carbonboy Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Some more progress, solved the mystery of how to connect standard accelerator cable to the carburetors. Some re-routing of the cable, one of the standard cable brackets & a DIY bracket later. This may not be permanent, because the pull-wheel thingy that the cable rotates on these is a smaller size than the standard 2A-C item. Another thing on the 'Get it running, then fine-tune' list, it's becoming a big list! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) All the things need to be put back together, but it functions. My wiring checked out okay, the fuel pump priming itself scared the crap out of me but the only leak I've discovered so far was a slight coolant weep on on of the heater hoses. Fixed by tightening the hose clamp properly. Going to wrap the chrome fuel pressure gauge in black tape, it sticks out too much. Tomorrow it's plug in the MSD & play time, with the aim of being able to turn the thing over by or on this weekend. :) Edited January 21, 2014 by carbonboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Laptop Tuning: Doing it wrong. So far, the photo below shows what I've managed to come up with so far. Need to go back & do some more reading, got a nagging feeling something's not right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Respect for that shit. I'm terrified of aftermarket engine management. Maybe not the price just the fact I'd wanna do it myself Props cuz! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 (edited) Cheers mate, I'll let you in on a little secret: It terrifies the hell out of me too! Had a break yesterday from working on it, had zero motivation so I took the hint & caught up on some sleep. I'm not back at work full-time until the first week of February (which sucks), but as soon as I can afford it, a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge is on the shopping list. This be the one on the cards: http://www.innovatem...oducts/MTXL.php . It sounds a little silly at first, but I want to spend as little time on a dyno as possible, because dyno time costs money, the more basic stuff I can do beforehand the better. :) Edit: So far, the photo below shows what I've managed to come up with so far. Need to go back & do some more reading, got a nagging feeling something's not right. I worked out what that nagging feeling was, I was going to lock the distributor at 10 degrees BTDC to get it running. What I need to do is turn the distributor to what will be maximum (around 28 degrees BTDC) advance & then program the curve to retard the timing from that, I was approaching it kinda arse-backwards. I love it when things finally 'click'. Edited January 24, 2014 by carbonboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Bugger it, a MAP sensor's going in, matching up the wiring is easy in this case. Ignition Curve Version 1.1, feeling a little more optimistic about this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) Cheers mate, I'll let you in on a little secret: It terrifies the hell out of me too! Had a break yesterday from working on it, had zero motivation so I took the hint & caught up on some sleep. I'm not back at work full-time until the first week of February (which sucks), but as soon as I can afford it, a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge is on the shopping list. This be the one on the cards: http://www.innovatem...oducts/MTXL.php . It sounds a little silly at first, but I want to spend as little time on a dyno as possible, because dyno time costs money, the more basic stuff I can do beforehand the better. :) Edit: I worked out what that nagging feeling was, I was going to lock the distributor at 10 degrees BTDC to get it running. What I need to do is turn the distributor to what will be maximum (around 28 degrees BTDC) advance & then program the curve to retard the timing from that, I was approaching it kinda arse-backwards. I love it when things finally 'click'. It all becomes easy the second and third time you do them. Those innovate wide bands can't be beat for dollar verses performance. Just bought two myself, the inbuilt controller and E85 compliant were what sold me. FYI they read every bit as fast as the $400-700(AUS made)Tech edge ones. I would have done the ignition map the same as your first one. Every setup/tune I've seen done or done myself has started with initial base timing, then done the advance curve. But hey, what ever works I spose. Good to see your getting your head around it, there is a chance I'll have to do one of these things soon, so this thread will help with those why can't I get it right moments! You may end up getting the "so why is this msd thing doing this?" Phone calls. Haha. Edited January 25, 2014 by kickn5k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) Good to hear the Innovate item has some endorsement! :) The thing that took me the longest to work out was the graph isn't showing/controlling timing advance from 0 TDC, it's showing/controlling the degrees of timing retard from maximum advance. So if I lock the distributor at 10 degrees BTDC, I can only retard it from there, so I lock it at maximum advance (which is rotating the rotor shaft clockwise one tooth to get 27.69lotsofnumbers degrees advance) then the MSD retards it from that. So all those numbers are subtracted from 28 (shown on the graph as 0) to give the degrees BTDC, kinda makes sense? :hmm: Phone calls welcome, I've bugged enough people along my way here! :yes: Edited January 25, 2014 by carbonboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 MAP sensor wired in & working, hidden under the intake. Takes its feed from the vacuum distribution block, with a line for the pollution gear vacuum switch tee'd in. The world works in funny ways, originally put there for lolz, differences in muffler-flange offsets meant I actually had no choice. Completed wiring is completed. Then this happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67Rolla-Ken Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 hmm... how bad is not good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Only a flat battery not good, it had enough to spin the engine with no compression, but as soon as it needed some 'oomph', it had nuthin'. :lol: Take 2 in the daylight when the battery has some more electrons. My bystanders with the fire extinguisher told me I had no bad sounding noises when it was briefly cranking, so that's a good sign. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67Rolla-Ken Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Good to hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skellington Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 -Awaits more electrons- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azza91 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 so has it fired to life yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Nope, not through lack of trying, drained the battery trying, it's on charge again. Couldn't work out why it wasn't starting, so checked fuel - all good, air - plenty, spark - ..... Did the MSD check-coil procedure, have spark. I then noticed that I had connected the pickup wires to the distributor wrong, corrected that & still nothing. Changed the MSD pickup settings from Hall to ECU...hello, we have an RPM signal when cranking. :) Using a timing light I couldn't see the crank pulley notch while cranking but at least it flashed. Playing with adjusting the distributor rotor shaft to advance/retard timing, ran out of battery power again. :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.