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The Silvia


irokin

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s14s are pretty cheap now, and you get alot of car for your cash.

 

but hey nothign wrong with an s13 either.

 

For sure. I don't want to make it sound like excuses, you can do everything with an S13 that you can with an S14. Just the S14/15 is a better starting point. There's some geometry changes to the rear subframe, has a mid mounted fuel tank, chassis updates, comes 5 stud from factory and doesn't need brake upgrades straight away. One downside is that it's heavier by about 50kg but I'm sure you could recover most of that deficit.

 

 

Lap times once I figured out how to drive the car again:

 

001-1.jpg

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New exhaust is on. Its pretty loud and very very deep noted. Got a small leak on the rear joint that I need to fix. Its a few KG lighter than the old one and much tidier under the car. Hopefully it solves the problem with the dump pipe...

 

Now onto pulling the intake manifold off to try and find this coolant leak and drop off the rotors to see if they can be machined (new rotors are coming ex-japan and will take a few weeks so might not be here in time).

 

Also need to think about overhauling the starter motor while the manifolds off. It's sounding a bit worse for wear (dry bearings I think).

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  • 2 weeks later...

So a few weeks ago my life changed forever. Some say it was for the better, others say for worse.

 

It was the week before the track day and my new clutch master and slave had been delivered but the clutch line was completely ʞ©$ɟing wrong. No one was selling the clutch line I needed (CA18 an SR20 masters are different, I was changing over to a SR20 master) and those that "had it" were actually out of stock. So that sucked. Then I thought, surely I could buy the fittings and hose and get my mechanic to make up a line for me. So I ordered all the bits, M10x1.0 inverted flare to AN-3, 90* AN-3 hose ends, AN-3 teflon braided hose etc. So it all arrived a day or two later but I really couldn't be bothered doing the two hour round trip to see my mechanic so I read up on how to make teflon braided lines. I had this idea in my head that it was really difficult but after a bit of reading I realised it's only barely more difficult than putting an end on a garden hose. I had enough hose to have my mechanic make up another line if I ʞ©$ɟed it up so there wasn't really anything to lose. So I made my hose up (after some head scratching trying to figure out how to get them to line up then realising they're ʞ©$ɟing swivel fittings you moron) installed it annnnd it leaks. ʞ©$ɟ. But it turns out it was just one of the AN flares wasn't tightened up enough, a slight wriggle to get it to seat properly and a tweak with the spanner and it was like a bought one.

 

 

Suddenly I felt like I was some kind of braided hose expert; "Replace ALL the hoses!". So after a sizable order from VPW and another from JEGS I've got AN fittings coming out of my arse, about 8+ meters of various sizes and types (black nomex for the visible stuff, stainless for high temp and hidden stuff, some left over teflon) of hose, a whole bunch of fittings, reducers, adapters and all sorts of other shit. It's a disease, like ʞ©$ɟing pringles. Once you pop you can't stop!

 

 

HEEELLLPPP MEEEEEE!!!!

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hahaha i enjoyed that little story.

 

ive don't simliar things, worked out you can do something, and wanna go nuts with it...

 

i went through a bolt phase a few yrs back on the corolla, found i could buy nice new shiny bolts for dirt cheap to replace the rusty old ones...

 

so i bought 40 million of them and got about 10 swapped over and got bored of that. still have a few boxes of bolts somewhere.....

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Suddenly I felt like I was some kind of braided hose expert; "Replace ALL the hoses!". So after a sizable order from VPW and another from JEGS I've got AN fittings coming out of my arse, about 8+ meters of various sizes and types (black nomex for the visible stuff, stainless for high temp and hidden stuff, some left over teflon) of hose, a whole bunch of fittings, reducers, adapters and all sorts of other shit. It's a disease, like ʞ©$ɟing pringles. Once you pop you can't stop!

 

 

HEEELLLPPP MEEEEEE!!!!

 

Your in trouble now.

Poverty is the only known cure for this affliction!!

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  • 1 month later...

Made anymore braided hoses for this thing? Haha.

 

Koolaid.jpg

 

Oh yea!

 

Replaced the thermostat bypass with braided lines because the hardlines have been corroding and leaking. Turbo coolant lines are now the S14/15 style setup so no more retarded around-the-back lines. Gets some hardcore thermosyphon through the turbo when you shut the engine off.

 

Recirc lines. Not pretty but it's all covered by the manifold. They look excessively long and drooping but that's just because of the angle of the fittings. They don't droop at all and the length is necessary for the lines to comfortably bend in to the right positions. Bottom lines weren't done by me and they only look like shit because they've been reused from a previous iteration of the oil system. The rubber stopper is unfortunate but when I have the engine out next I'll have that line welded up (difficult to get out when the engines in).

20120622_212749.jpg

 

Updated my fuel delivery too as the rubber lines had started to perish. Now have braided off the hardline into an Aeroquip fuel filter into a tee with a fuel pressure gauge into black Nomex braided lines to and from the SARD fuel rail. I'll see if I can wheel the car out and get a photo of the fuel system.

 

Had some spare -16 stainless braid hose that I didn't end up using so replaced the IAV line with that with a spare clamp dress fitting while I had the manifold apart.

 

Probably the last hoses in the engine bay that I could change over to braided is the catch can lines. Everything else that can be changed over, is.

 

 

Some things I have learnt:

  • Lubrication is king. A bit of oil on the threads make the fittings a shitload easier to put together. I used silicon spray if I was worried about oil contamination.
  • Nomex braid is less than half the weight of stainless braid (but twice the price). It's about 205g/M for stainless and something like 90g/M for the nomex.
  • Nomex braid is easier to cut and assemble. The cutting is more notable than the assembly though.
  • Nomex will make tighter bends but will collapse if bent too far (stainless will just resist the bending).
  • The Proflow compression fittings seem to have metric hose assemblies and the cutter style seem to be imperial.
  • Compression are heaps easier to assemble but probably don't have quite the same pressure abilities as cutter style. I'd be comfortable using compression up to about 150-200psi.
  • Black anodised (might be powder coated?) fittings seem to have a tougher finish that the typical blue/red anodising.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

Suddenly I felt like I was some kind of braided hose expert; "Replace ALL the hoses!"

 

I almost had this happen to me, I found a stack of Rocket Industries catalogues at work and got so excited about AN fittings and hoses. Lucky I ran out of money after replacing only one oil line with braided stuff :blinks: ʞ©$ɟ they're expensive!

 

Might have to come up to QR for a bit of Time Attack when my car is running ;)

 

Yes do this! And we will race your blacktop against my bluetop.

Edited by rian
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