You should see if Toy-yoda can get you some mini Rollaclub stickers made up.

 

Will PM him about it when I get this to work, if he's willing (& open to financial offers) I'll do it.

 

And a rule of thumb if after 5 mins of hard driving you can't touch the motor it's wotking too hard.

If after 10 your getting closer and after 15mins you can just, your on the money.

I ran one for 10 mins to hot and the motor died. Then the wait for the replacement.

The more teeth on the motor the slower, the less the faster it goes.

 

Cheers for the advice man, I'll have a play & see what I come up with. :y: My concern other than the heat killing the motor is the fact the motor mount is plastic... :) Next modification is a metal one. ;)

 

Yes, the reflectors are bad news.

Try hitting one at 100K all i can say is duck.

the kid across the road looks funny with his feet above his head when you hit him too.

 

:lolcry:

 

Got some time to fiddle about, gave the plug a quick sand & prime. The join's not 100%, over it.

 

This is how it went:

 

Heated the sheet attached to frame over this.

 

 

Then pressed it over this.

 

 

Then switched on this.

 

 

Got this.

 

 

A little tweaking with the heatgun & I was left with this. :bash:

 

 

Couldn't get enough even heat using this method, so dug out an old BBQ & used that to heat it, got this. Again, made holes due to being a little heatgun-happy.

 

 

Have put some spacers under the plug to try & get it to shape in better towards the bottom. On a side note, haven't had to dismantle the plug to release it so far. Probably because it hasn't worked properly yet. :hmm: Third time lucky?

Edited June 16, 201214 yr by carbonboy

I'm wondering if you need to raise the mould a tad so you get suction underneath it.

Even just screwing in a few screws underneath that stick out 5mm.

I'm wondering if you need to raise the mould a tad so you get suction underneath it.

Even just screwing in a few screws underneath that stick out 5mm.

 

Have put some spacers under the plug to try & get it to shape in better towards the bottom.

 

;)

 

Just started pi$$ing down rain, haven't had a third go yet. Noticing that the shells are thinner & much more flexible than the ones I bought, might investigate using thicker sheets. On the upside, they weigh 3/8's of bugger-all.

Bah, missed that, been a long day. Skim reading :oops:

 

Keep at it, practice makes perfect.

Bah, missed that, been a long day. Skim reading :oops:

Keep at it, practice makes perfect.

 

All good, don't blame you, I talk too f**king much sometimes/usually. :blush:

 

Cheers man, Bundy eases the frustration of being so close yet... *sigh*

 

Another upside, used BBQ to cook dinner. :)

You never get this sort of stuff on the first go, or third.

And the problem might not be heat but unsufficiant vacume. you only get a few seconds before it hardens. or it gets too hot and melts through and you get holes.

Look at maybe adding a second vac to the system to speed up the forming process.

Once you master it use clear.

As I said if you use clear poly cabinate you can paint the inside, then it takes the scratches not the paint.

Tough as too.

Put the stickers on the outside as that way they can be replaced.

 

As far as the plastic engine mount, don't worry about heat, the nylon used takes quite a bit.

The bigger issue is flex.

Just be sure ther isn't enough for it to slip the gears. The metal one solves that. Most of mine are now metal now for that reason.

 

Also when changing Pinion gears get the back lash right or you will either grind them or put un-nesacary load on the motor.

If you can visulise a piece of paper in there, your pretty close.

 

Oh and the kid across the street, his father laughed and told him to get out of the way.

Don't think he had a chance though.

 

Once I finish the real KE25's i might use your ideas to give it a go and make a 1:10 KE25 shell for the Porche.

 

Not sure if i have too many though

(For those counting there is 16 in total on the shelf of all different scales.)

And it all started wiith 1

Any recommendations on where to purchase this material? If I can get some success with this, might have a play with other shapes/materials. Again, cheers for the 'tuning' tips. :y:

 

P.S - You don't have to have the real car finished before you do this, I sure as heck didn't. ;)

 

Had a play with a scrap item to work out where to put holes for the aerial & body posts.

 

I can have lows? :D

 

I know I don't need to wait to finish the real thing but it's all about time and having to many projects at a time.

2 ke25's at once is a big task.

+ last night I discovered for about 40 plus shipping they make a te27 shell in the states.

 

The last attempt looks pretty good.

