irokin Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Yea all bolt up essentially. I'm already running R33 GTSt fronts which are similar calipers (the only difference being the 32 GTR calipers take a 2mm wider rotor). The rears are standard S13 currently so going from a single piston 280mm rotor to a twin piston 297mm rotor with drum handbrake. All up in the rear I'll have a net gain of weight (heavier rotor, lighter caliper, extra handbrake mechanism). Front might be a slight reduction over whats currently on there but still heavier than standard. The goal is to have these brakes cope with the car for the foreseeable future. There's some R32 GTRs racing on standard calipers with good pads so I can't see me having any problems with a 500kg+ head start. The front calipers and rotors cost me $0 and the rear calipers cost me $0 I thought maybe I could throw some cash at jazzing them up a bit. Total cost for the brakes including the alloy pistons and reseal kit, new rear rotors, handbrake setup and new rear brake lines is around $1000 so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Ah thanks for that info on sizes. I've got r31 struts and brakes under the front of the 1600 and Datsport do a bracket kit(cheap) for the gts-t/gtr brakes. I'm thinking I could squeeze the gtr calipers inside a 15" rim which is good as that's what it's going to be engineered for. Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch-12 Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 haltech is heaps better then wolf don't go back and the platinum software is wonderful and the platinum series of ecus are awesome same as my 70 and if you want i could make you a bullet proof loom just like the loom in my 70 which is the same as the V8SC looms i do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Ah thanks for that info on sizes. I've got r31 struts and brakes under the front of the 1600 and Datsport do a bracket kit(cheap) for the gts-t/gtr brakes. I'm thinking I could squeeze the gtr calipers inside a 15" rim which is good as that's what it's going to be engineered for. Stu. It'll be a crazy tight fit on a 296mm rotor, they came under 16s from factory. The S14/15/Z32 cast iron and R32 alloy caliper takes a 280mm rotor and does fit under 15s so might be a better/easier option? Essentially the same setup, same piston size (40.4mm x 4), same pad (DB1170) just setup for a smaller rotor. Get the alloy version though, the cast iron ones add about 1.5kg per caliper! This is a standard GTR rim + caliper (and even the nasty old cross drilled rotor). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted September 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Just to add to the last post, going for the bigger rotors wont necessarily decrease your stopping distance. The only real advantage is increased heat handling capability. That said, if you want a caliper to trial fit I could post you down a loaner when I pull my R33 GTSt calipers off Stu? Seriously considering a set of Driftworks Geomaster knuckles all round at the moment. The reason being, they would solve a huge portion of the suspension work the car needs. Roll center, geometry, bump steer, lower, increased shock stroke and quicker steering all in one hit. They are designed for drifters but aside from the ackerman change (which I'm still trying to figure out if its good, bad or indifferent) I can't see anything that isn't an improvement for grip. I was looking at them a few months back but dismissed them when I decided to move to a drum handbrake because I thought they didn't fit. Turns out you just invert the backing plate and bobs your aunty. Its just price stopping me now, $1300 is a hell of a hit to the wallet. I'll have to wait and see how much extra work the car needs in the shop before I decide. mitch-12: If I have to replace it or do a new loom I'm still not sure what I'll do. Motec crossed my mind though, had enough of dealing with half arsed ECUs, time to deal with the masters? I am bloody pissed off that Haltech don't appear to want to support a product that they only stopped producing a couple of years ago. A friend sent an E11 (IIRC) down to be diagnosed, it came back with some extra weight reduction and a note saying to buy a new platinum series. Needless to say, that cars now running a different brand of ECU. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch-12 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 motec is the best and if you where going to re-loom the engine you would go a better ecu although the platinum series ecus are pretty damn good and i went sport 1000 over motec M48 for my ke70, if you want we have to motec m48's here for sale with ign expander so you can be sequential ign inj up to you though at the end of the day its all money and depending what you actually need. PM me for some prices on different ecu's if you like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Just to add to the last post, going for the bigger rotors wont necessarily decrease your stopping distance. The only real advantage is increased heat handling capability. That said, if you want a caliper to trial fit I could post you down a loaner when I pull my R33 GTSt calipers off Stu? mitch-12: If I have to replace it or do a new loom I'm still not sure what I'll do. Motec crossed my mind though, had enough of dealing with half arsed ECUs, time to deal with the masters? I am bloody pissed off that Haltech don't appear to want to support a product that they only stopped producing a couple of years ago. A friend sent an E11 (IIRC) down to be diagnosed, it came back with some extra weight reduction and a note saying to buy a new platinum series. Needless to say, that cars now running a different brand of ECU. Thanks for the offer i have a r33 gts-t setup in the shed, was just thinking if the gtr setup a mate has for sale might be worth it. This post was very welcome as dad is sick of spending money and just wants it done. Bearing in mind its only 980(ish)kgs the r31 stuff i have in it with qfm`s fitted should be good enough. Haha got the same treatment from microwreck when i asked for a wire diagram for the old d5 i had(about 5yr ago). "i`ve got a ltx10 that would do the job for about $1k" i said yeah no probs i just want the diag for the moment. hhmmm never saw the diagram.. Thanks again Ben. stu.