peterd Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 I'm very new at this mechanics stuff. Ive been playing around with my 4k and I've successfully serviced the auto transmission and changed the head gasket so far. I'm working my way through the tuning now. I've got the gregory's manual and the yellow toyota 4k manual. (which you can download here http://www.retrojdm.com/ScanView.asp?ScanID=29 ) The toyota yellow book is very clear, the gregory's not so good. I've found that they assume you know the basic stuff. Can anyone recommend a good generic workshop manual to teach me the basic stuff? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verdey0 Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Youtube and forums :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) To start with tuning cannot be done with poor or inferior parts. It is impossible and will only lead you to complete and utter failure. FAILURE!!! Follow the destructions before you and your path will become clear. Key phuck up areas are distributor out of sync and vacuum leaks. Distributor/ignition: Make sure all distributor leads are in awesome condition. As well as the rotor bottom and distributor cap. Spark plugs gapped to 0.8mm. All must be awesome. Coil must be good as well as your ballast resistor if you've got one. Set your awesome condition breaker points gap to 0.45mm with the rubbing block on the high point of the distributor shaft as pictured. Carburettor/ fuel system: Again, all in top condition. Fuel filter, pump and carburettor. New fuel lines are awesome, as are carb rebuild kits. Home brand filters and regular unleaded are not awesome. Don't use either. In the below image you will see 2 screws. The screw on the base of the 'item' pictured is the idle mixture screw. It's base setting is 2 turns out from seated. Screw it in till is seats softly then back 2 turns out. Unless you've phucked around with the idle jet inside the carburettor this setting will not change. The screw at the linkage is obviously the idle speed screw. This base setting is 1 & 1/2 turns in from contact with the throttle linkage. Warm Up: Get the car running making sure your distributor in correctly. It's easy to be a tooth out or even 180 degrees out if you are not awesome. Much Iinformation for this available. http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor#Ignition Get it warm. This is necessary. Turn it off. Valve clearances: Too hard to explain here. Much info elsewhere. Make sure to get it right. http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve_Clearances Timing/Idle Speed: Engine running again. Turn the idle speed screw down if needed until the engine is under 1000rpm. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose of the distributor and block it. With a timing light rotate the distributor till you've got it right at 8 degrees on the timing cover. You may need to white paint pen on the notch of the harmonic balancer so you can see that shit. Reconnect that vacuum advance hose. Check your idle speed and adjust with the corresponding screw. You should have tachometer or your not awesome. Most modern multimeters have tach settings so this may be an option. Being an automatic transmission your idle speed should be like 850-900 rpm. Recheck the timing and idle speed. That will be 150$. Photos are upside down and will be rotated once money clears. Edited October 27, 2014 by GJM85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterd Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) thank you. what an awesome write up. much appreciated. the cheque is in the e(mail). Edited October 27, 2014 by peterd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 teach me the basic stuff? 1)-The pointy end of the screwdriver is the lever, the fat end is where the hammer works. 2)-If you're under the car and your boot can't loosen the nut when you kick the spanner, the hammer will do it. 3)-The hammer is always the answer... Volunteer to help a mechanic in your spare time. You'll be a pain in the ass for the guy, but just ask loudly at the pub is anyone is a mechanic and ply him with beers until he agrees... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterd Posted October 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 excellent advice too! I learned about the (extended) spanner/hammer combo yesterday when I was trying to get the sump plug out. I think King Kong was working on it last. and yes, my dad taught me about the hammer. "if a hammer can't fix the problem, you need a bigger one" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 note: Make sure ignition is turned off when adjusting points. Once you get zapped by the coil, you'll never forget again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterd Posted October 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Did that yesterday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterd Posted October 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 The car is running sweet. Thanks heaps for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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