Tarago diff?

[SloRolla]

Hey guys, when I bought my ke30 about 6 months ago, it had a welded diff in it and I soon got sick of it. Bought another Banjo diff, dead and was so loud it gave me a headache in 10 minutes. After putting the weldy back in and driving around I'm sick of it. I suddenly realized that we have a wrecked YR22 Tarago. I've done a bit of reading up and seen that some people put YR21 diffs in, are YR22s different? Of course I'd need to shorten and put on leaf mounts and new shaft. Is it worth it? Would it be to heavy or the ratio be way out?

Cheers!   

[B-Lugg]

How much power are you making and what do you use the car for?

[SloRolla]

4 minutes ago, B-Lugg said:

How much power are you making and what do you use the car for?

Stock ke30 daily lmao. It would probably be a hastle. Could just wait for another Banjo to come up.

[parrot]

Just chase a stocky

[SloRolla]

1 hour ago, parrot said:

Just chase a stocky

Alright cheers!

[ke70dave]

My memory is a bit vague...But i belive the beauty of the YR22 diff is that it has teh same diff centre as the altezza diff (F series), which means you can use ratios and LSDs from that. YR21 seems to be an E series diff. Dunno what else is E series. 

We put a yr22 diff in an ae86 yrs ago behind a CA81det, custom everything. Big ass heavy diff for a corolla though, if you don't need it, don't put it in. 

[SloRolla]

1 hour ago, ke70dave said:

My memory is a bit vague...But i belive the beauty of the YR22 diff is that it has the same diff centre as the altezza diff (F series), which means you can use ratios and LSDs from that. YR21 seems to be an E series diff. Dunno what else is E series. 

We put a yr22 diff in an ae86 yrs ago behind a CA81det, custom everything. Big ass heavy diff for a corolla though, if you don't need it, don't put it in. 

Thanks for the info Dave! I'll continue my search for a stock diff.

[ke70dave]

A t-series ae86 diff is a better option if you want the ability to put an LSD in. But same costs apply for install, welding on all the required mounts and a custom tailshaft. plus of course the cost of the LSD itself which can be 1000bucks on its own, alot more if you go brand new. 

Differentials are expensive!

[SloRolla]

59 minutes ago, ke70dave said:

A t-series ae86 diff is a better option if you want the ability to put an LSD in. But same costs apply for install, welding on all the required mounts and a custom tailshaft. plus of course the cost of the LSD itself which can be 1000bucks on its own, alot more if you go brand new. 

Differentials are expensive!

Atm just wanting something that works atm. A guy was selling an r31 diff shortened and everything for 1k, I was tempted but I had other things first :( I may even just get a Borg and swap the entire axle and shaft over

[ke70dave]

ah yes the R31 diff is also another viable option. the oem r31 lsd is a bit rubbish (cone type thing, that are all stuffed by now), but KAAZ make an aftermarket that fits.

But yes, sounds like an oem one is the way to go for what you are doing. 

[B-Lugg]

On 4/25/2017 at 6:45 PM, SloRolla said:

Stock ke30 daily lmao. It would probably be a hastle. Could just wait for another Banjo to come up.

I would be putting in another stock diff and spend my money elsewhere (Coilovers etc)

[Jon]

If your welded dif isn't noisy make 1 diff out of the 2 centres you have.

Swap the crown wheel from the welded centre onto the non welded centre and put it in the welded banjo and your good to go.

I'd personally give it some new bearings and input shaft seal while you've got it apart.

at least you know what you've got then

 

 

[SloRolla]

2 hours ago, Jon said:

If your welded dif isn't noisy make 1 diff out of the 2 centres you have.

Swap the crown wheel from the welded centre onto the non welded centre and put it in the welded banjo and your good to go.

I'd personally give it some new bearings and input shaft seal while you've got it apart.

at least you know what you've got then

 

 

Jon, I think you're on the money. I went to a transmission and diff rebuilder, and they said $900 for a full rebuild. Also asked if you could just swap parts of the center and he said no. However, I can't see why I wouldn't be able to, it's only a couple of bolts and stuff.

Cheers!

[Jon]

Your diff guy is right, and wrong

crownwheel and pinion engagement is easy to get wrong but because your not removing the pinion the hard bit doesn't need to be reset.

check the backlash on you not noisy it welded dif

swap the crown wheel from the welded diff onto the not welded carrier, use a tension wrench and locktite on the mounting bolts

Put your dif back together adjusting the carrier left/right to set the backlash the same as it was before you pulled it apart and your good to go.

[ke70dave]

Yup, listen to your diff man

Turns out there is alot more to differentials than meets the eye. the crown wheel and pinion must be kept as a pair for starters, and although backlash is important, what you are really checking is tooth engagement, contact patch and it is your "backlast" that sets your pinion depth that controls the tooth contact patch, using "bearing blue" to see the tooth engagement. the problem is, measuring this stuff is annoying and takes time as every time you need to make a change the diff comes appart....

I gave all this a go years ago.....once....and made a huge mess of it. Diff basically self destructed within a few thousand kms. I would have another go as i learnt alot. and there is no reason why you cant give it a go, have a read of some contact patch guides. Just be aware its very easy to screw it up by being a very small amount out. And its catastrophic when you screw it up. 

 

Edited May 3, 2017 by ke70dave