Lots Of Ke55 Sedan Questions

[Bushpig]

Disclaimer: I am brand new to cars and have no previous mechanical experience so all of this is a big learning curve for me. That being said I am a fast learner though and have spent many many hours reading through posts on here and on toymods. I am a student so funds come in slowly but i plan for this to be a long term project

 

The car is an auto ke55 sedan. My plan for the car is for it to be an all rounder track/street/drift, and i want it all to be engineered and legal in victoria.

 

I'll list my plans for the car and with each part the questions I have about it:

 

Auto to manual

I am going to be converting the car to manual, hopefully using a k50 from a ke70. I have read that you need to weld the old crossmember from the ke55 to the crossmember from the ke70

1. I was wondering if anybody has a picture of this as i am having trouble visualising it. Also from a legal side of things is this engineer-able or will i need to get a custom crossmember made up?

 

Rear suspension:

I am going to get get the leafs reset and an extra leaf added. For the rear i will get short stroke shocks, not sure which yet. Also going to replaces all bushes

2. How low do people recommend going, performance wise first and looks secondary. I was thinking 1.5-2 inches lower?

 

Front suspension:

For the front i am going the standard corona xt130/peugot/hilux setup, i'm thinking about converting to coilovers with the t3 set, and also getting camber tops and possibly negative camber roll centre adjusters. Also thinking kyb agx short stroke shocks. Once gain will replace the bushes.

3. Do you think i'll need the negative camber roll centre adjusters?

4. Can anyone recommend a place in the South East suburbs to cut the struts and weld the coilovers, and also reset the leaves?

 

Tyres and Rims:

For Rims I am thinking 15x8 or 15x7 and am not sure what offset. The wheel arches need some rust work so rolling/flaring them is fine.

5.Keeping in mind that i want this to be legal so i can't increase the track by too much, what size rims and offset do people recommend?

6.Tyres are something i haven't got my head around yet, so if someone could also suggest tyre sizes and types and if possible list reasoning behind?

 

I think that's enough to start with. Any responses would be great thanks

[Clapped out]

Its good to see you have researched and have an idea on where you wan't to go with your car, it all points into the direction of a good little street car. It's very hard to roll all of your purposes into one car. Having an all-rounder including track and drift?, most of what you have suggested won't be relevant. A K series engine for track/drift is the first major fail, also lack of knowledge being a beginner is a major disadvantage. It's certainly a major task your taking on first your first time, although that's what the rolla club community is here for. And in saying that, an individual can certainly learn/acquire skills to save money, not doubting that. Maybe later on down the track when you get a good paying job, look at going down the road of a purpose built track/ drift car at a later stage. Cars can be major money pits! I have both built cars myself, and paid for work to be done, major $$ difference.

Edited November 15, 2013 by Clapped out

[Bushpig]

Its good to see you have researched and have an idea on where you wan't to go with your car, it all points into the direction of a good little street car. It's very hard to roll all of your purposes into one car. Having an all-rounder including track and drift?, most of what you have suggested won't be relevant. A K series engine for track/drift is the first major fail, also lack of knowledge being a beginner is a major disadvantage. It's certainly a major task your taking on first your first time, although that's what the rolla club community is here for. And in saying that, an individual can certainly learn/acquire skills to save money, not doubting that. Maybe later on down the track when you get a good paying job, look at going down the road of a purpose built track/ drift car at a later stage. Cars can be major money pits! I have both built cars myself, and paid for work to be done, major $$ difference.

 

Thanks for the reply. Yeah I was thinking it was going to be a bit hard to build it as an all rounder. In reality it will be a street car with occasional track use.

Yeah there are plans for an engine transplant but that won't be for a while as I'm on my p's so is illegal.

 

 

[Langa]

Don't know of this helps but in my manual ke55 I just put in a 5 speed k50 from a ke70. From my understanding you can teach down either a ke55 k50 crossmember and drill new holes or use the ke70 k50 crossmember and drill new holes in that to match your car. But unsure if it will work since your car is a auto.

