Are you sure altezza? That's completely contrary to anything I've ever heard/seen done?

 

To which part?

 

I'm not sure if you'd notice a difference with the swaybar gone on gravel/ mud.

 

Longer lca's for sure, castor maxed out, and depending on how far you want to go cut and shut steering arms will provide more lock and faster steering.

 

Also toe greatly dictates how the car drives, so by adjusting the toe you can make the rear come out easier

I reckon it's more fun have an open-wheel diff. All depends on how you are on the Clutch, and having the right momentary body-roll.

 

Open wheelers, Running over dogs in backyards since 2011.

To removing the front and keeping the rear.

 

I reckon you would notice the difference, the body still rolls. Generally gravel cars aren't particularly stiffly sprung.

 

To which part?

 

I'm not sure if you'd notice a difference with the swaybar gone on gravel/ mud.

 

Longer lca's for sure, castor maxed out, and depending on how far you want to go cut and shut steering arms will provide more lock and faster steering.

 

Also toe greatly dictates how the car drives, so by adjusting the toe you can make the rear come out easier

Removing the front swaybar just reduces rear grip. Doesn't really have any effect on steering or handling so much..

 

I'm not a fan though to be honest, yeah the back slides easier but it feels so unsorted and loose

Removing the front swaybar just reduces rear grip.

 

Tricky- I thought 'increases front grip'

 

I know that to get more oversteer I have increased the size of the rear sway bay, +/or 'reduced' the front. I cut the flanges off the roll bar upright pins on the LCA so the bar flopped down over them, then put a pair valve spring in there on each side. So the front could roll a bit as the sway bar compressed the valve springs but it got progressively stiffer. You need that roll to get weight onto the outside front wheel to get grip, but at the back you want the outside wheel to slip sideways.

 

In the end all you can do is try all sorts of combinations.

thanks for the input guys appreciate it ,

its not a real high speed track 1st and 2nd only spinning most of the time,it hasnt really dried out since being built .really soft in spots but will only get better as we go.

the main corner is a big righthander which is being extended into a full 180degree hairpin,a little downhill in and slight uphill out(can't wait to have a few cans of skill and try that out)

maybe a bald tyre on the left side will help

took the exhaust off at the manifold and dummied up one out plastic pipe and a box ill just take that to the muffler shop and get one made ,don't know whether to run a box muffler or a hotdog ,i don't want it loud but i want to hear it.

it will have about 3ft of pipe from manifold to either box or hotdog,

any thoughts on which would be best,

Tricky- I thought 'increases front grip'

 

If that were the case i fail to see why anyone would put a bigger front swaybar in, as by that wouldn't that mean it'd have less front end grip

muffler all sorted ,doesnt sound half as fast anymore,,take it 4 a few hot laps this arvo to see if performance has dropped.maybe even a night run.

:wub: Love those rims.

I love the pics of the track!

 

 

maybe a few day time shots? Lol...

tracks virtually undrivable cause of the rain so have decided to fit a few tyre walls for safety,,any ideas on tying the tyres together or will i just lace them together,ive got a few stacked around the trees but can't see them doing much if hit

thanks

tie wire for fencing would be the go

hahaha, sweet!