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Shrike

Ae71 Ignition Issue

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Seems the car starts and stays on if I hold the key forward a little from the on point but then I let it go and it aligns on the on position it kills the engine.

 

Does this with no ignition installed or with the starter switch unbolted

 

Got a new starter switch from pickapart and same issue

 

Any thoughts ?

 

Have tried realigning the starter switch to the ignition barrel and no change

 

Tried taking the ignition barrel out and starting with a screw driver but the switch doesnt start far enough forward :S

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Thought it might be the ballest resistor but doesnt seem to be ( I bypassed it with the same issue)

 

Probably needs replaced anyway so will get a new one might also buy a new switch as the one from pickapart might be faulty

 

Sigh I hate electrical issues

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One of those two-

 

The ballast gets used on "run" and bypassed on "start", so a dud ballast will do what is happening.

 

The ignition block has a contact for each position, so if the contact burns out in the "run" side of the ignition key it will do the same.

 

Its more likely the ballast, but so long as you bypassed the ballast correctly it must be the ignition block behind the key.

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check for 12v on wire going to ballast with ignition in run pos. If nothing, trace it to ignition Block and check there as well

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Replaced the ballest resistor last weekend no change

 

Brought a brand new ignition switch which ill put in on sat

 

If that doesnt work then ill have to play with the ignition barrel and metal shaft that goes through the steering column

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Look in a wiring diargram!

 

This one will do- White supplies the power for everything from the fusible link, and it goes out via the accessories blue/red, the ignition black/yellow, and the start black/white to starter solenoid.

 

So the white gets switched to blue/red and black/yellow, and it gets buttoned to the black/white.

post-7544-0-33906300-1455794307_thumb.jpg

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Currently working with the guy I brought an ignition switch off to get the correct part

 

He resent me what he had listed and was the same as the first one I brought

 

Any idea how I find the build date?

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Just take ur switch apart and fix it. its very simple, gently pry open the white plastic cover with the white cover held above the black bit. get ready for the 2 side springs and ball bearings to fly out at you.

I've had to do this 5 times now, and have lost these ball bearings. if you loose these parts, its not the end of the world, the key will just loose a little bit of its click on the way around from off to start.

 

Now, there are only 3 springs to fly out at ur face under the little copper plates, so have a soft blanket rolled up underneath your working area to catch loose parts.

Sand down the contacts a bit and the 2 copper turning plates. There is an inner one and an outer one, just clean up both.

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Just take ur switch apart and fix it. its very simple, gently pry open the white plastic cover with the white cover held above the black bit. get ready for the 2 side springs and ball bearings to fly out at you.

I've had to do this 5 times now, and have lost these ball bearings. if you loose these parts, its not the end of the world, the key will just loose a little bit of its click on the way around from off to start.

 

Now, there are only 3 springs to fly out at ur face under the little copper plates, so have a soft blanket rolled up underneath your working area to catch loose parts.

Sand down the contacts a bit and the 2 copper turning plates. There is an inner one and an outer one, just clean up both.

 

Gave it a go today and discovered the battery has gone flat, will pick up a new one this weekend as the one in there atm is god knows how old

Edited by Shrike

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