My Ke15 And Ke16

[Felix]

geez the old girl really lifts her skirts and gets up and goes now. :dance:

 

gets to 80mph in 2/3rds of the distance it used to take. this 4k has awesome midrange pull. it will really go when i update this crap aisan carb. goes so much harder than the stock ke70 4k which came out (which compression tested at 150-160 psi).

 

it is so much louder. the missus said she could hear me about a kay up the road. could only hear it for about half the distance before from home.

 

the exhaust rattle is gone. it was bad as the sports exhaust was setup to run above the gearbox xmember between the gearbox and the tunnel. i used exhaust thermo wrap.... evil stuff, makes you itchy.

 

very happy so far. no leaks or anything. :abuse:

Edited April 25, 2010 by Felix

[Rolliac]

Hay Felix how about an update? Some pics too. :dance:

[Felix]

Yea need to get some pics up and update things. The 15 should be getting stripped and repainted soon, just received a windscreen/door rubber kit for it last week. Hasn't been driven for a bit, had a rear wheel cylinder shit itself.

 

The 16 is deregistered and needs a lot of work as the body is pretty rough on it. Be another year or two before I worry about it to much.

 

I'll see if I can get some pics up shortly, but will probably be distracted for a while with my new toy coming tomorrow....

[philbey]

Yeh, pics pics pics.

 

Whats the new toy?

[Felix]

Well it has been over a year now since I last drove my ke15. Been a long time since I've looked at this thread, just went back through and reuploaded the few old pics that weren't working.

 

This afternoon I finished off putting in the rear wheel cylinders, shoes, adjusted them up and also adjusted the handbrake. Just need to bleed the brakes. Wanted to do it this evening, but I'm stuffed after being really crook the last few days.

 

Hopefully tomorrow it is coolish, and I can bleed the brakes, and put it back on its wheels. Push it out of the shed, jump start it, maybe flush the radiator and go buy a new battery for the thing. It is still registered so ready to go as soon as I pull my finger out.

 

Want to get the old beast going again as I need the shed space, plus a cool car to drive around while I put the E32 up on stands in the shed for some suspension components, new rear shocks a set of front lowered springs and a replacement powersteering pump (once I track one down) which just shat itself. I must say working on the ke15 is a joy, everything is small, light and simple. Actually getting excited at the thought of driving the thing, miss the power and chuckability.

Edited April 25, 2010 by Felix

[camerondownunder88]

Better be driving my way :wink: In it.

 

Also want fast way to bleed brakes...

 

Get a container run 2 hoses from it. one to bleeder nipple on brake and one hose to inlet manifold. Loosen off brake bleeder nipple. Start car start filling brake master cylinder as car sucks through brake fluid. If I am by my self I just kill engine from in the bay and presto go tighten brake nipple. Easy fast sucks a LOT of old crappy dirt out to.

 

With vacuum jar 2 hoses glued in top make sure vac line to manifold wont suck in old brake fluid. I have hose going from brake to vac jar bent towards the side so as fluid comes out you can see colour and know when to stop (helps when doing a full flush.

 

Took me 3 min to do whole KE15 other week. on jack attach vac system and loosen nipple start car. Stop tighten re do on front disks easy.

 

Best trick in my book beats pedal pushing and that rubbish easy cheap simple clean no fuss. Oh and another note I use a glass jar. Had engine vac crush a container once couldnt handel the force so glass is best but mus have a metal lid can solder/glue lines ot but seal out air FULLY.

 

Cameron

[Felix]

Hey Cam, that sounds like a great idea. Maybe next time though. Don't have much hose and I think the local hardware shop is closed tomorrow.

 

It is all good, I'll just get the missus or one of the kids to pump the pedal. :wink:

 

Yep, we'll have to go on a cruise somewhere with the two ke15's once the car proves it's reliability again.

[Felix]

The ke15 lives again! :wink:

 

I forgot how much fun the thing is to drive. LOL, she's a wild ride.

 

Flushed the radiator, cleaned the interior out a bit, put on the current rego sticker, missus gave it a wash while I went and got a new battery for it. She's a self contained keystarter now.

 

I'm still grinning from the short drive I had this evening.

[Rolliac]

Good to hear Felix.

 

I like how you've done a cheap, simple but effective build.

 

So does the KE3X centres fit the KE1X diff's? Is that Jap or Borge Wornar? Did ya use Ke3X axles cut down?

 

I'm sick of breaking stock KE10 diff's

Edited April 26, 2010 by Rolliac

[Felix]

I use the Jap diffs and yep the ke3x centers bolt straight in using the original ke1x axles. Just have to change the end bit on the tailshaft to match (with a new uni) the later diff flange, as the bolt patterns are different.

