Planning some work on my KE55, time for a build thread. Here goes: 

I bought this stock as a rock KE55 a few months ago, and have been pouring time into learning how everything works and repairing whatever issues spring up. So far, I've changed the stock carby to a 32/32 weber off a fiat 500 (or similar), given it a thorough tuneup, done a couple of suspension bushings, etc. and changed the clutch after it exploded when I was interstate. 

 

It's developed a decent misfire, and I've diagnosed this as a piston ring issue. The motor also has just on 200k kms on it. I figure if I'm going to take the motor out to fix it, I may as well change it for a 5k! I picked up a 5k (not sure what vehicle it was from) that has had a full rebuild and never been run: cylinders have been honed, oversized pistons, all new bearings, head tested and cleaned up, new double row timing chain and a clive cams 265 duration cam grind. It didn't come with anything attached, so dizzy, manifolds, carby, alternator, fuel pump, flywheel clutch, oil filter, engine plate, etc. are all going to come off the old motor. 

It's also missing the pushrods, so I am planning on getting these this week and putting the motor back together with a new head gasket, doing the welch plugs, gaskets and seals, and generally getting it ready for the other motor to come out so the old parts can be transplanted. This is my first time doing anything this involved, so there has been a lot of reading the yellow book, gregory's manual and the how to build a tough 4k thread. 

All things going to plan I will find a hoist to borrow and try and drop the new motor in in the next fortnight. I think I'll need to take it to an exhaust shop and get a full exhaust (including extractors), before the swap, since the cammed 5k in unlikely to run too well on the stock exhaust. 

Here are some photos of the engine bay as is, and the 5k parts:

 

I'll update as it comes along, and will probably need advice on this or that! 

Thanks for reading

 

Jasper

Edited February 5, 20188 yr by Wingsforwheels

Enjoy your project.

5ks are great 

Yesterday was the day:

Pulled the old engine, swapped all the hang ons over to the 5k, and dropped it in complete with a set of extractors. Put the gearbox on and took the old exhaust off since it was pretty unstable without being bolted to the manifold. 

 

This arvo I reinstalled the drive shafts and the starter motor. Just the water pump, radiator and alternator to go in now. After that I'll give the carb and dizzy some adjustments, put in engine and trans oil, water in the cooling system, and nervously turn the key.

I'm a little worried about the noise given it's only got headers on, so I might have to push it down the road a little to appease the neighbours. The plan is to start it up, wear in the cam, and then drive her to the exhaust shop to get a full exhaust welded up! 

Edited March 5, 20188 yr by Wingsforwheels

Everything is ready to turn the key! 

I'm a newbie in terms of running in an engine, etc.--is there anyone on here who could give me a hand for an hour or two who knows and could guide me through the first start, breaking in the cam and all? I'm in Melbourne, Brunswick West specifically

 

 

I'm in sydney, so a bit far from what I hear is "hipster city" Brunswick

But, you essentially want to disable the ignition (e.g.  remove coil lead) and crank it over for oil pressure first. Try crank it till the oil light goes out. If that is taking too long, just crank it many times and check you have oil in the top of the engine. 

You then want to check your oil dipstick level, as you have likely filled up your oil filter by now.

After that's all good, you reconnect your ignition and turn your carby idle speed screw in the 'idle fast' direction. Kick her over, and keep the revs up for a good 10 mins while the cam runs in. You can also jam a piece of cardboard under the throttle stop so you can walk away. You want the idle speed at about 3000rpm.

If you havent already bought engine oil, go buy some running in oil that has a zinc content. I have been using Penrite oils myself.

 

On 12/03/2018 at 10:05 PM, 7000rpm said:

I'm in sydney, so a bit far from what I hear is "hipster city" Brunswick

The real question is whether KE Corollas will one day become the new hipster car--if they do I'll be ready!

 

Thanks for the response Wayne, I'll be following these instructions for sure, and I've read a little around the place about breaking in.

