March 28, 201511 yr comment_695537 Looks great but that top cover paint sucks a bit. Just redo and it will look cool once its not missing bits. I love your little rig. :clover: Report
March 28, 201511 yr Author comment_695539 cheers man haha don't worry i have paint stripper at the ready. Edited March 28, 201511 yr by KP_JAMES Report
May 24, 201511 yr Author comment_697337 Finally am able to update! Done a few things here and there but am still eagerly awaiting the completion of my gearbox adapter then she's all go. Got rid of the rising sun for you LittleRedSpirit lol, goal is to get the engine and bay as clean & clutter free as possible. With the hydro tensioners being prone to failure I decided to drill a hole, let all the fluid out, tap the hole and loctite a bolt with a lock nut on. Thanks to a misunderstanding on the machinists behalf I now have a pair of hub rings, this is used to secure the brake rotor rather than using nuts and bolts which would've been suffice but can't complain. don't have a before pic but just imagine these used to be on a boganed up, RfnB, matty b'd kp and some hua decided it'll be a great idea to cut the wires off leaving 1mm to spare and painted the lens' solid black.. Thanks for reading :) Edited May 24, 201511 yr by KP_JAMES Report
March 1, 201610 yr comment_703372 thread bump - have you fitted the drivetrain into the car yet? i would be very interested to hear what mods are required to get the j160 to fit (IE does the trans tunnel/firewall need to be cut or anything like that) Report
June 10, 201610 yr Author comment_704932 Dam its been way too long! I havent managed to get too far due to parts and doing home rennovations etc. heres the goods from SQ that i have been waiting for ever since there was talk of it first in NZ to have this beauty :cool: I had a jam at fitting up the gearbox, the plate works perfectly but the tunnel is way too small, so once all the reno stuff is done i can get into cutting open the tunnel and making up a x-member then onto the good stuff :) Edited June 10, 201610 yr by KP_JAMES Report
June 11, 201610 yr Author comment_704951 I broke a sledge hammer trying that lol. Too much to move, I'm waiting for Sam's relocation kit which will help a lot Another issue is I have to drop the subframe a bit in order to get the bell housing to fit between it and the firewall as I don't want to cut it but no biggie Report
August 31, 20179 yr Author comment_711082 Try this again... Long story short life and dads junk got in the way lol, been mishing for the past year to get the house and garage sorted which is now done (shelving works a treat...in the storage form..) soo no excuses now!! gah.. me box is too big, had to get my trim on..whos awesome idea was it to put this lump in instead of a humble t50... -_- Never-the-less shes in, bit of an angle or else i wont have room for the hoop but meh i just want to get it done and driving. Will weld some gussets/bracing to the box mounts and make it all flashy tomorrow! Report
August 31, 20179 yr comment_711092 How much clearance are you going to allow around the tunnel? They move around quite a bit over bumps and acceleration. The airbox on my KE70 moves about 15mm upwards as the motor rotates when I let the clutch out. We've got the same box and adapter on the back of a 4AGE, but haven't fitted it yet. Report
September 1, 20179 yr Author comment_711095 The engine mounts I have are quite solid but will give it plenty of clearance once i make the top half of the tunnel. I have a few pieces yet to bang/cut out, just finishing off the x member now then work that out after, can space up the gbox mount if need be later. Edited September 1, 20179 yr by KP_JAMES Report
September 3, 20179 yr Author comment_711162 After taking the engine/box in and out a good 20 times i think ive got the position sussed..not the happiest but I'm almost ready to throw a match at it so it can stay there. My issue was that basically the engine needs to sit lower as the driveshaft interferes with the hand brake whilst the engine is level, but i can't do that or else the sump almost hits the rack + i cbf'd making new mounts. so i tilted the engine back more but i found the dizzy was hitting the firewall, i also found the shifter hit the center brace when engaging 1st/3rd/5th. Cut both out sorted. next was the x-member i noticed was going to work, then the trumpet was fouling the booster fff$$#!@#!! in too deep now, added a spacer to one of the mounts so trumpet isnt fouling, cut hole in firewall, completely chopped of center of brace now i can use my factory x-member along with the ones i made...shouldve got that ae85.. next step is to make a few spacers for the x-member then on to making up the new top half of the tunnel..with my greeat fab skills this is going to be funn Report
September 3, 20179 yr comment_711168 A Bill Sherwood dry sump system might help. Another project on my list to try, it uses the stock oil pump to pump oil around the engine and a single scavenge pump to get the oil up into a remote tank. Then the sump is just a plate below the crank. Give more bhp and eliminates any oil surge problems when cornering. Report
September 4, 20179 yr Author comment_711181 Not a bad idea cheers, ive baffelled my sump so she can stay for now till its running then go from there, thats my main aim Report
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