HEY,

 

i have recently purchased a ke70 wagon and upgraded from the stock control arms to sigma control arms. I got given tyre rod ends to fit the sigmas but are to short and i can't get a straight wheel alignment as they just wind off the thread. What tyre rod ends would best suit this so i can get the wheels straight?

 

also I'm looking for a 1.5 - 2 inch drop in the rear i want to flip the leaf springs so it becomes a bit more stiffer rather then getting blocks and still having it bounce around, i have done some research and found that the bottom 1 or 2 will drop it around that height but i just want to make sure that is correct before i do it and what are the steps involved to flip them.

 

thanks.

Not sure what everbody else thinks, I've flipped the leaf's in a ke30, did nothing good for the handling.

 

If you want to lower, get the eye's of the springs reversed.

By flipping the spring you get a flat leaf spring, as the suspension travels down the leaf shackel angle to the spring increases this causes the spring rate to decrease, (try thinking about the distance between the eyes)

 

Never tried lowering blocks so cannot comment on those.

Cheers

Andy

Flipping the leaves won't make it stiffer it will make your car ride like $h1t I had flipped leaves in my 30 had 2leaves flipped and only dropped an inch and even the smallest bump makes it bottom out save the money have the springs reset and get an extra leaf put in I had 2extra put in and the rear is solid

 

Blocks will make the car axle tramp but I would suggest if your gonna do it cheap get blocks don't flip leaves

you could try just flipping the main leaf as that alone should drop the ride hight a bit and just see how it goes (other than that just get the leaves reset to the way you want them its better that way)

You will need tie rod ends from a earlier corolla, which also means trying to find unbent tie rod end tubes as well.

Otherwise AJPS sells the ones you need about $180 though.

I've been in the situation where I wanna low my KE72 Wagon too. Since one side of my leaf spring worn out badly including the rubber bushing, I end up getting my self a locally made brand new leaf spring. I'm happy with the new leaf spring now.. is just that I'm not getting enough lowered even with a 3" lowering block..

 

New Leaf Spring

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GHms2jFKDcifrqFGa5dBlkefL4LhXVmzgHMzd-Ilf_I?feat=directlink

 

 

Lowering Block

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/T-S9WffebSRRvwXHNb_Z6kefL4LhXVmzgHMzd-Ilf_I?feat=directlink

take those lowering blocks out straight away and get some proper ones as those look like they are crushing already

Yeah, that doesn't look good. There is tremendous rotational force on the diff when you drop the clutch, so the diff will try to spin inside the U-bolts, and you have given it a lot of leverage with such long bolts. I suppose if it crushes a lowering box it will sway around and you'll feel the car move all over the road. Should be quite a wild ride!

 

Many years ago I converted the 4link in a Stanza rally car to a 5link, and it didn't tear out the rear floor as I worried it would. The rotation torque pushed the lower arms forward and ripped the mounts off the floor.

 

Rob & I took a spare leaf from another leafpack and cut it off just behind the u-bolts, then fitted it upside down in his leafpack. We took out the bottom leaf to keep the leafpack the same height so we didn't change any bolts etc. . It forced the other leaves to sit flatter and acted as an anti-tramp link by stopping them winding up, but his lady gave up motorsport soon after nad we never really sorted it out.