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Luk3333's 1982 Ke70


luk3333

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I've decided to make a build thread for my corolla and introduce myself now that it is finally getting rego 2 months after its purchase. My name is Luke, I'm starting uni at UTS studying mechanical and this is my Ke70 and our story.

 

I bought the Ke before i sold my 2002 Mazda 323 and after the first week and only week of driving it i wasn't sure whether to keep it. Moving from having a newish car I wasn't used to the idea that rust, rips, tears panel damage and a heater stuck on hot in summer were normal. In the last two months of preparing for blue slip (car was vic rego'd) and watching the car move towards a "stock-ish" appearance I have decided i love it and want to work on it for at least a few good years.

 

Upon purchase the car had the following features: Locked diff (woo!), no rear springs and straight pipe (noo!) , and the front half was sprayed matt black over multicoloured panels (um?). Bought it anyway because I don't like to think too much before big purchases.

 

In the last two months i had bought a set of springs off Love Ke70 for the rear and then promptly removed one coil off them since it looked ridiculous up in the air, had granny spec muffler put on it (just for blueslip), bought a set of gold 5 spoke CSA's 14x6 +12 (i think) with decent tyres. Funnily enough on the way home one of the tyres on the oem stockies decided to delaminate, scare the absolute sh!t out of me and ruin a hard line. So i limped home with next to no brakes, using the hand brake to slow down and leaving a brake fluid trail behind me. Now the front is also a shade of baby blue and the car is for the most part legal (mechanic said he would pass locker :P) its going in for blueslip at 7:30am this saturday.

 

I'm quite good with my hands and am learning arc welding and saving for a mig. I hope to do as much work myself as possible and fabricate a lot myself. My initial plans for the car are:

 

Engine/ driveline:

* 5sp + manual conversion ( car was born an auto) (purchased)

*heavy duty clutch

*machined/lightened flywheel

* 34 ADM weber rejetted myself hopefully (purchased not installed)

* Extractors (arranged)

* Y branch to dual silencer and shotgun exhaust

* 270 cam regrind

 

Suspension:

* Ae86 struts, brakes, etc (arranged)

* Coilovers ( looks like Bc's (heard good and bad) or AJPS (expensive, but sound like better quality)

* Bushs

* Sways bars

* Adjustable Panhard (purchased)

 

Interior:

* Delete carpet, paint floor gloss black

* Flat door cards, black vinyl

* Dash and plastics in black

* black seat covers for now

* Tacho, oil pressure/temp, water temp, AFR

* GK tech wheel

 

Later in the year i want to rebuild a 4k for high revs and bore it out to a 5k if possible. New pistons, balance everything, shave head (10.5 / 11 CR, Upped the 323 from 9.8 to 10.2 and it was awesome ), valve springs, port polish etc run toluene or ethanol fuel mix and aim for 120hp. All at the cost of reliability, but just for fun :P. If still have it off my P's either 4agte or SR20Det. Maybe an Rb20/26det if i feel daring, haven't looked into it much.

 

My goal for this car is a somewhat reliable street car that i can take to track days, gymkhanas and (atleast wet) skid pan days.

 

Not worried about paint or expensive wheels too much as I'm probably going to dent/scratch/bash/crash it anyway haha but if i did work on body work this is hat i'd be going for:

 

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And here as mine was bought:

 

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Fixed the paint up:

 

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CSA's:

 

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and my ADM 34:

 

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Edited by luk3333
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  • 2 weeks later...

Short update, big update after this weekend or next.

- Zeitronix AFR sensor arrived

- Redline adaptor plate arrived (should have made my own up, super simple...)

 

Need to buy jets and an air filter still.

 

When i get the K50 and bits either this weekend it will be converted to manual asap, then carbie and AFR meter installed. Next on the list is coilovers (probably BC since it has warranty, camber tops included and cheap as), then cam and a tacho with DIY limiter as seen on rolla club (can't remember the member who posted it but its a good idea ;) )

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Been slack as updating this with pics, but i haven't been slack working on the car :P

 

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This how the car sits at the moment. Up the front it's running cut and shut control arms.

