so today i picked up some parts from bursons still need to get my king's springs and my slotted rotors monday but i got my drums,pads,shoes and clutch

and my water cooled brakes I'm working on just gotta work out something for the rear and i gotta put a washer bottle in my car

Hey mitch don`t the race trucks run something similar water cooling wise?

like the idea, can see it now under brakes at the end of the straight steam pouring out!! :yes:

haha yeah i kinda dreamed up the idea from the race trucks they have steam pouring out under brakes haha

can i spray water inside the drum on the rear?

Wouldn't that reduce the amount of friction (therefore stopping power) the shoes have on the inside of the drum? On the outside should suffice to reduce the heat buildup?

My understanding of water cooling brake rotors is that the water is actually sprayed into the vanes of the rotor, not on the face. I suspect when you're spraying water onto the working surface of the rotor you'll end up with all kinds of drama concerning the pad material laid down on the rotor which is absolutely necessary for good pads to function effectively. Not to mention the potential problems with shock cooling when the surface is over 600 degrees.

 

I'm guessing you still have solid rotors? If that's the case then the solution, to my mind, is to upgrade the brakes to something at the very least vented. Then if you still have problems start spraying the inside of the rotor vanes.

he did mention he's getting slotted rotors :P

yeah i have solids haha and the rear sprays on the outside and the brakes are stock so i don't want them to get hot :)and only bendix general pads and the water sprays when the brake lights are activated and the water stays on for 3 seconds after the brakes come off just like our supercars

Edited November 27, 201114 yr by mitch-12

My understanding of water cooling brake rotors is that the water is actually sprayed into the vanes of the rotor, not on the face. I suspect when you're spraying water onto the working surface of the rotor you'll end up with all kinds of drama concerning the pad material laid down on the rotor which is absolutely necessary for good pads to function effectively. Not to mention the potential problems with shock cooling when the surface is over 600 degrees.

 

I'm guessing you still have solid rotors? If that's the case then the solution, to my mind, is to upgrade the brakes to something at the very least vented. Then if you still have problems start spraying the inside of the rotor vanes.

our supercar and every other supercar and our race truck has them and they spray in the ducts and all over the caliper and rotor and they work good i wouldnt do it if i didnt know it worked...

Edited November 27, 201114 yr by mitch-12

i have my rear brakes done :)and water squirters hooked up :) just need to put my front slotted rotors on after i get them monday and my king springs.. and a few little jobs to do

ringing up tommorow to get it booked in for a rollcage before australia day :) so i will be safe

Car is going to canberra to get the rollcage done on sunday so will be there for a while getting the cage done and its going to be tig welded woo :D

i have my rear brakes done :)and water squirters hooked up :) just need to put my front slotted rotors on after i get them monday and my king springs.. and a few little jobs to do

 

Slotted or vented?

Slotted or vented?

slotted :) still solid though

ok i got a bit done yesty, dropped my car off to the rollcage place today

put my clutch in

kings fitted

heaps lower now

brake sprayers

annd braided lines

ill update as i get progress pics of my rollcage and the lines have a extra rubber thing where they go through the strut

Edited December 4, 201114 yr by mitch-12