points in 5min. Car still runs but as yes points are just a "switch" that is why it is weird I melted them. As for rotor and dizzy cap. Not a mark no burning or anything visible :( That is why I'm stumped it is some how cooking points. SO I think Justin you might be right I NEED the resistor. I have a spare KE3X coil and resistor in the shed so think Ill grab it and see how I go after replacing my points. But I got software to scan books and recognise the words and translate them etc so going to scan the manual see what I get. Cheers Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 That is why I'm stumped it is some how cooking points. SO I think Justin you might be right I NEED the resistor. I have a spare KE3X coil and resistor in the shed so think Ill grab it and see how I go after replacing my points. But I got software to scan books and recognise the words and translate them etc so going to scan the manual see what I get. Cheers Cameron measure the voltage to the points? should be 12V or 10v with a resistor, (NFI why your burning points) maybe check how many amps the points in pulling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted August 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Might seem stupid where do I hook up my nerd meter (multi-meter) to the points with the car running and the rotor cap on? Or jsut car ignition on the on position and cap off engine not running? Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob83ke70 Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 there has to be too much current through the points. maybe draw the circuit on a piece of paper - looking at what you have wired up and have a good look at it. there has to be something wrong if it melts points. Robert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 from the look of things white - goes to the points yellow - (-) side of the coil red - (+) side of the coil black - earth from memory isnt there jusy 1 wire coming off the points? witch opens and closes the electromagnetic field witch produces a spark? check for power at the white wire? there shouldnt be any going there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted August 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Hi, Should also note I ran the earth wire directly to the negative side of the battery. Would this affect operation? Also tomorrow I will go by new points and put them in remove the CDI and get car going fine.So back to square one. I will then install my KE30 coil and resistor and try that. If all is good then I will know that I have no issues. I will then install the CDI with the resistor on the coil and test. If I burn points I know it wasnt the coil. And ill start again. Evan as for dizzy wire yes jsut one wire to the coil. It then goes to the negative side of the coil. Cheers Cameron P.S. Should also note condenser is old as the hills and was burning hot after testing today so will replace this tomorrow also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 that wont affect operation. my money is on a power feed some how getting into the points, check for power to the white wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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