Ok so next question is would you happen to know what wire I need to splice into for the ecu? The negative at the dizzy for ecu signal?

Without looking at the wiring diagram, 5v signal and ground on the ecu. Connected to the 2 wires from the dizzy. Use a multimeter connected to the dizzy and spin it to see which is which, you'll only get a beep connected one way.

Ok so I finally got round to wiring the corolla. Just going over the wiring diagram.

Now for the dizzy you said I need a 5v for positive and a ground from the ecu. My problem is I also need a 5v for the tps can I use the same 5v wire to do both and which wires then go to the ignition module?

As I said... "without looking at the wiring diagram".... Now I've seen it I can tell you it would be crank input 1 and the ground in the same plug wired to the dizzy. Use a multimeter to find out which is which on the dizzy. You'll only get a beep with the positive of the multimeter on the wire that connects to the crank input. Remember to close the air gap up to about 20 thou first though otherwise you might struggle to get a reliable pulse to the ecu.

I measured the gap before and it was already at 20thou.

Ok so crank input and ground on the 4 plug. So does that mean positive is 12v positive from battery or the 5v positive from the main plug.

 

Ive never wired ecu before so sorry for shitty questions

There's no power to the dizzy, was recalling what my wolf wiring was and thinking microtech might have been the same. Come to think of it mine its just trigger and ground too, didn't need to use the 5v power in the ignition input loom. If I ever get around to wiring up my custom k cas then I will need to use it.

Ahh so I wired it up yesterday to suit the above. I had the ingition input to the positive side on the dizzy and ground to the negative.

But what wire is to go from the ecu to the module so it knows when to shoot

 

Is that the ignition output?? Thats what I have used and still got nothing in the form of cranking on the ecu

Yeah ignition output 1. Not surprised you don't have a signal.... As you currently don't know the configuration of the trigger.

 

You could try spinning it faster in a drill as I mentioned earlier.

 

Fyi I also have a capacitor across my ignition input wires. Can tell you how many micro farad when I'm back with my car in another week or so.

I pulled the dizzy out and spun it with a corded drill pretty fast. I should be getting my cable this week so we can actually see whats going on in the ecu.

 

Yea that would be great. How big capacitor do you have??

I had a look through your build quickly you had a resistor on your wire from the coil.

Yeah resistor not capacitor sorry. The little yellow thing you can see in some pics.

 

So still no pulse with the drill then?

Nahh no pulse yet. Is there a certain way the Wires should go on the module?

Should only need 3 wires - trigger... in your case ignition output 1, coil negative, and ground.

When the ecu grounds the trigger wire the module/igniter should open the coil negative terminal to the ground. Knowing that much you should be able to test it with a multimeter.

An igniter is effectively just a fast switching, high current, earthing relay. If you connected the negative side of the coil directly to the ignition output the coil would discharge through the ecu and fry it.

Hey mate that resistor is 250v and 0.22uF but something close to that should do.

Edited May 16, 201412 yr by Taz_Rx

Ahh thanks.