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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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Ok where to begin, its been a long few weeks waiting to get her fixed, which went about as well as it could have.  Ive been wathcing fuel pressure lately, been struggling with fairly inconsistent torque.  Car has always gone really well cold, and semed to get asthmatic when hot.  I started heavily examining fuel pressure and temp as a possible cause.  Along the way I noticed my Tomei reg was a shitty knockoff, and that my fuel pressures were dropping to half what they should be after the car was running for a while.  I decided a good quality fuel pressure reg was a good investment.  I ended up buying an FPR1200 from turbosmart with the dash 6 fittings to the rail.  This meant the restriction to 1/4 inch on the outflow of the rail was removed so the feed and return is fully 8mm now.  Installed new hose clamps and the fresh efi hose required.  Must be getting good at it cause nothing leaked.

Unfortunately, the reg wasnt the issue, so now I needed to look at the pumps, and why the fuel pressure might be dropping.  It seemed like a worse problem when the car was hotter, and the longer the car ran, the more the fuel pressure dropped.  Was looking into density loss due to heating the fuel.  Just couldnt work it out.  As a basic test I looked at the voltage at the fuel pump when the car was running, and found 11 volts when it should have been 13.8.  Viola!  Voltage drop.  Used the IR gun to test the temp of the wiring, 65 degrees C.  Relays, same temp.  Seemed bloody hot.  Must be a high resistance problem.  Spoke to Medicine Man who had wired it originally, and we decided to shorten and simplify the wiring, and relocate the relays.  I loked up the pumps and they have a combined total draw of 14.5 to 15 AMPS constant.  The twin running them was 15 amp twin, and the one wire jumped apart into both pumps at a sub connector on top of the tank. 

My solution, was to add the relay to the fuse and relay box I had recently set up in the back of the car, next to the battery.  This allowed the shortest possible run from battery to pump to ground.  I used a twin 87 5 pin relay and ran one wire per pump, and ran the grounds back to the battery negative.  Instantly had the same voltage as the dash gauge when I tested.  Fuel pressure does drop a small amount from cold to hot, but only what the temperature of the system dictates, and not from voltage drop.  The icing on the cake is the car goes like stink now, feels like the motor got bigger.  It also wanted the VE tables massively adjusted.  Went from peak values over 120 to around low 90s at peak, so the overall fuelling has come way back to account for adequate pressure.  A bit of quick mental math says it has twice the fuel available at double the pressure, but that the ve tables only went down 25 percent, so it will atoimise and burn more of it now.  Also, the car hasnt lost any real economy so far, as I got onto retuning it quicker than usual, which makes me think when complete, I will have a nice further increase in economy, and power to boot.  Im pretty sure I can get into the 13s now.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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A few photos for the fans haha.

One from the rollaclub Cruise on the 14th.


A couple nice JDM cars Ive seen lately.


The repaired front end of the car, with a nicely done bonnet and bars now.




Time slips from the drags.  Clutch can no longer hold the power.  Ive quoted a HD 30 percent stronger one that will cost 570 bucks or so from NPC.  Got best MPH and 60 foot, but bogged on one run, and clutch slipped on the faster one and I backed out of it.


Restored some actual ae86 rear plate lights and threw away the thai knockoff ke70 ones that were super cheap, but lasted 3 years before going to powder in the sun and snapping wires off.


Kouki Headlights are way way brighter eh.



Little Anika just wont stop growing.  Her and her mum are up North in Cairns right now, having a holiday on Omi and Opas sail boat.


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Lots of great updates there. Anika is growing up fast!

Ive used NPC a few times now, great company to deal with. 

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Im working on parts sourcing all the obscure bits I need to put together more 2azfe conversions.  Theres some interest, but nobody wants to do the work.  I think I can put together a parts package that makes it quite easy to do from everything that Ive learned.  I figure people spend over 2 grand just relocating the shifter on a Beams for use in a differnt car, so the 2az has be a good option.  Main issue being a lot of the source vehicles arent around any more, so Im just patiently looking for bits.  I think to overcome the rarity of finding a 2azfe flywheel, I can just have NPC make them to spec with the correct design, offer a few different clutch packages, and have a couple ready to go so when people want to do the conversion they can get the bits off me and get to work.  So many motors around now.

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