Aussie_KE70

Wow, thats alot of caliper clearance...

Have you made a move on the side mount of Gumtree??

Reed, also have a look around for an ARC side mount for an R32 / R33 they are meant to be 100mm thick I believe. Every now and then they pop up and people are always giving them away cause the price of a china front mount makes them nearly worthless

Series 1 C34 Stagea (RB25DET Series 2 from and R33 GTST) Series 2 C34 Stagea - These vehicles particularly the WGC34 have an R34 GT-T engine RB25DET NEO and drive train with S14/15 front and rear steering and suspension C34 Stagea 260RS (R33 RB26DETT, altessa 4wd etc etc) These run a front mount intercooler just like the GTR's The stages's vins the key to knowing what they have as per the below chart Chassis Code Model Name Engine Size Drivetrain E-WGC34 X AERO SELECTION 2500 2WD E-WGC34 X 2500 2WD E-WGC34 RS AERO SELECTION 2500 2WD E-WGC34 RS 2500 2WD E-WGC34 G 2500 2WD GF-WHC34 X 2000 2WD GF-WHC34 G 2000 2WD E-WGNC34 X FOUR AERO 2500T 4WD E-WGNC34 X FOUR 2500T 4WD E-WGNC34 RS FOUR V AERO 2500T 4WD E-WGNC34 RS FOUR V 2500T 4WD E-WGNC34 RS FOUR AERO 2500T 4WD E-WGNC34 RS FOUR 2500T 4WD E-WGNC34 X FOUR AERO 2500 4WD E-WGNC34 X FOUR 2500 4WD E-WGNC34 RS FOUR 2500 4WD E-WGNC34 G FOUR 2500 4WD E-WGNC34 260RS Autech Version 2600 4WD

It depends if it a Series 1 C34, they have the head lights and driving lights in the one light assembly made from 1996- late 1998 the Series 2 C34 has the head light separate from the driving lights/ high beam and they are located in the grill. I have a Series 2 C34 Stagea dayz edition. It has from the factory a 80mm side mount intercooler.

look for a C34 Stagea cooler, they are the same as the R34 items

Any update :wootjump: :wootjump: :groupwave:

What is the colour?, by the way the car look fantastic. Excellent job

take a fridge magnet with you mate and check the seals for bog.

I have cleaned all that last night. The carby stripped down soaked in fuel for 24 hrs then I cleaned it with carby clean and compressed air. I paid particular attention to the idle circuit, jets and venturies of the carb. The engine manual specifically mentions that if the idle mixture screw is damaged by being screwed to far in against the seat, ie creating a circular impression on the taper that it is to be replaced.

Well it turns out that I can get a new mixture screw for the carby for a hefty $27 from bursons. I'll have a brand new item in my hands on monday

I reccon I will use some 1000 grit wet n dry and re profile it as the marks would only be just deep enough to catch your finger nail, but I do remember it having a ridicules high idle before this started. At this stage the idle in gear would be around 800rpm with the hand choke pulled out around 1/4. Cheers thanks for your help. I'll give an update in a couple of days after the weekend.

Do you think it is possible to re-profile the screw??

To be honest it is 100% better than what it was 2 days ago BUT at idle it will stalls when putting it into gear, the only way that I can get it to hold idle in gear is with the hand choke. I am attribute this directly to the AFR's being too lean. If that's what it has to be, well so be it but I would like to get it to idle in gear with out the choke. I don't suppose you know where I could located another mixture screw?? I have checked the local wreckers here in Gippy with no luck

Okay so last night at 12am I had the carby back together and on the car, first hit of the key and it fired and ran on the hand choke. So I adjusted the base rpm screw took the hand choke off and it began to idle....... bonus..... BUT at idle ie 750-1000 rpm it has developed a slight miss, but under load, ie put it in gear (its an auto) and with the hand brake and foot brake on and pull the choke out to increase the rpm, it idles without a miss. So I attached my wide band O2 sensor to the exhaust to see what the mixture was and I attached the vacuum gauge to the carby. Now the vacuum is sitting at 30 inches of mercury (please ignore my ignorance but is that normal or low????) And the AFR was sitting at 18.7 which is about 0.5% CO emission at around 900rpm which is really lean, now I tried to adjust the mixture screw and it made 0 difference. I have checked the timing again - its sitting at 8 degrees at 900rpm, valve clearance are correct and I have not found any vacuum leaks (checked with a few sprays of "start ya bastard"). My questions are; 1) 30 in Mg is this in the normal range for these engines ? (I know that there are many variables that effect this) 2) Is the AFR sitting at 18.7 normal? given that 1% of Carbon Dioxide is usually only recorded between 14.7 and 15.2 AFR (Engine manual states to tune idle to 1% CO reading at 750 - 800 rpm) 3) In my experience a miss at idle with no load indicates a vacuum leak but it also could be an incomplete combustion due to the lean AFR? thoughts