[Mechanical Sympathy]

15x6 in a +24 is just about the perfect fitment for a 55. I have these on my sedan.

 

That gives a 4" backspace. Though a 205 tyre on that offset is just getting a little too close to the strut for my liking. 195 tyres would probably fix it.

 

But you're wanting to fit 7" or 8" rims. With a 7" you'd need a +12 offset to keep a 4" backspace. I reckon that's about the max you can get under the front guards without over stretched tyres and a baseball bat. A 15x7 +12 would fit under the rear easy.

 

An 8" rim would require a neutral offset to keep a 4" backspace. I reckon that'd put the edge of your front rim an inch outside the front guard. And the rear rim about flush with the outside guard.

 

My estimate anyway. Someone else may have achieved more dish than that.

[Bushpig]

Thanks for the replies, very informative

[jay_howie]

First of all if you want this to be legal, 14" rim is as big as you can go, as far as width, I am not sure, but definately cannot poke out of the gaurds, 15x8 is overkill for any car that isn't pushing 200kw stick with a 6" rim, and you will be happier. going full lock in a carpark with no power steering and 8" wheels is going to suck big time.

 

As far as the crossmember goes, you can make your own, or, which is much easier, weld a manual ke55 one to an auto ke55 one. basically side to side, so they are parallel.

 

here is a custom one, thats what it looks like basically, all you want is the auto crossmember for the chasis mounting (4 bolts) and the manual crossmember for the gearbox mount (2 bolts) so if you use your imagination, and its strong enough, it will work

http://www.rollaclub...ttach_id=106413

 

Do you know what else is needed?

 

ke55 manual pedal box

ke55 clutch cable

ke70 k50 (preffered) bellhousing to shifter

ke55 manual crossmember (if welding together)

ke55 manual tailshaft

ke70 4k flywheel

ke55/70 4k spigot bearing

ke70 clutch kit with thrust bearing/release bearing

 

use your old speedo cable

 

For consideration,

change diff ration to 4.1 instead of 4.3

 

Hope this helps,

 

Jay

Edited November 20, 2013 by jay_howie

[Bushpig]

First of all if you want this to be legal, 14" rim is as big as you can go, as far as width, I am not sure, but definately cannot poke out of the gaurds, 15x8 is overkill for any car that isn't pushing 200kw stick with a 6" rim, and you will be happier. going full lock in a carpark with no power steering and 8" wheels is going to suck big time.

 

As far as the crossmember goes, you can make your own, or, which is much easier, weld a manual ke55 one to an auto ke55 one. basically side to side, so they are parallel.

 

here is a custom one, thats what it looks like basically, all you want is the auto crossmember for the chasis mounting (4 bolts) and the manual crossmember for the gearbox mount (2 bolts) so if you use your imagination, and its strong enough, it will work

http://www.rollaclub...ttach_id=106413

 

Do you know what else is needed?

 

ke55 manual pedal box

ke55 clutch cable

ke70 k50 (preffered) bellhousing to shifter

ke55 manual crossmember (if welding together)

ke55 manual tailshaft

ke70 4k flywheel

ke55/70 4k spigot bearing

ke70 clutch kit with thrust bearing/release bearing

 

use your old speedo cable

 

For consideration,

change diff ration to 4.1 instead of 4.3

 

Hope this helps,

 

Jay

 

Thanks for that, just out of curiosity why do you suggest changing the diff ratio?

 

 

Another question if anyone can answer it: What is the process for getting a car engineered? do i need to go speak to the engineer before i do anything, or can i just take photos and document the whole thing then go to an engineer? The things I imagine will need to be engineered will be the new front brake/strut/coilover setup, half cage, seats, engine modifications and exhaust? Can anyone who has had similar things on their cars engineered give me approximate costs? Thanks

[mark1414]

Thanks for that, just out of curiosity why do you suggest changing the diff ratio?

