ae71rollr Posted September 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 (edited) ok so i decided to start on the smaller holes, for this i decided to use ReoFill (Fibreglass Reinforced body filler). i started of by using acetone to clean around the areas that i had cleaned with a file/sand paper and a wire brush. Once clean i covered the holes with masking tape on the outside(have photos if need be). once the tape was in place, i mixed the filler and applied it from inside the boot. this created a wall so that way when i want to fix up the outside so it looks nice, i can do so by having a supported structure across the back. i have uploaded some photos of how it looks from the outside after i pulled the tape of (this was about 2 hours later). Edited September 22, 2011 by ae71rollr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19914afc Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 no pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae71rollr Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 (edited) photos are now up Edited September 22, 2011 by ae71rollr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae71rollr Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 ok so now I'm not sure if i should use body filler or reofill on the outside of the car, purely the fact that reofill is a bitch to sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer[RL] Posted September 27, 2011 Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 If you sand it don't forget a mask :happy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangeLJ Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 Electronic rust protection is BS, not worth money of the effort. Fibreglass is fine for rust repairs on something you arent hoping to keep for a long time, its a temporary solution but definitely gets you by. Realistically, for a car thats probably only worth 1500 maximum, you need to weigh up cost-benefits if you were to pay someone to weld some fresh steel in there. The only thing I can suggest next time you do some glass work is cut out the rust first, sand surrounding areas back to bare metal, apply rust converter let that dry, etch prime and then fibreglass. You've made a decent start though, bit of filler and no one will ever know :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE92reddragon Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 Electronic rust proofing is a scam. It would only work if the vehicle was completely submerged under water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rian Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 I don't understand why people don't use a sacrificial anode to protect cars from rust, would it not work? Has anyone tried it? I might try it with some aluminium or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 aluminium or something Lets us know what your research comes up with. Zinc would be the first start, aluminium won't work, and you will know a lot about electrode potentials by the time you have finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rian Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 I just did a whole heap of reading about it, and it seems that it doesn't work all that well above the ground or in dry environments. It needs an electrolytic path to complete the circuit otherwise the potential difference between the metals does nothing. Which sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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