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch-12 Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 microtech are shit. also i was at haltech head office on friday and they make there computers in house 100% and say they are the only in aus that don't farm anything out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 If the shit hits the fan and I have to make the switch I'm sure you'll be hearing from me Mitch ;). But I'm going to try and stick it out with the Haltech if I can, I really really don't want to spend more money on f@$king ECUs. Sick of dealing with the bloody things! Nothing in the car has let me down aside from ECUs so far. But I'll cross that bridge if/when I get there. I forgot about this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9UUWau0ajE Can't remember who owned the first GTR. Pretty sure the second one is Willo's old R34, then Mikeys old R32, Si's current R32 (300kW at the time) and me trying to keep up. You'll notice all the GTRs going into 4th just near the camera, I'm in 4th pretty much just past the corner exit all the way around to the dipper or even turn 3 on the limiter lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 Not a great deals been happening. I went down and dropped the diff off to the mechanic on Wednesday. Next week is apparently the big week where things get moving properly. Got some generic upper rear rose joint adjustable arms, probably chinese. Welding looks alright, rose joints look alright, no REIB and they seem to be a fairly proven design. Oh, and cheap. Also less exciting for everyone else but something I'm happy about, finally got around to getting some rear swaybar links so I can run a rear bar. My car never came with a rear swaybar so its always been a bit floppy in the rear and understeers through entry and mid corner with the Bilsteins. So hopefully having the swaybar from the suspension package will help solve those problems. Of course if it doesn't work out I can just unhook one side of the swaybar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninja-philbo Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 nice car mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ella Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 thats strange irokin, a lot of grip guys seem to remove the rear bar because of a tendacy of them to oversteer. oh well i guess its all in the setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Yea, I guess maybe they go a bit too hard with the damping and springs on the rear? I had a hell of a time the first track day with the Bilstiens, I had the rear ride height too high and the car was flip-flopping on the exit of turn 1. As in, the load would come off the outside and the car would roll the opposite way. Was not particularly pleasant but I dropped the rear and extra inch or two and that solved it pretty much. But never had the same experience with a similar ride height with the old stiff Cuscos. I'll see how it goes anyway, everything I've read so far has suggested the rear swaybar will push the balance back towards the front but there's only one way to find out. I picked up another set of R33 GTR rims too finally, not quite as good as my first set cosmetically but more than good enough! Edit: Need to drop this here for future reference: http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=1652 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted December 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 Went and had a look at the car for the first time in maybe 2+ months. Everything's moving along nicely, slowly but nicely. Remote oil filters done. Buggered stainless steel braid has all been replaced by Nomex/Kevlar braid with a much shorter path to the oil cooler. :D Apparently the old ones had started to perish inside so very lucky they got replaced. Battery relocation's almost done, lines run under the car nicely. Didn't have a look at the hot pipe but I think that's been done. Air temp sensors nicely fitted on the cold side. Cam gears are in. Still to do: Diff install Seat mount Tune I'm gonna go in sometime early in the new year and whack the new brake setup on. All looking good to make the first track day of the new year so far (Feb 16th) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted January 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Made 196kW @ 15psi on Tuesday. Haven't got the dyno sheet yet and don't know much else. I was going to ask them to go for more power but I decided to just leave it for now because I'd had to pop the motor having only just got it running again. If I get bored later this year I'll drop it back and get the boost cranked up. On the old turbo it made 192kW @ 12psi so not a big gain in outright power. The boost increase comes from the smaller rear housing (0.64 vs 0.86 on the old turbo) but I'm hoping this has opened up a much larger usable power band. Seat mount and diff to go... but I think my mechanics forgotten about the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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