oldie Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Well,3rd time around,some may have seen I advertised a KE70 for a bloke in another area,well,I ended up buying it from him myself,$200. Think I paid too much really as it has 210,000k's,auto,a/c,interior is clean,boot,petrol flap and wheel arches are all rusted as per usual for a KE70 BUT it had 3 doors missing,boot lid missing,bonnet missing,damaged guard drivers side and no grill. Well,Ive got into it over the last 2 days and cleaned it up pretty well,a/c switch is missing but everything else seems ok at present. Raided the car at pick a part kilsyth and got all the panels I needed so that added $300 to the purchase price,they are all fitted up now but still missing a drivers window and winder mechanisms for drivers door and rear door drivers side (can anyone help). Spent today checking out the a/c and fixing rust,put power to the a/c and it still works and was even cold,then attacked the rear wheel arch drivers side,flared it out mildly and it collapsed from rust,as I expected it too,cut out the rubbish and replaced with new steel and welded it all up,looks good now,inside guard and outer,only a mild flare but easy to extend it now if I want to by just welding a single thickness steel lip to the new edge. Cleaned up around the fuel flap,its a mess,not sure yet how to attack it,have a couple of ideas and have to do the flare on the passenger side,then the boot edges and I want to remove the key lock and fit a solenoid to the boot lock,then I'm done.Haven't decided about paint yet,want to try and get it clean and on rego,then things will be easier to do for me! Pics are a hassle but will try to get some up when I remember.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldie Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Ok,so more work on the rust today,maybe they should be called rustarolla's,both rear wheel arches repaired,still the petrol tank lid (been putting that off as long as I can) and a couple of other spots I found when attacking it with a flapper disc. Now the plan is to fit front guard lips over them like I did on my last one but with that one I never got around to fixing the inner wheel arches,well,there all done first on this one,if anyone has a front passenger guard to sell,doesnt matter if its crappy,I only want the lip,please let me know.Have run out of steel and cutting discs so have to go and stock up ready for the next attack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 :POSTPICS!: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldie Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) pics Edited January 27, 2014 by oldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Ah bro thats not that bad. Definitely seen far worse rust on some! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldie Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Yea,your right there,decided what I'm going to do about the fuel tank area,I have an old guard so just going to cut a complete section out of it that will fit all the way around the fuel door,this way I should be able to match the body line curve and the line that runs horizontally through that area,will just have to weld very slowly to avoid as much distortion as possible,then grind and bog. No work today,I'm out of time,materials and its a total fire ban day where I live so no sparks,welding etc for me today. Once I fit the guard lips,cover the boot key hole and repair a few small spots Ive found,welding will be over ( I hope ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Nah- unless there is a lot of rust inside the fuel flap just bog it! Â Its so easy to get a welding distortion in the side like that, then you'll use more bog on that than you would just filling the non-structural rust hole! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldie Posted January 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) Well,I'll have to think about that,I'm a bit OCD about rust and just bogging it up,I don't think rust converters are really permanent enough to stop the re-occurence and surely bog would crack because of the continual open/close of the door.I do know what you mean about distortion,on one of my projects I tried to remove the filler flap entirely and weld some panel over the hole,totally distorted the whole quarter panel,ended up welding a whole new quarter in to get it straight again.Will be welding on the quarters anyway as I'm fitting lips to the rear guards but there is a bit more rigidity there and I have done it before without issue. Edited January 28, 2014 by oldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) I bogged my fuel flap area and it was worse than that. I cleaned it up front and rear, rust killed it. Then I taped up the outside as a mold. Then used fibreglass bog on the inside as a backer, peeled the tape off and plastic bogged the outside. Came up sweet. Ill see if I can find pics. Â Â Â Â Â can't find pics of the inside where I fibreglass bogged it unfortunately. It was super strong afterwards though. Ive repaired heaps of big holes with it. As long as it doesnt stick proud of the finished surface its really good. You just don't want to have to shape it. Edited January 28, 2014 by B.L.Z.BUB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldie Posted January 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 would the fibreglass re-inforced bog from a auto shop be the sort of thing you mean as you can also buy a thing called metalmend which is a bog with metal strands/shavings mixed in which I believe is also quite solid and good for larger holes etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Yeah the metal stuff is even better, its almost impossible to shape after its dry though. But you can grind it down to shape it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldie Posted January 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Ok,thanks,will consider giving it a try as I don't want to get into distorted panels again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldie Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Just a little bit done,ran out of welding gas so will let pic do the talking.As you will probably notice,I couldn't just leave the rust around the flap,OCD me won out,have a plan for what to do,will show pics when have gas and its done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldie Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 (edited) The rust around the flap turned out to worse than I thought and the pics showed,as I cleaned it up more just kept showing and yes,a bit of it is going inside behind the flap so I have to deal with it thoroughly,also removed as much of the rubber sealent that is behind the panel joins as I could, had to pop a dent in the area above the cap so just put a lever in behind the panel to hold it out in approximate position then hit it with the heat gun for a while,Let it cool a bit and remove the prop and its pretty good,not perfect but much better and will only need a small swipe of bog to flatten it out. Edited January 29, 2014 by oldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldie Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 (edited) Little more work done,made and replaced the rusted out boot corners over the last 2 days and a section of the boot lip,put a bit of bog over them to tidy it up but still have to sand it out. Noticed a rather prominent rust bubble on the side of the roof above the drivers door and when I started poking at it,it just turned into a couple of holes so ended up cutting out a section just above the gutter about 150mm long,made up a repair section and welded it in,now I just have to smooth it over with a skin of bog. Still have the passenger side guard flare to cut and fit and I am re-designing the petrol filler,after that I hope it will be body and paint,not doing anything else to this car till its on the road,then there may be a bit of stealth activity going on.. PS-I hate welding and I hate bog!!!! Edited February 1, 2014 by oldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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