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LittleRedSpirit

The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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Ok where to begin, its been a long few weeks waiting to get her fixed, which went about as well as it could have.  Ive been wathcing fuel pressure lately, been struggling with fairly inconsistent torque.  Car has always gone really well cold, and semed to get asthmatic when hot.  I started heavily examining fuel pressure and temp as a possible cause.  Along the way I noticed my Tomei reg was a shitty knockoff, and that my fuel pressures were dropping to half what they should be after the car was running for a while.  I decided a good quality fuel pressure reg was a good investment.  I ended up buying an FPR1200 from turbosmart with the dash 6 fittings to the rail.  This meant the restriction to 1/4 inch on the outflow of the rail was removed so the feed and return is fully 8mm now.  Installed new hose clamps and the fresh efi hose required.  Must be getting good at it cause nothing leaked.

Unfortunately, the reg wasnt the issue, so now I needed to look at the pumps, and why the fuel pressure might be dropping.  It seemed like a worse problem when the car was hotter, and the longer the car ran, the more the fuel pressure dropped.  Was looking into density loss due to heating the fuel.  Just couldnt work it out.  As a basic test I looked at the voltage at the fuel pump when the car was running, and found 11 volts when it should have been 13.8.  Viola!  Voltage drop.  Used the IR gun to test the temp of the wiring, 65 degrees C.  Relays, same temp.  Seemed bloody hot.  Must be a high resistance problem.  Spoke to Medicine Man who had wired it originally, and we decided to shorten and simplify the wiring, and relocate the relays.  I loked up the pumps and they have a combined total draw of 14.5 to 15 AMPS constant.  The twin running them was 15 amp twin, and the one wire jumped apart into both pumps at a sub connector on top of the tank. 

My solution, was to add the relay to the fuse and relay box I had recently set up in the back of the car, next to the battery.  This allowed the shortest possible run from battery to pump to ground.  I used a twin 87 5 pin relay and ran one wire per pump, and ran the grounds back to the battery negative.  Instantly had the same voltage as the dash gauge when I tested.  Fuel pressure does drop a small amount from cold to hot, but only what the temperature of the system dictates, and not from voltage drop.  The icing on the cake is the car goes like stink now, feels like the motor got bigger.  It also wanted the VE tables massively adjusted.  Went from peak values over 120 to around low 90s at peak, so the overall fuelling has come way back to account for adequate pressure.  A bit of quick mental math says it has twice the fuel available at double the pressure, but that the ve tables only went down 25 percent, so it will atoimise and burn more of it now.  Also, the car hasnt lost any real economy so far, as I got onto retuning it quicker than usual, which makes me think when complete, I will have a nice further increase in economy, and power to boot.  Im pretty sure I can get into the 13s now.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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A few photos for the fans haha.

One from the rollaclub Cruise on the 14th.

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A couple nice JDM cars Ive seen lately.

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The repaired front end of the car, with a nicely done bonnet and bars now.

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Time slips from the drags.  Clutch can no longer hold the power.  Ive quoted a HD 30 percent stronger one that will cost 570 bucks or so from NPC.  Got best MPH and 60 foot, but bogged on one run, and clutch slipped on the faster one and I backed out of it.

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Restored some actual ae86 rear plate lights and threw away the thai knockoff ke70 ones that were super cheap, but lasted 3 years before going to powder in the sun and snapping wires off.

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Kouki Headlights are way way brighter eh.

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Little Anika just wont stop growing.  Her and her mum are up North in Cairns right now, having a holiday on Omi and Opas sail boat.

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Im working on parts sourcing all the obscure bits I need to put together more 2azfe conversions.  Theres some interest, but nobody wants to do the work.  I think I can put together a parts package that makes it quite easy to do from everything that Ive learned.  I figure people spend over 2 grand just relocating the shifter on a Beams for use in a differnt car, so the 2az has be a good option.  Main issue being a lot of the source vehicles arent around any more, so Im just patiently looking for bits.  I think to overcome the rarity of finding a 2azfe flywheel, I can just have NPC make them to spec with the correct design, offer a few different clutch packages, and have a couple ready to go so when people want to do the conversion they can get the bits off me and get to work.  So many motors around now.

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Its all back together and running now.  New clutch is great.  A little heavier but still quite nice.  New brake booster has fixed the wierd pedal feel.  Just feels like a normal brake pedal now.  New thinner wire throttle cable has the desired effect and returns to zero effortlessly.

I have 5 oil pickups now and a Jig to make new ones from.  Ive got 5 bellhousings, forks, slave cylinders and a lot of whats needed.  Was working on a mounts program but that didnt pan out as intended so it was stopped.  Next will need to be an inlet manifold program, so that will solve another of the hurdles.

I have now got an orderable part number I can get to spec for the clutcdh and flywheel setup, and it corrects the need to space the starter, it just bolts right up to the bellhousing now.

She goes like stink!  I took a drive over the hill to Samford yesterday for a shake down.  Went perfect.  its great putting a car back together when its already tuned, as it just works!