 

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They were extended 25mm if i recall correctly. Arc'd by my mate with the lowest amperage stick we could find. Its got a piece of 20mm square box with a 3mm plate welded down one side to reinforce it and make a snug fit. This was half way between the length of a stock control arm and a S13 arm.

 

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This is with an S13 arm.

 

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And this is the S13 they came out of. The castor rod mounts were snapped out of the arm, soo he bought R32 ones and repaired the S13 ones as spares. Currently has a stuffed CA18DE, miss fires and bogs down like mad down low. He's swapping to SR20DE (if you can point me in the direction of one and the manual box, pm me), putting grizzly's 16x8 +0 and repainting the previous owners garage spray job. Thinking of grabbing the CA when it comes out for a CA conversion later on, hmm..

 

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Manual conversion is complete, basicallly. still no speedo but yea, you get that.

 

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This is the wiring from the auto selector. Joing the two black and white wires to trick it into thinking its in park, the green one should be 12v when lights on and one of the red/blue ones is a 12v on accessory. The black one isn't a ground... Just for reference.

 

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This is the carbie adaptor for the 32/36 which doesn't work for 34adm... still waiting on longer studs to arrive, gonna bust a nut soon. Also thinking about running dual asains and making a manifold.. probably just a pipe dream though ( get it?)

 

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This is my $99 toolex drill press, does the job. And my 180amp mig. Good little unit, seems to do everything i need it to do. gas/gasless, solid core flux core, spool gun compatible..

 

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First try at welding flux core and using mig, pretty messy... by the end of putting the headers in I was a bit better lol. Found using gas is HEAPS neater and better.

 

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Super unequal length headers. Major crush bends. Poop. But will have to do for now. I'd like to make up my own headers out of mandrels now that I have the mig.

 

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Cut a 25mm diameter hole and welded in an oxy bung.

 

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This is the Zeitronix AFR gauge. Really neat kit from the US. I chose to get it with the "hacker/tweeker" display which is just a 3 digit lcd display 16mmx40mm. Low key and simple. The kit came with everything needed: bosch oxy sensor, heaps of length of wire, lots of instructions, and it also can be used as a data logger. This is the ZT-3, which only does AFR and costs $160 including sensor. The Zt-2 also logs data but for AFR, fluid pressure and tempreture and EGT, rpm, tps, boost and vacuum making it a very versatile unit for about $300. I'm starting a blog/ shop about diy car building and tuning and I'm thinking about keeping a few of these on hand to sell considering how neat the kit is.

 

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I also have a set of P/S ae86 arms, calipers, struts, rotors for a conversion once funds are adequate again. I also got some m14 rod and long nuts to lengthen my steering arms so I can run S13 arms.

 

Thats pretty much it. The dash and interior is slowly being converted to black and it looks rad. Paint is stuffed as ever and will need attention. When the blog/ shop is ready I'll chuck up a link in here, if thats not cool mods just pm me :)

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Nice AFR unit- With your twin Aisins you just stick two oxy sensors in and fit a switch to read between them.

 

The idea really suits variable jet carbs like the SUs or Mikunis, where you can make you own needles to get a good AFR in all parts of the rev range.

 

I'm looking forward to see what readings you get once you have the Weber sorted.

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I've down jetted it, but if i understand right, due to the big throats/ low air speed its either going to run lean on idle and stoich at running or stoich at idle and rich at running put simply.

 

I saw what you did in your build for the Girls's Ke70 with the twin oxy sensors and its quite clever. Is yours wide band? because my O2 sensor is 6 wire I'm pretty sure.. well a few wires so switching between sensors might require more than a switch

 

Currently on idle I get 14:1 so a touch rich, and about 13:1 when cruising

Edited by luk3333
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