 

 

Another question if anyone can answer it: What is the process for getting a car engineered? do i need to go speak to the engineer before i do anything, or can i just take photos and document the whole thing then go to an engineer? The things I imagine will need to be engineered will be the new front brake/strut/coilover setup, half cage, seats, engine modifications and exhaust? Can anyone who has had similar things on their cars engineered give me approximate costs? Thanks

 

Up until recently that would all depend on what state you are in as some were much tougher than others. Now that the NCOP is in (?) I am not sure. However, if your spending a large amount of money it would probably be smart to go speak to someone to discuss the legalities of it before starting.

[jay_howie]

The diff ratio is just to match up to the new gearbox ratios, how Toyota designed it. To understand how it would affect your car, it would lower your rpm in every gear, by a small amount. This is much more benifical if your doing highway km's. For city driving I would leave it as 4.3

Edited November 23, 2013 by jay_howie

[B.L.Z.BUB]

You can put 15" on legally. 2" larger than the largest factory fitted wheel. As for engineering it depends on the engineer. I took mine to my engineer and explained what I had done and he was happy. Some want more proof. The best bet is to go and talk to a few and ask what they require. For my seats I had to supply an ADR approved certificate as the adr tags had faded on my seats. They are all different depending on the engineer and state.

 

You will want roll center adjusters, they make a massive difference for handling.

 

The xt130 strut upgrage is great, cheap and you can bolt on large brakes. The only issue is the brake rotor fouling on the lca, its worse with RCAs. So you have to use xt130 steering arms, they give you less lock, slower but super light steering.

 

You can use ae86 steering arms but you can't use rcas and would have to flatten the end of the lca for clearance.

 

I personally wouldnt use t3 coilovers, you can buy the same kit on ebay for about $120. They aren't the best design, alloy sleeve which can't be welded to the strut. Grub screws to lock the adjusting rings etc. They work, but arent the best design.

Edited November 23, 2013 by B.L.Z.BUB

[Bushpig]

You can put 15" on legally. 2" larger than the largest factory fitted wheel. As for engineering it depends on the engineer. I took mine to my engineer and explained what I had done and he was happy. Some want more proof. The best bet is to go and talk to a few and ask what they require. For my seats I had to supply an ADR approved certificate as the adr tags had faded on my seats. They are all different depending on the engineer and state.

 

You will want roll center adjusters, they make a massive difference for handling.

 

The xt130 strut upgrage is great, cheap and you can bolt on large brakes. The only issue is the brake rotor fouling on the lca, its worse with RCAs. So you have to use xt130 steering arms, they give you less lock, slower but super light steering.

 

You can use ae86 steering arms but you can't use rcas and would have to flatten the end of the lca for clearance.

 

I personally wouldnt use t3 coilovers, you can buy the same kit on ebay for about $120. They aren't the best design, alloy sleeve which can't be welded to the strut. Grub screws to lock the adjusting rings etc. They work, but arent the best design.

 

I was looking at rcas, do i need negative camber rcas or just rcas? and is it true the ae86 ones are the same as ke55?

 

Yeah i've got the xt130 steering arms

 

What coilover kit would you recommend? I have read good things about the hsd ones?

 

Thanks

[B.L.Z.BUB]

NCRCAs screw with your scrub radius and will flog out your balljoints. I'd avoid them.

 

86 and 55 share zero similar parts. The bolt spacing between them is totally different.

 

I have a HSD kit in my KE70, great for the price. I used them with shortened XT130 struts, T3 camber tops, needle bearing spring hats and RCA's and its a great set up. EDIT: Apart from the steering arm issue.

Edited November 24, 2013 by B.L.Z.BUB

[Bushpig]

NCRCAs screw with your scrub radius and will flog out your balljoints. I'd avoid them.

 

86 and 55 share zero similar parts. The bolt spacing between them is totally different.

 

I have a HSD kit in my KE70, great for the price. I used them with shortened XT130 struts, T3 camber tops, needle bearing spring hats and RCA's and its a great set up. EDIT: Apart from the steering arm issue.

 

Okay thanks.

 

How much did you shorten your struts?

 

are the needle bearing spring hats the t3 ones?

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Yeah the T3 ones. I took 40 mm out of the middle, then welded the the sleeve over it to strengthen them.