Managed to secure another MX13 Diff and tailshaft!  Spares!  Timely too as my back left drum has issues.

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My little laptop died so I bought a newish aspire 3 on gumtree.  It logs in so much higher resolution, it never misses anything.  Sometimes I would take a long drive in the car with the netbook logging, then pull up and review, and the data would be missing chunks, especially under hard acceleration where you want to log.  This laptop doesnt miss anything.  Due to this I was able to sharpen up the tune like never before, drop the resolution, and having stable fuel pressure Its solid day to day.  Stoked. 

Made some adjustments to the vvti mapping, smoothed and reduced the vvti as it transitions to on.  At this point Ive experimented with it starting up between 6 and 40 percent tps, and coming in hard, coming in steady.  Ive tried it all.  I had it really snappy off the bottom so the last round of adjustment was aimed at both making the transition of torque more steady on first touch, so its more pleasurable to drive in daily conditions, while also looking for better pickup if you jump on the throttle and get to high tps at a lower rpm.  Its really grunty there, just getting it crisp and more linear with throttle top to bottom.

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Nice to see a successful conversion with the bugs ironed out!  My 4AGE still dies at idle or speeds up, one day I'll sort it out!

That's a tall motor alright, a difficult one to fit.

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Ok its been too long between updates.

Had some lovely long drives in this car.  It drives better in traffic than ever before with the heavier clutch and flywheel combo.  Initial torque is so high its a pain to drive without the heavy weight flywheel to dampen the initial touch of the throttle and stop the diff from making thumping noises.

Dragged off an fg xr6 yesterday easily enough to get a P plater fly by from an older guy.  Hahaha.  Beat him at a stoplight 2 into 1 merge that finishes at 100kph.  He had to do the big overtake at the first opportunity.  Lost sight of him going into second and he never entered my periphery again.  Legend.

Bugger all JDM car scene up here in Maryborough.  There's one or two Silvias and Skylines, but nobody knows what a Sprinter is.  This is where VT commodores with no fuel doors go to die.

Going to put the car on a hub dyno tomorrow and see how its running.  There's a place in Harvey bay with a really good google feedback rating, and they are Adaptronic dealers as well.  Just going to do a power test and check afrs on the big wideband setup at this stage and see what's up with it.

Did fresh plugs, and filters before the dyno.  Experimenting with 1.2mm plug gaps up from 1.1mm.  I'm thinking Id like to make a couple of different maps and run them all in sequence as an experiment. 

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Visited the wreckers up here and ended up buying some old BMW BBS MAHLE factory option wheels to restore.  From what I can tell they came out in 1975 and are the upgraded factory option wheel for 5,6,and 7 series cars.  Basically look like SSR mesh except in a one piece forged type.  I'm just gonna strip em back and paint them in a light grey or silver finish.  They seem really true and have minimal rash or damage at all.  The more I look into it, wheel companies just bit each other.  Every car scene has its own names for different styles of wheels.  In bmw terms, fins are called alpinas, meshies are called bbs, and it goes on and on.  I guess there's only so many styles of wheel in the world.

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Anika is loving the place, she's having heaps of fun at Kindy and she's got amazing people skills for a child under 3.  She fearlessly introduces herself to anyone anywhere any-time.

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Haven't found work up here yet.  Did a couple of weeks contracting to a mate down in Brisbane, but the only really nice thing about being away is coming home and when your daughter is really excited to see you get home.

My Gerni finally blew up.  Had that thing for years, so I bought another one and its smaller and higher pressure rated.  Been using my free time to clean shit up.  Pressure washed and detailed the work ute.  Took heaps of junk and old furniture and boxes to the dump.  Took the ae86 to car lovers type car wash and gave it a good sudsing.

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Had so much rain here last few weeks I got the AE86 bogged in my lawn just trying to back out to the road from the back yard.

 

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Not much to report.  During the dyno session played with fuel pressure so just chasing economy again trimming up the map.  We did some experiments with vvti, found some setting that hopefully is more optimal.

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Been restoring some old bmw BBS Mahle 14x7 +11 factory upgrade wheels.  Got em looking quite good now.  Might have to strip and resto my ssr fins soon.  I think Ill leave the outersalone but I would like to paint the centres up in the silver.  I used fergen silber 144 from glasurits bmw range.  Apparently its what a lot of vintage bbs wheels were painted late 70s early 80s.

Before Restore:

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After stripping and etch priming with ppg/protec etch primer.

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After surfacer and mettallic top coat.

Tryna buy land and build a house:

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Weighing up the best high flowing toyota inlet manifold, looking at 2zzge or beams.  Looking to adapt to 2azfe.  This is beams intake flange pattern, its closer to the 2azfe than the 2zzge but I need a manifold to have a play with to see if its really worth adapting.

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I have always seen 2az as a poor mans beams conversion, however this power comparison might make it seem more exotic.  Its a 184 hp beams dyno against my 180hp 2azfe dyno.  The Beams only beats the 2azfe by 4hp right up top.  Admittedly this is my hub dyno vs a wheels dyno, however my 180hp was with filters on!  Thats gotta drain 5kw.

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