ok so i decided to start on the smaller holes, for this i decided to use ReoFill (Fibreglass Reinforced body filler). i started of by using acetone to clean around the areas that i had cleaned with a file/sand paper and a wire brush. Once clean i covered the holes with masking tape on the outside(have photos if need be). once the tape was in place, i mixed the filler and applied it from inside the boot. this created a wall so that way when i want to fix up the outside so it looks nice, i can do so by having a supported structure across the back. i have uploaded some photos of how it looks from the outside after i pulled the tape of (this was about 2 hours later).

Edited September 22, 201115 yr by ae71rollr

no pictures?

photos are now up

Edited September 22, 201115 yr by ae71rollr

ok so now I'm not sure if i should use body filler or reofill on the outside of the car, purely the fact that reofill is a bitch to sand.

If you sand it don't forget a mask :happy:

Electronic rust protection is BS, not worth money of the effort.

 

Fibreglass is fine for rust repairs on something you arent hoping to keep for a long time, its a temporary solution but definitely gets you by.

 

Realistically, for a car thats probably only worth 1500 maximum, you need to weigh up cost-benefits if you were to pay someone to weld some fresh steel in there.

 

 

The only thing I can suggest next time you do some glass work is cut out the rust first, sand surrounding areas back to bare metal, apply rust converter let that dry, etch prime and then fibreglass. You've made a decent start though, bit of filler and no one will ever know :wink:

Electronic rust proofing is a scam. It would only work if the vehicle was completely submerged under water.

I don't understand why people don't use a sacrificial anode to protect cars from rust, would it not work? Has anyone tried it? I might try it with some aluminium or something.

aluminium or something

 

Lets us know what your research comes up with. Zinc would be the first start, aluminium won't work, and you will know a lot about electrode potentials by the time you have finished.

 

 

 

 

 

I just did a whole heap of reading about it, and it seems that it doesn't work all that well above the ground or in dry environments. It needs an electrolytic path to complete the circuit otherwise the potential difference between the metals does nothing. Which sucks.