Twinky Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 I am one step away from walking away from the corolla. To no end this car has given me grief. Some of the problems have been my own doing or things I have overlooked, other times it's plain BS! I decided to go back to standard configuration after the other 4k seized up only to be met by more motoring madness. The engine I got was from a running KE70 and still had all the bits and bobs bolted on including the manifolds. I did not want to take the manifolds off because I would have been making more work for myself, at least thats what I thought. Because the KE70 exhaust is slightly different I had to cut and weld a section to bolt to the rear half of the KE55 exhaust. I fitted the engine, bolted everything on, wired it all up, fed all the fuel and air lines. All good!!! Time to crank over!! Wobble wobble went the fuel pump. So I unbolted the fuel pump to see what the hell was going on and a chunk of the engine block came along with it, FCUK! Ok no biggie, I have a facet pump that I'll just bolt up and she'll be right. I connect up the pump and have it go through the KE70 mechanical pump because it has a return line on it that acts like a pressure regulator. All good!!! Time to crank over!! BANG!!! the ʞ©$ɟing carby is alight!!! First time in my life I have seen a carby catch alight after a backfire. Anyway, I get a new carby and set it up again. Fires up first turn YAY!!! Oh wait, sounds like a rotary with an exhaust leak ʞ©$ɟ MY LIFE!! I take off the manifold and see that the inlet exhaust gasket isn't sealing properly because the KE70 exhaust manifold have rusted away. To top it off the gasket in between the intel and exhaust ie the inlet heater is fubar. Ok, ʞ©$ɟ it back to my extractors. So I re weld the exhaust again and bolt on the extractors and inlet. Turn the key and YAY it starts first turn again and does not have that distinct exhaust leak sound, but wait it still sounds a bit like a rotray or some sort of aggressive cam. I first thought, maybe someone worked the motor but to my dismay it went pretty slow. I checked the compression on each cylinder and all came up around the 155 psi mark, timing was fine. Iv'e noticed that the rockers are sounding a bit clattery so I'll be setting the gap again later tonight but I am sceptical about it fixing the issue. What else could be causing this thing to run so crap? Could it be the carby? Now when I say it runs like crap it not soo much runs like crap but more so sounds like crap. It has a smooth yet slow power delivery. I don't know maybe it's just me and I can't remember just how slow a 4k is but it seems too slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhmills Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 It sounds like my old 4AC, had the same issue, turns out the inlet had cracked somehow. Sounded like a rotary, would go like shit at low rpm, but wasn't noticeable in the higher rpms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I've had a crack in the inlet before but it still ran well, it was just a pain to start up and idle properly. Mine idles fine and starts up first turn just sounds a bit lumpy and has no guts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springersrolla Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Spark plug or firing order??... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Start from scratch, once again.... Timing, tappets, mixture (do a plug cut if no AFM) maybe cam timing if you don't know the absolute history of the motor. Lack of power could be anything, small points gap with retarded timing, too lean, too rich, cama tooth out, tappets not opening valves enough, not enough fuel delivered... What exactly are the symptoms of wrongness and what does it do well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 So far the motor does well at giving me the shites. I may have some more time tonight to do a bit more testing and find out what's wrong and what is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Turns out the points gap was half of what it was supposed to be. Ran a lot more smoother after setting them to 0.4mm. Set all the rocker clearances but I'm still getting a clattering noise just not as loud. Should I set the gap tighter? I set both inlet and exhaust to .20mm because if I set the exhaust to .30mm like it says to do so in the book it makes the clattering noise louder. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 The rocker ends wear into an inverted U-shape as the valve stem tip wears them away, so the feeler gauge bridges the 'U' and gives a false reading. You sett hem to .2mm and the valve stem sees a .35mm gap to close. We used to set them using a dial gauge, a fair bit of messing around but you made the valve open at the correct time no matter what the gap was. The KE70 currently clatters for exactly your reason as I cbf going to all that trouble. Its just one tappet gap that is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I'll set it to half the clearance and see how it goes then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted October 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 Set the clearances all to .1mm and there is only a faint clatter that you can only hear with your head in the engine bay. Woot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 That's very close, only 4thou. The pros & cons are- Big tappets gaps- valves don't open as far, and open late and close early, so they spend more time shut and make the cam less 'cammy'. The exhaust valves get time to cool well by transfering their heat to the seat. The valves get opened and closed more