Ke50

Making Door Pods

Recommended Posts

*Please read text, other wise the pictures will not make any sense!

Ok, so I decided i would make this tutorial because i was fitting these speakers i bought into the doors and I didn't really like the idea of just getting spacers and letting the speaker face straight out, which is a waste of sound in my opinion.

 

First off, the materials you will need:

  • MDF sheets (size and thickness dependant on what your building, i used 10mm for the base and 12mm for the rings)
  • A cutting device (hacksaw, jigsaw etc)
  • Dowel or pencils
  • Fabric
  • Fibreglass mat
  • Resin
  • Catalyst
  • Brushes
  • Bog or spakfiller
  • Spray putty
  • Primer
  • Top Coat

CIMG1410.jpg

 

 

 

Mounting Rings

 

Very often, you can simply outline the frame of a speaker with a pencil and use that as your guide to cut.

For the inner diameter cuts, usually the manufacturer of a speaker will give the cutting diameter or radius. If you don't have this information, measure the offset and pencil it is. It is better to cut too little than too much, so if it doesn't fit after your first cut, cut more in small increments or sand down the edges until the speaker fits. You want to make sure the speaker won't fall through the hole, and also that there is wood under each screw hole so you have material to screw into.

 

The Base

 

The base will depend on what size and type of pod you are making, but for most of the flat parts (mainly the base) it is better to make them out of wood, as it will be stronger than fibreglass in this case.

 

CIMG1411.jpg

 

 

 

When you use speaker-mounting rings, you need something to hold the ring in place. Here, i simply used cut pieces of pencil for the tweeters, and dowel for the woofers.

 

CIMG1414.jpg

 

CIMG1420.jpg

 

 

 

I used a hot glue gun to secure these in place, which will also come in handy when you start the fabric process. In terms of the angle you have them facing, I simply used a laser pointer, otherwise a long piece of string can do the same thing.

I need to cut a hole in the bases for my pods so that the magnets could just poke through, while not protruding into the door too much, as a result of the angle I had them on.

 

CIMG1412.jpg

 

 

CIMG1418.jpg

 

 

 

Structure and Fabric

 

Once all is dry, give it a little push and make sure it won't fall apart. This structure is going to be wrapped in fabric, which will need to be pretty tight, and also when the resin is applied the fabric will have a tendency to shrink, which will put more stress on the structure.

 

For the fabric, you can pretty much use anything. Try to avoid anything 100% cotton as it will shrink the most, and anything very thick will absorb allot of resin, which will cost you. The material needs to be decently stretchy, so thin (polyester) fleece is often chosen. I used an old t-shirt. You want to pull the fabric around the front and make it as smooth and seamless as possible. Hot glue or staple the ends to a part of the same that wont be seen later on. Once done, cut away as much excess as possible.

 

CIMG1423.jpg

 

CIMG1424.jpg

 

CIMG1425.jpg

 

 

 

Now that you've got the fabric nice and tight and everything looks the way you want so far, its time for the resin.

 

Fibreglassing

 

CIMG1445.jpg

 

 

 

Always use cheap brushes, as resin is sticky stuff. Cut the bristles down to about half of their original length so that it is easier when ‘jabbing' the resin into the fabric which makes absorb the resin for the first few layers, thus building a strong base.

 

 

 

 

CIMG1446.jpg

 

 

 

When the structure has dried, you can remove the mounting pieces (the pencils). Fibreglass was laid on the inside of the enclosure. Once fibreglass is dry, it is not perfectly smooth and needs to be sanded and covered with body filler in order to get a smooth look. That is why is it better to fibreglass from the inside, rather than the outside, however this is usually not practical in most instances.

 

CIMG1449.jpg

 

 

 

While that resin was drying, get your fibreglass chop mat and cut / rip some pieces. It is often better to rip them, because you will get frayed edges, which conform better to existing pieces. The mat I used was not all that fine, however if the matt you use is, I would use scissors and gloves to cut it.

 

CIMG1453.jpg

 

 

 

First you should put down a layer of resin itself covering the area of mat you have divided up, and then you can proceed to place the mat on top, followed by another layer or resin. Is it possible to apply 3 successive layers before you should allow the previous layers to dry if more is needed.

 

CIMG1452.jpg

 

 

 

I used chop matt for this application, however you can use weave matt if required, which will not need as many layers, although it wont be able to adhere to tighter corners/bends as the chop matt.

It is also important that you get as many bubbles out of the matting as you can, as this seriously weakens the structure.

 

Cleaning/Painting

 

Then its time to clean up all the excess resined fabric or fibreglass with a hacksaw/angle grinder etc, ready to prep for painting.

At this point it is a good idea to test fit the speakers and make sure that they don't foul on anything in the car or the pod itself, so you can make changes before you start the prep work.

So what you are left with is resin-coated fabric on the outside of the pod, which in most cases will go slightly bumpy. You will be able to sand most of these out (although sanding fabric may sound a bit silly), and then fill the rest of the divots with bog or spakfiller.

I found that you can use 120 grit regular painters sand paper for the whole job, and then use spray putty to get an even better finish.

 

CIMG1609.jpg

 

 

 

Once you have the right sort of finish you can give it a few coats of primer as contrary to common belief, spray putty actually requires a primer before you can top coat it.

I simply used a high gloss black acrylic lacquer as I user an acrylic primer, although this is up to you.

 

CIMG1611.jpg

 

 

 

The finished product:

CIMG1612.jpg

 

CIMG1614.jpg

 

 

 

As soon as I have fitted these I will post up info on how I fitted them etc.

Edited by Ke50

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Members dont see this ad

looks damn nice man

 

ive also seen a thread somewhere before saying to lay foil on the door pod and fiberglass over that to get the shape of the door card correct.

 

but i rekon that works better for fidly area. love your way for it more

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sheeze!

they look awesome dude!

great write up to :P

 

edit:spelling like a moron lol

Edited by love ke70

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
looks damn nice man

 

ive also seen a thread somewhere before saying to lay foil on the door pod and fiberglass over that to get the shape of the door card correct.

 

but i rekon that works better for fidly area. love your way for it more

 

yes, that is more for situation when you moulding the pods into kick panels etc. so you don't get resin onto your carpet/other panels as it can soak through the masking tape.

however i am just putting these into the doors, so just making a small hole in the door card and vinyl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sick post man, i'm eager to try and make a centre console for the subaru incorporating another monitor and a speaker or 2. cheers dude!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:P :P ;) :hmm: ;)

 

5 PAW Rating! :D

 

I'm pinning this thread. Tom, that is excellent! They came up a real trick! Now to hear what those Kenwoods sound like ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just saw these in Autobarn for $15 (a pair)

comes in 6-1/2", 5-1/4" and 6x9"

 

just thought this would probably save a great deal of time when making pods etc.

post-338-1138257054_thumb.jpg

Edited by rwdrolla

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just saw these in Autobarn for $15 (a pair)

comes in 6-1/2", 5-1/4" and 6x9"

 

just thought this would probably save a great deal of time when making pods etc.

 

haha yea, i saw these while i was in the middle of making them. but i probably made a whole pod for around the same price. certainly an option though.

 

thanks for all the comments so far gy the way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and hey presto!

CIMG1631.jpg

sorry it took so long to get the pics up guys.

Edited by Ke50

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes, however you have to use some sort of spacer between the cards and the screw head, so it doesnt pull through the door card.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now