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Peanut Bait

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  • I actually snapped one of the mounting points off so I went, f**k it, all the mechanisms were smooth as.   It was close to the end of the day after 7 hours without a break and id run out of beer.

  • basic, crude, K MOTOR POWER!

  • *sigh   this is why I usually don't ask for help on here. guaranteed someone knows but all I get is f**king fishtanks :|

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If it was me I'd just put a good quality multi layered steel head gasket on of the same thickness. FYI if you look at most SR's, 3sgte's, RB etc etc, they push 14psi through the standard Head gasket all day with no issues.

 

An MLS will provide better sealing and handle the combusion pressure easier.

  • Author

Pretty much what I figured, there were a few thickness' so I thought I'd ask. I want reliability so if a thicker one was gonna help I'd put it in. Those MLS ones aint cheap though so it better do the job ;)

yeah you should be looking in the range of 150 - 300 depending on the brand. Keep in mind that a thicker headgasket has a bigger surface area that it exposed to the combusion pressures.

 

aswell as it barely effects the static compression ratio.

I also forgot, but when you pull the engine apart take care to notice if anything is out of the ordinary. What I mean by that is if one or two head bolts seem loose/ not as tight as the others.

 

Also I'm not sure how hard it is to get the workshop manuals but make sure the head bolts are not streched, see if you can easily identify what caused the head gasket to blow and check the deviation on the surface of the head and block. The flatness is really important, if the surface deviation is outside OEM specs you will blow another head gasket in a matter of hours after putting the car back together.

 

If the head needs to be milled flat, get it hardness tested at the same time (this normally will cost you nothing, it is a ball bearing they drop on the sealing surface from a certain height and they measure the rebound. The higher it bounces the harder the metal of the head. You are looking for a high rebound the harder the metal the better the head.

 

If any of the head blots measure longer than OEM spec, they are streched do not use 2nd hand headbolts, for the sake of peice of mind buy some new ones.

 

I'll add things as I remeber them.

Do you know anyone with a wide band analyis kit near you that you could borrow??

 

It could be wise to look at your stoichiometric figures / air fuel ratios, after it put back together. Just to make sure your base line fuel pressure is correct and that it is not to lean under wide open throttle.

 

I live in Vic and the kit I use is an innovative LM-2.

  • Author

I was gonna get new ARP head bolts. I don't have access to anything unless I pay someone. I'm just hoping 14psi on a stock head gasket with cams revving really high was too much. If anything feels wrong when I take it apart ill definitely investigate more.

Good luck mate, I hope that it is just an old Head gasket that has failed.

 

What vehicle did the engine come out of?? the reason I ask is that I can get you some autodata info on the motor if you don't have a workshop manual, All the info I need is year of maufacture and model

reed your welcome to come over and put my wideband on it, would be a good idea to check the afrs. you will need a spare bung in your dump pipe, and a working cigarette lighter though.

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