Funnily enough, not really. Shiny takes effort to keep shiny! :P

 

Which is why I'm slightly annoyed I was sent a polished FPR instead of the black one I asked for, however it is about twice the price of the one I paid for so *meh*, I'll deal with it. Stuffed around getting fittings etc today, all sorted. Air filters arrived over a week earlier than quoted, so it's good times all around! :yes:

 

 

When converting from EFI to carburetor, the problem remains of what to do with the injector ports in the cylinder head. You can tap a thread & put a bolt in, but that makes returning the head to EFI at any stage somewhat difficult. You can buy injector port plugs from Techno Toy Tuning (T3), but at $25 for a set of four plus $25 postage from the USA...pass thanks! Some old cylinder head bolts, a raid of the o-ring kit & some fiddling in the shed later.....DIY/tightarse FTW!

 

 

No more protrusion than a standard fuel injector, perfect!

 

 

Edited January 3, 201412 yr by carbonboy

Chugging my way through the list of little things yet to do, getting there!

 

 

DIY injector port plugs fitted, all are a snug fit but with a dab of silicone to make sure.

 

It's little things like this I tend not to pick up on until I'm actually doing it, single-cam top, twin-cam bottom. Many thanks go to webers4x48 for hooking me up with the inlet/outlet!

 

 

 

Slight differences, but enough to be unable to re-use BT's items, single-cam top, twin-cam bottom.

 

 

 

Cylinder head inlet near water pump, twin-cam left, single-cam right.

 

 

 

 

Rear outlet.

 

 

Coolant pipes connected.

 

 

Intake manifold final test fit.

 

Edited December 28, 201312 yr by carbonboy

Fiddling around today making a bracket/protective cover for the electric fuel pump, working out where/how to mount it took a while, there isn't much room under there! It's going to be mounted up between the fuel tank & the rear control arm mounts, would be much easier to mount it near the back of the car on the passenger side but it's higher from the bottom of the fuel tank than I would like & also sticks out like dogs balls. Not what I want.

 

The last major thing that needed doing - complete! Brand new clutch is going on, just an OEM item as the heavy-duty was out of budget but we shall see how it goes. This is a daily-driver after all...*cough*

 

It's about time I put this in I think, just a standard Twin Cam item, while the exhaust is out & everything...

 

 

Last wreckers run of 2013 today, grabbed all the little bits I need to GET THIS THING IN. Front swaybar/control arm links, front/rear engine mounts that aren't shagged & an oil cooler line/sump banjo fitting.

 

 

This time last year I was swapping gearboxes in Blue Thing, kicking it up a notch this year! Have a safe one people. :yes:

Wasn't happy with the 6mm fuel line from the tank, yanked the 8mm one I have in amongst my Twin Cam spares & that's going in. Makes hooking the pump up a lot less complicated as a bonus.

 

The 2A-C alternator is being reused, mainly because I lack the funds for a 4A-GE alternator/bracket/wiring plug. Courtesy of a power steering pump bracket from a V30 Camry, the alternator is now living on the intake side. Just a little 'customising' to get the adjustment bracket to fit & it should be photo worthy. While rummaging through my spares I found an intake-side starter motor, hoping more rummaging will dig up the matching gearbox cover-plate or that idea goes out the window. The heat from the headers on the starter motor kinda concerns me, I know AE82's with a C50 gearbox had the starter on the exhaust side, but they had a little heat shield, my 2A-C starter doesn't have a place to bolt one.

 

It's a lot of mucking about, but much easier to dummy this stuff up when it's on a stand & not in an engine bay!

Edited January 3, 201412 yr by carbonboy

 

 

 

 

 

I approve this product or service.

but they had a little heat shield, my 2A-C starter doesn't have a place to bolt one.

 

Step 1: Dismantle starter motor.

 

 

Step 2: Mark/drill/tap thread for bolt.

 

 

Step 3: Make sure bolt is cut to length & use compressed air to clean out all swarf/debris.

 

 

Step 4: Pretty much any appropriately sized heat shield from starter motors at the wreckers will suffice. No idea what this one came off, sorry.

 

 

Step 5: Bolt on. Not the be all & end all of solutions, but it should help the starter motors life.

 

 

Looks the goods, hope it works!

Shouldnt there be more of an air gap between the shield and the starter? Maybe space the shield out with some washers?

I'm hoping it works! :yes:

 

The air gap crossed my mind, those blue rubber things pressed against whatever starter-motor it was on, so I just copied that. Might see how it goes with the headers once in the engine bay, I'm using 20v Blacktop headers which are slightly different to the 16v item, suffice to say it's tight near the starter-motor. If I can get more of a gap, I will. :y:

 

Alternator setup (the easiest option is to obtain a 4A-GE alternator/bracket/wiring plug, but, if you have to):

 

V30 Camry power-steering pump bracket, bolts straight up.

 

 

Made a spacer plate from 6mm steel, which was bitch to cut with a hacksaw I might add. If Hitachi would deliver the replacement brushes for my grinder that I ordered 5 weeks ago, that'd be great. Drill/tap holes to attach standard Twin Cam adjustment bracket.

 

 

Bolt on standard adjustment bracket, bolting it to the standard location is close but no cigar.

 

 

Attach alternator, minor wiring loom changes required but simple really. Please note you need to grind the front/drivers-side side of the alternator bracket down 1mm & use washers on the rear/passenger-side of the bracket to ensure the drive-belt lines up straight.

 

 

Blue Thing will wear these badges with pride!

 

Edited January 3, 201412 yr by carbonboy

I suppose I'd better do something about that battery tray...

 

 

Rust converter, how I missed ye'...

 

 

Primer.

 

 

It sure as heck isn't a perfect match, but it was sitting in the cupboard & is close enough. Better than rust at any rate!

 

 

While interrupted by rain, sorted out the vacuum distribution block & mounting. A piece of scrap steel & a recycled air-conditioning bracket later, done.

 

 

I've been saying this to myself the last few days, but hopefully engine in tomorrow...

 

*sigh*

Nope, maybe tomorrow.

 

Buuut, I did strip down the carburetors, gave them all a good clean out & reassembled them. All the moving parts felt better than before, so I can only believe I didn't stuff up.

 

 

Another benefit of doing this was I got myself an education on carburetors, the terminology & what does what. Having never dismantled one, let alone four, things make a lot more sense now. While they were dismantled, courtesy of the kit I got with the carbs I swapped the 140 Main jets to 160 & the 35 Idle jets to 38. A set of 40's would be nice, so would the spare cash to afford a jet drill-set. ;)

 

A big thankyou goes to EvanG for his help, having someone with experience to guide you through the bits you don't quite know about is incredibly useful! :y:

 

Some grinding required on the airbox-half to allow better filter fitment.

 

 

Plenty of room in the filters for longer stacks down the track, the firewall maybe not so much.

 

 

 

 

Once all the brightly coloured stuff goes, I'll be happy.

 

 

 

About the only way I'll be happier is when I'm hearing this running.

 

 

Distributor is next, then engine bay - ho!

 

come a long way dude, grear effort!

*great*