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Running In Methods

Featured Replies

I thought it might be an interesting topic to see what peoples variations on running in engines are.

 

The method I'm using at the moment is as follows:

 

Penrite Running in oil (because I KNOW its a full mineral oil, suitable for turbos. Other oils tend not to advertise the fact because "synthetic is better" or some crap)

Oil filter change at 100km

Oil and Filter change at 500km (mineral oil again)

Oil and filter change at 1000km (I'm going to use Penrite Semi-syn 10W50 I think)

 

I drive it firm, not flogging it and keeping the RPM down (below 5000rpm and not long periods at high RPM). I try to avoid long periods of idling and cruising at a constant RPM and load. I try to load up the engine (i.e. pulls in 4th gear).

 

Interested to see other peoples variations on running in methods.

never run my own engine in but...this seems to make a fair amount of sense:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

seems to make sense, run it hard with plenty of rpm so that the rings wear to the surface exactly before they harden up

This will sound stupid to most people but some places will tell you to run them in as how they are meant to be driven, i wouldnt trust it but hey everyone has a different oppinion, my mate had a 202 bored 80 thou with alot of other mods and it was in his burnout car the mechanic said to run it in fire it up and drive it into the water and go for your life, i really don't recommend doing this with a car you have spent alot of $$$ on and is a regular driver.

 

My 2c

last rolla motor i built got line locked out the garage door :) i don't recomend it but hell that motor was fast, just not for long

run it in depending on how you want it to last and go i think

oils? no sinthetic for 1000k the soap and stuff will glaze the bore and do horid shit to bearings and stuff after that... whatever floats you boat i think

i think the biggest think is DON't nurse it, don't flogg it.

 

the idea is to get load against the engine, or better explained would be load against the rings.

it's not ring tension that holds the rings on to the cylinder wall it's combustion pressure against the back of the ring, and the more pressure the quicker the engine will bed in.

 

that's just a basic explaination.

 

the link love ke70 posted is right on the money, i've tried both ways and the best result is his way.

 

my 5c + gst

My rule of thum is run it in likes it's going to be used. Having said that, I don't immediately cane the proverbials out of a race motor, but I don't baby them either. When I first drove my show ute, it had 131kms on the clock, and then I proceded to find the rev limiter in reverse... :)

My rule of thum is run it in likes it's going to be used. Having said that, I don't immediately cane the proverbials out of a race motor, but I don't baby them either. When I first drove my show ute, it had 131kms on the clock, and then I proceded to find the rev limiter in reverse...

 

lol, Can you tell me by any chance where you got the info from to just drive it like you are going to.

Yes, a technique handed down from father to son. Been fine on new road cars that I've had, never had any issues. (one of them is now 10 years old, 280K on the clock, and mechanically as good as the day we got it.) My first Dwarf motor rebuild was installed in the car, driven cross town to Calder, and had 25 reasonable laps put onto it before we got serious. My only hard and fast rule is to avoid constant revs. Current motor was run in at Willowbank autocross, with a self imposed 6.5K rev limit.

 

The ute was a different story, but that car only has one purpose in life, and I was being paid to drive it as such.

 

Meh, it works for me. :)

Edited by Redwarf

This will sound stupid to most people but some places will tell you to run them in as how they are meant to be driven, i wouldnt trust it but hey everyone has a different oppinion, my mate had a 202 bored 80 thou with alot of other mods and it was in his burnout car the mechanic said to run it in fire it up and drive it into the water and go for your life, i really don't recommend doing this with a car you have spent alot of $$$ on and is a regular driver.

 

My 2c

 

You had what i had and i just wanted to know who told you that technique

Edited by Trev

  • Author

I knew SOMEONE would post motomans method. I'm more interested in peoples variations. Mines based on his, but I don't follow his like its religon.

 

Ive heard of other people idling the motor first for 30 minutes. Changing the oil filter then doing a drive with lots of varying terrain. I think they used Sydney - Bathurst.

Drive it like I stole it.

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