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Blue Thing: The Daily / Motorkhana Hack (Now Efi)


carbonboy

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Cheers Aaron, best feeling ever! :yes:

 

I tried the tacho-booster as described by The Witzl on a ToyMods thread ( http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/22574-how-tacho-booster.html ) but instead of the tachometer flickering from 500 - 1,000rpm at idle then when revved going to zero...it just sat at 0. I'm sure I connected everything correctly, then some clever fellow on Facebook mentioned something about a single resistor method, so that's next on the list of things to try. Tweaking the air/fuel mixtures is the priority, I can survive without the tachometer for a little while.

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Yes mate, running in a fresh engine rich, can f'@k it just as quick as running it lean.

 

 

Great job mate!

 

Cheers, it feels bad (ditching the EFI) but it feels so good! My perspective on induction has changed somewhat.

 

Better get it tuned right before the first motorkhana of the year

 

I'd better do it sooner than that, if I can't do the minimum run-in distance before the 23rd Feb (Pakenham is Round 1), I won't be entering. Fear of suffering from the Red Mist & doing engine damage is the main reason. Ol' mate Murphy & I don't get along at the best of times, not taking my chances. :no2:

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Carbs are all well and good, but you can't beat the turn key simplicity of a well setup EFI. Starts first time every time is pretty nice on a cold wet morning when you have to get to work, or you have to get the kids somewhere. I realise a good electronic ignition helps there too though.

 

But optimising mixtures through the driving range is pretty simple with EFI, lot harder to achieve with carbs which get out of synch etc etc.

 

But for the motivated enthusiast with a wonder dog, they are unbeatable!

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Carbs are all well and good, but you can't beat the turn key simplicity of a well setup EFI.

 

Completely agree, But the sound...

 

I made some room in my budget for the O2 wideband, ordered it on Friday afternoon, it was at my door from Queensland on Monday morning. :blinks:

 

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The hardest part was working out where to put it, several locations were considered but most of them meant I couldn't see it while driving, it stuck out like the proverbial dogs-bits or meant cutting metal bits/air-ducts. The choke cable had to move, it's going to be mounted in the lower panel forward of my left knee where it isn't in the way & I can still get to it easily. Didn't want to put holes in trim-pieces in odd locations, but needs must. I've also discovered the slide on the carburetors needs a return spring, since the cable has to come off anyway, while I'm there...

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True, getting 20v ITB's to work nicely on a 16v engine could be an expensive challenge. Hanging Rock this Sunday has been postponed, which is a little disappointing but at least it's not me changing BT's finish deadline this time! :laff:

 

Not looking forward to being on the hot concrete pulling the exhaust off this afternoon, but I need to sort the muffler flange tapping the fuel tank (yikes!) & weld a bung in for the O2 sensor. Wanted to use the standard location, but on these headers that would only give me a reading on two cylinders. Not ideal.

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Solved the exhaust rattles, turns out I'd installed the catalytic converter upside-down, so from there on it was just that little bit out of alignment. :blush:

 

Bung for O2 sensor in, not too bad for a cheap arc welder & someone who only half-knows what they're doing.

 

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Also found that the throttle cable is stuffed. Found spare TC item, there be a fair difference in length (TC shorter) so working out new setup.

 

1617597_10151954836201943_476723018_o.jpg

 

Once that's done, can start putting it all back together again. :)

Edited by carbonboy
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It lives again, been a fun couple of days. Got the wideband hooked up, all is good there. Until I started the car, even with the 'starter enrichener' (it's not a choke as such, it allows more fuel in rather than restrict air, but for the sake of easy conversation, "choke") on it was reading 18 - 19 & maxed out 22.4 when the throttle was touched. So, out come the carbs, fuel bowls off & jets out.

 

Drilled out my idle jets from 38 to 42-ish & main jets from 160 to 185-ish. Bolted it all back on, primed the fuel system...fuel pissing out of the needles in the throat. Too much fuel pressure, so I wound the regulator back as far as it could go. no more pissing out of the needles & at 2.5psi when the engine is running. The air/fuel gauge is now reading 10 - 11 but on the bright side, it does lean out to 15-ish now when I back off the throttle. Took it for a drive to the TCCAV Meeting tonight (mainly to prove that I haven't been AWOL for no reason), she is running rich as hell but I have another set of main jets that will probably end up being 175's & we'll see what the wideband says.

 

The new throttle cable setup feels much better, can actually tell where the full throttle point is now. Takes a lot more force to push the pedal than standard, but you can almost feel the throttle butterflies opening through your foot, liking it so going to leave it as is.

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Pulled the carbs off again yesterday & swapped the 45-ish idle jets for a set of 38's, left the 185-ish main jets in & reduced the idle mixture screws from 2.5 turns out to 2. Air/fuel ratios are now much better at idle, reading around 11.5 - 12.4 on the wideband, goes to 13.5 - 14.1 at what I think is half to two-thirds throttle then with a sudden back off it goes out to 18 - 19. Along with the huge reduction in clouds of fuel smoke coming out of the exhaust, I think I'm somewhere in the ballpark. I should emphasize that my carburetor knowledge is quite limited, so I'm sort of feeling my way in the dark here. I've also never been pushed back into the seat in BT as much as now, goes quite alright now.

 

Still a few niggles to sort out:

 

- Starter motor is either dead or suffers from heat-soak. Swapping to a standard GE starter, could fit a reduction type but it means swapping the engine/gearbox sandwich plate thingy, pass thanks.

- Wire resistor into MSD tachometer feed-standard tachometer feed wire. The Witzl method didn't work for me, so Plan B it is.

- Speedometer is still on the high side, only about 10km/h now.

- Muffler rubs on rear swaybar/rear lower control arm, makes a large thump noise over bumps, not a fan. Could be a big hammer job, could a cut/shut exhaust pipe job.

- Better tyres.....these cheapy tyres were okay with a 2A-C power level & no-front-swaybar body-roll. Now, they suck noticeably. Thankfully I have found someone selling some Toyo Proxes in 14" for a good price, so once payday rolls around they will be going on.

Edited by carbonboy
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