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Are Bumper Bars Needed For Rwc?


love ke70

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can't you just diy for the IC its not that hard, just go and buy a heap of bends and connected and have fun, then you can have the satisfaction of doing some for you self

 

 

I think fabrication is the best part of car modification

Edited by Jason
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there is 2 of them, but no, theyre nothin to get excited about, but i could just remove the waste gate actuator vacuum hose :(

i could see one of those on the 1g in about.....8 years :)

 

You'll probably find the ceramic turbines in the first muffler/cat convertor pretty quick. Even the metal turbine CT12s are only good for something like 1bar (~14psi)

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can't you just diy for the IC its not that hard, just go and buy a heap of bends and connected and have fun, then you can have the satisfaction of doing some for you self

 

 

I think fabrication is the best part of car modification

 

i agree 100% doing it urself is the best bit

and i WAS planning on making my own piping, even found some old pipe out the back of the shed to use, then i went around to get some quotes on silicon reducers and bends

a 3" --> 2" reducer is 25.45

a 2" 90degree bend is 75

considering i need 2 reducers and 5 bends, getting the piping done is actually cheaper

You'll probably find the ceramic turbines in the first muffler/cat convertor pretty quick. Even the metal turbine CT12s are only good for something like 1bar (~14psi)

oh really?

theres so much i need to learn about forced induction....so what sort of turbo would i be looking for to hold silly amounts of boost?

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Something ball bearing (Garrett GT range for instance) is usually the way to go. Its not all about sheer pressure levels. Theres a whole load of other factors that you need to consider. If you wanted to go single maybe try something like a GT2871R or GT2540R but I would do some serious research before you make any decisions.

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ah, so ball bearing turbos are so great because they are good for high psi.

irokin, yes much much research to be done, and before that lots and lots of driving, the 4k still gives me a handful when i try

i love twisty backroads *looks wistfully into the distance* :wink:

 

what sort of factors would we be talking? like a/r ratios whatever they are coz they effect the amount of lag don't they?

i mean the *ultimate* dream would be to run a twincharged system with something in the vicinity of 25psi, but thats a long way off, i don't wanna die just yet :)

but i got munched by a (i think) 98 falcon today with exhaust and body kit goin down a hill, round a roundabout and onto the highway. but i think i held on quite well, coz he went off and i took the same exit and 2 roundabouts later he crossed a double white to go past a truck :( he musta got upset coz i didnt disappear completely, then the truck waved me past a bit later on and i was back with the falcon and i was only out of his mirror once i turned into my street :hmm: the 1g will show him :cool:

all on private roads of course ;)

 

felix, thats exactly right my friend ;)

Edited by love ke70
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aaaaah - to paint or not to paint?

When all is said and done, it's not a foregone conclusion in either direction.

 

An intercooler cools the air inside it by allowing it to heat the metal as it passes through. Passing heat to the metal cools the intake air. To be effective, the intercooler (or radiator - they both work the same, except that it's water, not air, being cooled) has to transfer that heat to the outside air (or water in as water to air cooler) ... it does this wherever the coolant (air in air-to-air, water in air-to-water) comes into contact with the "hot" surface. The purpose of all those fins is to maximise the surface area of "hot" intercooler to "cool" air.

 

When you paint the cooling surface, it is the paint that is now in contact with the cooling air - ie. it can act as an insulator (blanket) if its thermal transfer properties are not that good. You also need to make sure it doesn't obstruct the gaps between the fins - this would decrease the available surface for heat exchanging. However ... you'd have to be pretty heavy-handed with the paint to do this I would've thought.

 

Painting heat exchangers is always going to be a compromise ... it may provide a protective coating, or some stealth benefits, or it might just look better - but probably at some cost to the thermal conductivity of the surface and, therefore, its effectiveness as a heat exchanger. Weigh up the benefits, make your decision.

 

 

 

Oooh - a blanket is an insulator ... no two ways about it! The reason we don't use them to keep us cool during hot weather is not because it wouldn't work, but because we need to cool below our body temperature - and merely insulating ourself from hotter air around us is not going to do that - we need (as you pointed out) the extra (and more effective) cooling that eva[porating perspiration gives us.

 

Take two cold cans of drink ... wrap one in a blanket and plnok them both outside on a hot day ... see which one stays cold longer. Oh wait ... I've just invented the esky!! :P By crikey I'm funny!

 

Shite ... back to work now,

Slapper

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what slapper said is exactly what ive been thinking, he just has a way with words, no paint for me :P

i mean, if i wanted to paint it i could just paint the end tanks and the metal mesh ive put across the front that covers the core, but i don't want to :P

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