I've been pretty hectic with uni, but should be back to the car to start it next week, so I'll post how it goes!

The swap is coming along well. She started first try after I built up oil pressure and put a bit of fuel in the float bowl. 

Next issue is the clutch--it's not disengaging at all. It seems like the clutch arm is going all the way to the front of the hole in the gearbox without too much resistance, and not actually pushing the pressure plate diaphragm spring. I've adjusted the cable to spec, and took the box off to check that the clips were connected properly on the release bearing housing and the little ball bit on the far side of the clutch arm (not sure what this bit is called?) 

I'm going take the box off again this arvo and check that the new flywheel that came with the 5k is the same depth as the old--I suspect the old one might have been a little bit deeper. If they're different I guess I'll have to swap them over, unless anyone has any ideas about adjusting to compensate for a depth difference in flywheels? 

The good news is I have the gearbox removal/installation process down to about 1 hour haha

Edited March 23, 20188 yr by Wingsforwheels

I think most end up running the 4k flywheel, than the larger 5k unit.

So you have the circlip on the cable adjuster, the circlip installed in the gearbox bellohousing, and the clutch fork has the return spring hooked up?

Its also important to have the right pressure plate deck height, which can be shimmed between the flywheel and the pressure plate, in the bolt holes.

Ahh right, I didn't think of shimming the pressure plate! The flywheel I got given was supposedly a 4k one though I have my doubt... 

Either way, I just swapped it over for the old one and voila! Took the 5k for her first drive around the block, and it is great! 

We have success! Wohoo!

Well done. 

How is it comparing?? Nice torque gain?

 

Yeah! It does feel torquier already, but maaan is it loud with just headers, so exhaust is next... It also needs a bit of a tune, seems like the fuel mix adjustment on the carby is a bit temperamental right now--maybe the lack of backpressure with just headers? Or the piston rings still seating, meaning changes in vacuum conditions?

Really looking forward to this as a daily though!

Edited March 24, 20188 yr by Wingsforwheels

Cool Jasper

Yeah a complete exhaust will help your cause. can't get an accurate measurement of performance with just headers on these

Alright so I got the exhaust done, and it runs a dream! The carb needs rejetting for the bigger motor, but even so it was a beautiful drive yesterday. Until...

After an hour or so of driving to pick up my girlfriend I started getting a really bad flat spot under light acceleration--at about half throttle it would stumble and shake, but then the revs would climb when I put my foot down.

This quickly developed to not being able to take off, it spluttering and wanting to die until I really gave it some beans--although it still idles just fine, missing a little! In the end I had to park her and get the tram home! 

I'm going to go have a look today with a couple of theories--I know the timing is set to 10 degrees BTDC, and is advancing fine under load, so I'm going to start by changing the points and condensor (even though the former looks like new, and I know the latter to be brand spanking new). I'll also clean out all the carb jets, and check the float level. 

I also have a different idea, that the fuel tank might have a significant amount of water in it. I know the seal around the filler isn't great, because I've had this issue in the past after leaving her out in the rain. When I filled her up yesterday, I could only fit 8 litres in, and I was sure it was lower than that before the engine swap... I also noticed some white smoke (steam?) out the exhaust when idling after the issue started yesterday, and I know the head gasket is fine--I just changed it, and there's no other evidence of a leak i.e. loss of oil or coolant, one mixed in the other, etc.  

Has anyone had similar issues caused by water in fuel? (Or caused by anything I haven't mentioned here?)

 

Thanks!

 

P.S. admins, is the idea that I should post this kind of thing in the rides section now that I've made a rides thread?

 

re: the water in petrol theory, I'm going to take a terry can of fuel when I visit the car and put fresh fuel in the flat bowl--if it runs well for the first few minutes and then back to stumbling and sputtering, I guess I'll have to do the annoying tank draining.

Sounds like you are onto something with water in the fuel. Matches the symptoms too.

Maybe try cranking it over with the fuel line pointed into a clear glass jar, and see what it looks like