agressively as they are hit by the cam flank more than the ramp and get slapped open and closed.. Small tappet gaps make full use of the cam ramp to open & close gently. The tappets are quieter and the cam more cammy as the valves open earlier and close later. Hence the exhausts spend less time on their seats getting rid of the heat. You also push more compression back out the inlet valves as it closes late. I don't know which factors are important in a 4K, they're pretty under-developed and bulletproof anyway, You could set the tappets with a piece of wire, so it fits in the rocker groove. I've done that before... or get the rockers re-faced. I'll tell you something funny to try- set them using the "rule of nine", so you set rocker #6 with #3 on wide open (easy to see it rocking over the cam nose). and set #4 with #5 wide open.. so they add up to 9. Then check them all by putting each cylinder on TDC and checking the gaps. Both methods are widely used but give different results! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 I'll see what Increasing the exhaust clearance will do, if it's noisy I'll go back to what I set it. Now the motor has two lingering problems that may or may not be bad. Problem No1: The car seems to overheat. The engine has the stock fan bolted to the water pump but the fan shroud has been removed. If I am running the engine with just the engine fan it goes almost to the top of the engine temp display but not too close to the red zone. I'f I put on my thermo fan which is bolted to the front of the radiator the engine temp goes down to 3/4 so it's still quite hot. One thing to note is that the water temperature sensor is from a KE70 but using the KE55 meter. Was the KE70 sensor different to the KE55 sensor?? Problem No.2 The carby is running too lean on takeoff and too rich on cruise and mid - full throttle. On takeoff my EGO reads a spike of about 16:1 which could just be that the response time of fuel getting down the throat is quite bad and then it goes as rich as 9:1. The carby is a KE70 carby with lots of bits missing. Being in a KE55 most of the ports in the carby have been blocked off because I have no freaking idea what to do with them apart from that. So basically the car is gutless until it hits 3,000rpm. Even then I rarely take it above 3,500rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 lol! OK, put a 100deg thermometer in the radiator and see what the temp really goes up to when idling. I wouldn't trust the sensor or the guage really, unless it was non-electrical. Ours never goes above the 1/3 mark on the gauge, having been through the hassles of wires and sensors and new sensors that don't work.. Which I found out by using a thermometer! Measure the cold & hot resistance of the sensor in a saucepan with a multimeter and compare that to the maker's specs. What AF ratio is it idling at?? The idle circuit feeds the motor up to 2500rpm or thereabouts, so it has a long effect. Also, can you see the effect of the pump jet when you boot it? An instant lean then very rich then back to normal step up and down. Taking off means the pump should make it instant rich to help the idle jet get it moving up to where the main circuit cuts in. Then cruise should be just the main circuit controlling it, which is fuel jet, air jet and float level. If its rich, say more fuel than 15 or 16 to 1, you should tackle that problem first- wrong fuel jet? Air jet blocked? Float level too high? That's the main (and simplest) part of a carb's work. The SUs cruise at 100kph at 16 to 18 and will go up a slight incline at that if I just squeeze the throttle. Once you have constant throttle cruise sorted then tackle the idle and acceleration. Do you think the second throat is working on your rich mid-full throttle? Hard to check unless you take the bonnet off I suppose, although a webcam under the bonnet is good... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 I think my luck is turning for the better. After failing to pinpoint the carny issue I thought I'd take a trip down to u-pull it and see what was around. There was one ke70 that still had it's carby in one piece but it was covered in oil and there was little of the metal showing. At that point I remembered something posted in the FAQ section. The Nikki carb! So off I went trawling the yard looking for an old school Gemini. The first one I found had the exact carburetor that I needed but the car had been parked into a wall and it was nearly impossible to reach the bolts. The carny was pretty clean too, no oil, no dirt, no dust almost like new actually. So I went in search of an easier target. 15 mins of looking and I found only one other Nikki carb and it was in pieces. Damn. Well I bit the bullet and had a go at the crashed Gemini . Two bolts were piss easy but the two on the ceased side I could not possibly get the spanner to turn in the amount of space I had. By chance I knocked the spanner on the corner of the nut and it turned! YAY! I got a flat head screwdriver out and at 1/8th of a turn at a time I got the last two bolts off because they weren't put on tight!. I got home and 30 mins later I fired it up and vroom it burst into life! The Nikki carb is definitely way better than the crappy aisin carb. It pulls very strong, even to the point of being quicker than my stock 5k was. I'll take a pic later to show you guys how dodgey I am :) Ps ʞ©$ɟ auto correct on this I-crapp. Definitely going galaxy next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Awesome! And yeah fcuk iPones, Android Galaxys FTW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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