cheers thanks for the heads up, the carby in its bits and pieces has been soaking in petrol all day, I have a couple of cans of Nulon carby cleaners and I have a compressor. Its all going back together shortly, later this arvo hopefully by this time tomorrow I'll have some good news :thumbsup:

Okay so the electrical idle shut of is working correctly, I stripped the carby down last night and it was full of crap throughout the bowl and the jets were partially blocked. Now I did notice that the idle mixture screw had been damaged by screwing it in to hard, ie there is a ring impression around the taper. How crucial is this??

Cheers I'll check that tonight

Hi all, Just after a little guidance/ assistance. Now I have used the search function and it has not helped, hence the questions. The KE70 I have has a standard 4K-C and carby on it. I'm about to put a carby kit through the carby and clean the damn thing, as the car will not idle and I suspect that the idle circuit in the carb is blocked or there is a restriction. Now I have checked the timing without vaccum assist and its at 8 degrees, cleaned the points, spark plugs and dizzy cap and rotor button. The valve clearance have been just adjusted, I have replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the fuel line between the tank and filter with compressed air. I have replaced the fuel line between the fuel pump and fuel filter and I have clean the fuel line between the carb and fuel pump. Now reading the Toyota engine manual, under tune up it talks about removing the vac line to the HIC valve and block the hose and remove the var line to the Air Injection check valve and plug the vac line. Now for the life of me or its my dyslexic day I am trouble finding both of these. I am assuming that HIC = High Idle Control, now the only check valve that seem to replicate this is a green valve that attaches to the air cleaner on the passenger side of the vehicle. Is this it ???? And I have no Idea where the Hell the AI check valve is ??.......... I can see the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Valve but from my experience these are usually 2 different things. One channels exhaust gasses back into the engine the other usually pump air into the exhaust like what was found on the Holden VK commodore black 202 engines. I have upload the page I'm referring to in the manual below. Thanks in advance. Cheers Luke

I live in Stratty so yeah I'll be heading down for a look. TBH I'm really ticked off I was not able to get to motorfest

Also if you do a draw through set up then fuel is passing through a supercharger, the seals will need changing to be fuel resistant. Otherwise the fuel will eat the seals away in no time at all. Further more any seals/silicon in the "cold/intake side" will need to be fuel resistant. Unless you go for an EFI or blow through setup. I'm not sure if the carbs you have can/ could handle it or if there is enough knowledge on setting the carbs up correctly.

is that the 28th of this month??

To be honest mate, to allow others a better idea of what you require in assistance can you please take a photo of the ECU serial number, also of the type of dash you have as there are 2 different S13/180sx dashes. Also can you take a pic of the shifter location so that it can be determined if the SR box was used or an RB20 box was used and pic of the speedo sensor as the wiring colours and sender pin outs are different between the models just to make sure is an S13 box not an S14 box. FYI the speedo sensor is located at the rear of the box on the drivers side it has a 3 pin plug, as well the speedo sensor will be the box other wise it will leak gearbox oil everywhere.

No not all, most Trust turbos like the t518z are bush bearing and nearly all 4wd turbos are bush plus most light trucks and mobile plant and fixed engines are all bush bearing. I personally prefer bush bearing turbos for the couple of 100 rpm gain from ball bearing chra's its not really worth the added money outlay. But again just my personal preference. Unless you want to go down the route of ceramic ball bearing. Now that's an option not for the faint hearted, but cheap options can be found in the Apexi IHI RX6 turbos. These were the developed by IHI for Honda in the 80s and 90s when the F1 used 4 cylinder turboed engines. I'm not sure if you know that your limitation is getting a carbon compressor seal for a draw through system, this is to handle the benzi / petrol going through the compressor housing. I hope this helps

usually people get a set of old front guards cut the arches off and weld them on the rear guards to allow wider wheels and rear diffs