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Electronic Distributor For 4k Engine


Tham

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As I said this is the way I found it set up on the 4K in the yard and I put it on mine the same, but it is not neccessarily the correct way ?

 

Thanks again.

 

Yes, I believe your setup is correct and is the

one used on the stock engine.

 

I've followed your setup and the engine appears

to run normally, except for some sluggishness

at acceleration and climbing slopes. Maybe my

piston rings are worn, or the vacuum advance

diaphragms are not in very good condition. Fuel

consumption appears to have improved a little.

 

I'm using one of those metal splitters with taps

found in aquarium pumps for the hoses, so I could

experiment shutting off the vacuum for each port

of the diaphragm. Shutting off the inner stage makes

the engine more sluggish, and shutting the outer one

even worse. So I've opened up both ports.

 

I tried connecting the vacuum delay valve to

either of the two ports, and disconnecting it,

but there didn't seem to be much difference.

 

I'll try using the electronic coil later. It comes

without a ballast resistor, so I wonder if adding

the resistor from the old coil might reduce the

current and protect it from overheating.

Edited by Tham
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Hi again....

 

U mention that is was internally ignited....

 

Does that mean we dun need the coil....

 

The distributor for the 4K/5K uses an external

coil. Later engines, such as the Proton Sagas

(Iswara models) made after the mid-90's, has the

ignitor, transformer coil and electronic advance all

built inside the distributor housing.

 

Soon Choi will give you a used coil if you buy

this distributor from them. He gave me one by

Hanshin marked "For Transistor Ignitor", though

it looked very old.

 

They also have ones with the ignitor strapped

on top of a Nippondeso coil, but he said those

are for other engines.

 

As I mentioned in my earlier posts, you can also

buy new electronic coils made by Diamond from

most spare parts shops. I've also seen a very cute

transformer coil by Diamond with a ballast resistor,

meant for points distributors, but can also be used

with electronic ignitors. You can buy it at Takara Auto

in Ipoh Road for around $40.

Edited by Tham
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dear tham..

 

i ustand that u bought a 5k dizzy...

what is the good of 5k dizzy compared to 4k electronic dizzy?

will 5k dizzy give better fuel consumption??

 

another question...

my coil is givin me problem lately.. Miss fires when i switch on the aircond and approach hills...

 

can i change my coil to a electronic dizzy type and remain with the contact point dizzy??

 

thanks..

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The distributor is more or less a universal type

made by Nippondenso for the K-series engines.

 

All these electronic ignition units, whether stock

and built into the distributor, or after-market

external type, including those designed by

electronic magazines such as the high energy

unit by Silicon Chip, basically involve a trigger

unit - an LED sensor, magnetic reluctor, Hall

effect sensor or the points itself, and a power

transistor as an electronic switch.

 

In the more sophisticated designs, an IC regulates

the coil current (as in the Silicon Chip unit) and

electronic advance can also be built in, such as

those by MSD.

 

Thus the above distributor can be used on the

3K, 4K, 5K and probably the K, 2K and 7K as well.

 

The electronic coil can also usually be used with

contact points. My brother-in-law had a Mitsubishi

Lancer with an electronic distributor and coil. One day,

the distributor gave way, and he replaced it with

the original points one. Didn't change the coil, and

the engine started and ran normally.

 

You can buy a used Hanshin electronic coil from Soon

Choi for $10. Or why not buy the Diamond transfomer

coil from Takara Auto ? Very compact unit.

 

Takara Auto Parts Specialists

11, Jln Bacang, off Ipoh Rd

51200 Kuala Lumpur

 

 

Are you sure it is your coil ? Could be your

points or plugs.

Edited by Tham
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actually i m confused!! my mechanic said those missfire might caused by

 

the ballast resistor as it did not performed well in the oscilloscope!!!

 

and he said it might be due to the vavles not shutting properly!!

 

if ballast resistor is the cause, then there is no separate resistor sold, so

 

have to get the whole coil!!

 

anyway i m planning to change my distributor 2 the electronic one!!

 

i think i ll change the coil first than go with the distributor!!

 

a bit tight budget bcos goin to upgrade to K50 5speed g/box next month!

 

thanks!

Edited by rsdn
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hey the dizzy in those photobucket pics is for a 4kE or 5kE, not sure on the 5k as we never got the 5k

it's the same dizzy daisy uses

the one pickup fires the coil

the other pickup fires the injectors.....fyi

btw; you can leave the inner connection disconnected, the retard just helps for emissions on deceleration. however the advance could be too high without it

Edited by mikeys toy
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the one pickup fires the coil

the other pickup fires the injectors.....fyi

 

It only had two wires coming from it and they were both connected either side of the coil, one to

+ve and the other to -ve.

 

So I guess each wire was for a pick-up?

 

Do you know which is which, or if it even matters?

 

Cheers, w.

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the part under the smaller plastic cover is the reluctor (or whatever these things use to trigger the signal), and the larger plastic cover is over the internal ignitor. i think it does matter which way they are wired up. i have the wiring connections written down around here somewhere...

 

the 4k electronic dizzy's i have seen, run a seperate external ignitor attached to the coil.

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and he said it might be due to the vavles not shutting properly!!

 

Why don't you ask him to loosen the valve

clearances then ?

 

But I doubt if somewhat tight tappets can

cause misfirings when the engine is under

mechanical or electrical load.

Sounds more like an ignition problem.

 

if ballast resistor is the cause, then there is no

separate resistor sold, so have to get

the whole coil!!

 

My usual spare parts shop in Segambut,

Sheng Hua, showed me a Hitachi coil without

a ballast resistor the other day, model C1Z-500.

 

Probably has resistance wire in the coil windings.

Cost about $40 again. Can be used with both

points and ignitors, I believe. Should be a good

choice.

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  • 1 month later...

This was taken from the Hayne's manual on

the Toyota Starlet. I think it was based on

the 4K-E engine.

 

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/THAM_4K/DIST.jpg

 

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/THAM_4K/DIST1.jpg

 

 

The electronic distributor looks basically

the same as the ones which some of us

have here.

 

The connection diagram is for fuel injection,

but note that the vacuum advance for the

distributor's lower stage appears to be

taken from the intake manifold, with the

upper one going to the standard vacuum

inlet above the throttle butterfly.

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  • 3 months later...

Hey guys, I've been getting some conflicting information and decided to ask here for a definitive answer.

I've got an electronic distributor and i read on the boards to run a gt40 coil. But i've since heard that these fry the dizzys after about 2 months as the lekky dizzy wasnt designed for the higher voltage coil. So does anyone know what coil i should have?

 

Cheers Justin

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