 

Currently have a ke35 4.33 diff in the 15.

 

Never really had an issue with breakages at all over the 8+ years the car has been on the road. Did do in bearings in the orig 4.22 diff doing motorkhanas. Excess backlash in a ke36 4.55 that had a really good hiding and got noisy as. Now on it's third center. The car can easily spin the rears through second with fairly sticky 185 yoky A539's as I rediscovered by accident. Oops. :wink:

 

I don't do rev and dumps or burnouts though.

[Felix]

I like how you've done a cheap, simple but effective build.

 

Yep, the car was always meant to be a no frills driver. My philosophy is if a mod doesn't improve the actual driving experience, it is just a waste of time and money.

 

Car 68 Ke15 Sprinter (non SL)

 

Motor: 5k with about 50-60,000 kays on the bottom end, 5k head ported by myself, double valve springs, K-line guides, 3 angle valve job, Tighe 113 cam (270 degree 400 thou lift), orig hydraulic lifters converted to solids (gutted), 3k pushrods, 4k rocker gear, double row timing chain, shimmed oilpump. ke1x ancillaries ie. waterpump, thermostat housing, alternator etc. plastic radiator fan.

 

Ignition: Scorcher recurved Bosch points dizzy, Echlin GX80 sports coil, Dick Smith High Energy Ignition Kit.

 

Induction: 28/36 DCD Weber (from mk1 1500 GT cortina), on adapter plate with ported manifold.

 

Exhaust: Pacemaker 4 into 1 extractors with 1 7/8" sports system running single reverse flow muffler.

 

Driveline: Ke70 5 speed, the pressure plate and flywheel (4k) came off a turbo bottom end I acquired years ago and have a coarse finish on driven surfaces which is very bitey. Diff is stock ke1x rear housing with ke35 4.33 center. Orig ke1x driveshaft has ke70 drive end and ke30 diff end changed onto it.

 

Brakes: Ke20 front hubs with ke30 discs. Rear std ke1x drums.

 

Front Suspension: Leaves removed. Shortened ke20 coils with ke20 top hats. ke3x HD Monroe GT front strut inserts with spacers (2 inches less droop). Whiteline 22mm front swaybar. About an inch or so lower than stock.

 

Rear Suspension: Tokiko HD hydraulic shocks (2 inches less droop), urethane shackle bushes. Std rear leaves at stock height.... Car is meant to be used, can take rear seat passengers and a boot of groceries without bottoming/scrubbing.

 

Rolling Stock: Mazda 626 (series 2?) 13x5.5" steelies with Yokohama A539 185/60x13 tyres. Has chrome trim rings.

 

Inside: Aftermarket woodrim steering wheel. Vacuum guage and small oldschool tacho mounted on steering column. AFR guage for carb tuning (O2 sensor in exhaust). Early ke10 front seats (had ke20 ones in it when I got it). overrated dashpad.

 

Probably a few things I've forgotten.

 

She's nothing flash to look at, fattened stock would be the best way to describe it. Needs some body work and a respray. The 9-10 year old little beaver paint job is looking pretty sad. Interior needs some work, seats need retrim. Intend to give her some lovin once we move soon and settle into a new house.

 

To drive it is a hell fun A to B car. Will have to get up some pics.

Edited April 26, 2010 by Felix

[philbey]

Man interesting about the diffs! Sick, that gives me loads more options on ratio's now.

 

Might FAQ that some day.

 

Where'd you get A539's, they haven't made them in a fair while.

[Felix]

You should have a 4.44 in your wagon philbey, providing it is original.

 

They are the second set of A539's that have been on the car. Picked up SuperJamies ones which had sfa kays on them and stored them until I needed them. Still have 90% tread.

 

Got 40,000 kays out of the first set, which wore pretty much even. Great tyres, pity they don't make them anymore.

[Rolliac]

have a coarse finish on driven surfaces which is very bitey.

 

Do you mean like a coarse machining of the flywheel? Is that with an organic plate?

[Felix]

Yea, has a coarse finish something like this:

 

 

Just use standard off the shelf 4k clutch discs. Has a PBR in there.

 

Had the same pressure plate (different flywheel) on my old 4k for 3 1/2 years. When I pulled it and looked at the clutch disc there was no noticable wear compared to a new clutch disc.

 

Wouldn't surprise me if the pressure plate was some sort of mild upgrade. Heavier pedal than the ke16 had. Just looks normal though, not prettily painted like a lot of upgaded pressure plates you see.

Edited April 27, 2010 by Felix