Another material to try is Lexen.

Even tougher.

 

I'd offer to come over and assist in tuning the chasis if your not to far away.

The easier it is to handle the more fun you have.

And as far as fwd, rwd or 4wd, stick with 4wd. Easier to drive it.

 

If you can afford to get a 2.4 ghz transmitter and recivier do it as then no need for an antenna hole, it will fit inside the shell.

Double post. :(

Edited June 17, 201214 yr by carbonboy

I know I don't need to wait to finish the real thing but it's all about time and having to many projects at a time.

 

The last attempt looks pretty good.

Another material to try is Lexen.

Even tougher.

 

I'd offer to come over and assist in tuning the chasis if your not to far away.

The easier it is to handle the more fun you have.

And as far as fwd, rwd or 4wd, stick with 4wd. Easier to drive it.

 

If you can afford to get a 2.4 ghz transmitter and recivier do it as then no need for an antenna hole, it will fit inside the shell.

 

Sorry man, bad jokes. :blush: I blew a hole on the other side of that one, so it became the one I use to work out where the holes for the body posts go.

 

Definitely thinking thicker material (as well as sticking to 4wd), this is just too thin. As it's a cheap model, there's not much adjustability in regards to suspension etc. :( Looking for adjustable control arms etc down the track. Have a 2.4Ghz transmitter, might abandon that plastic tube for the antenna.

 

Had another crack, this one turned out okay first time around, reheated it (plug & all) & gave it another vacuum. Not sure if I did anything at all there but make another hole. :(

 

 

Pull pins & top half out..

 

 

 

Remove bottom half.

 

 

Now sporting the rear suspension bracket & shocks from the off road truck to allow me to mount body posts for the rear. Dog is unimpressed.

 

 

Want to test it but it's very wet outside at the moment, also needs more low in the rear. Might head to a covered carpark later on.

 

Edited June 17, 201214 yr by carbonboy

Looking better now.

 

Just need to lower the shell over the Chassis so it doesn't look like a 4WD now. :yes:

Yup, that's on the agenda! Going to have to sort the rear body posts out, massive amounts of positive camber & toe-in on the rear wheels due to the changes in suspension setup. But, managed to get out to a covered carpark & go for a test run.

 

http://youtu.be/4Xn-hkw-rIA

The heat-sink/cooling fan for the motor showed up, installed that (thankfully just enough clearance between the motor & centre driveshaft) & have started fiddling about with the rear body posts. While I had the motor out, I found I had the 17 tooth cog already on it... During the test run the motor appeared to be hitting the thermal cutout due to working too hard, I believe this was more than likely caused by the extra friction of the dogbones rubbing on the control arms due to the suspension setup I created. Have solved that problem, I might put the 13 tooth cog on & note the differences.

 

Definitely polycarbonate, for body shell v2.0 (cheers for all your advice/suggestions Gizzys25 :y:). This HIPS is just too thin, you try to pick the car up by the shell & it just collapses in your hand. Also need to smooth up the plug a little, not liking the lines everywhere & work on the detail-stickers. Will bring it to Winterfest with me for a play, hope it doesn't rain!

Unless the motor is a sensored one there is no thermal cutout on the motor and might be the first signs of a dead motor.

The next will be now power to accelerate followed by smoke.

If this is the case I recommend upgrading to a sensored combo. It will protect your inestment.

 

While your at it if you spend a bit more invest in a waterproof one and then you can run it at winterfest in the rain.

Unless the motor is a sensored one there is no thermal cutout on the motor and might be the first signs of a dead motor.

The next will be now power to accelerate followed by smoke.

If this is the case I recommend upgrading to a sensored combo. It will protect your inestment.

 

While your at it if you spend a bit more invest in a waterproof one and then you can run it at winterfest in the rain.

 

F**k.....I'm hoping not, as it has had less than an hours run-time, it's sensorless. Will keep an eye on it for those symptoms, I have the ESC so the new motor by itself might not be so pricey. Unless I have to have an ESC that's compatible with a sensored motor? Not looking to get too financially involved in RC just yet...then again 1 turned into 3 very quickly! :lol:

 

Having re-read the manual to see if it was sensorless or not, I discovered that the sudden lack of/appearance of acceleration could also be caused by having not calibrated the throttle range of the controller...at all. Damned instructions! :blush: