Felix Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 (edited) thought i would start a topic on my 2 daily drivers and what i have been doing to them. not so much a project thread but more like an ongoing maintenance log type thing. i bought another 28/36 DCD weber on ebay last week. i got it yesterday, rebuilt it and now it is on the warm 5k in my ke15 to replace the worn out one that i was running. this carb came off a 1500GT Mk1 cortina. the last DCD was from a fiat 1500 cabriolet i think. anyway the thing runs better than it has for a long time. just running the factory 1500GT cortina jetting so far. it is amazing how much throttle spindle wear stuffs with the way your car runs. last week i changed the diff in the ke15. the 4.5 (ke36) center i was running was getting super noisy, so i put in a 4.3 from a ke30. the 4.3 suits the sort of driving i do now a hell of a lot better. fuel economy should improve. Edited April 26, 2010 by Felix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 Sounds interesting. I guess these webers are side-draft? Was it hard to source a manifold for them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 last week: the ke16 has been having some charging issues, with the charge light staying on. i got out the multimeter and it was overcharging. usually this is a regulator issue, so i tried 3 other ones i had laying around with no change. then i pulled out the charging harness and checked it. everything was fine. so i decided to try some other alternators i had laying around. some sort of charged normally until i put a load on, some were just crap. i ended up going through 6 alternators before i found a good one, and in the process upgraded to the later larger ke30 type in the process. ;) the 4k in the ke16 is a bit smokey. i am currently in the process of putting together my old warmed over 4k that used to be in my ke15 to go in it. the 4k is a dished piston job, it has a ported head, double row timing chain, different high lift 3k-b grind cam (256 degs duration, 0.423 thou lift). the DCD weber will probably end up on this later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 I guess these webers are side-draft? Was it hard to source a manifold for them? no, down draft. bolt straight up to a dgv adaptor plate on a stock manifold. way better suited to a k series than a dgv though. they have changable venturies much like a dcoe weber. i ran 25/25mm venturis on my old warm 4k, now 26/27mm on the 5k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 (edited) hey mate just wondering how much did it cost you? i have a gemmy carb on my 3k, would it be better to get someting like this? Edited June 28, 2006 by Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 (edited) hey mate just wondering how much did it cost you? i have a gemmy carb on my 3k, would it be better to get someting like this? cost me just over $100 with postage and a new needle and seat. i also added my old throttle linkage from my previous DCD. way better than a gemmy carb. everything on this one is tunable. i ran my previous 28/36 DCD weber for ages. i had it on a near stock bigport 3k with ported head. i had 25/25mm venturis in it then. also i ran it on the afore mentioned 4k and 5k. Edited June 28, 2006 by Felix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 finished bolting together the 4k that is to go into the '16. finished decoking the ports, and scraped the head clean of old gasket. was a bit of a mission as i use gasket goo on all my headgaskets (not going to leak in a hurry ;) ). i wire wheeled all the carbon buildup off all the valves, and reground them. reassembled the head, overhead valvespring compressors are good. when it came time to bolt the head to the block i was stressing, as there were no headbolts in the boxes i put all the parts in when i partially disassembled the motor (about 2 years and 3 moves ago). must have used them for my 5k. anyway i found a box with three sets amongst all my crap, and used a set of the earlier 3k non elastic type headbolts. just need to bolt the water pump, thermostat housing and other ancillaries from the motor in the car to it now. total expenditure on this project is a can of degreaser, and some gaskets and seals from a full gasket set i bought at the markets a few years ago for $15. otherwise it is just parts recycling. :jamie: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 would a weber of a 1300 or 1600 escort be suitable for a 4k with no mods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 really there is nothing wrong with a stock carb on a stock engine. you can rejet them for better performance. personally i would wait until after an exhaust and cam before worrying about a carb change (improve the filter setup by all means). otherwise there is no real benefit, only loss of low end drivability, and lower fuel economy. i would recommend fitting a vacuum guage. if you see vacuum under full throttle conditions through the lower gears, then upgrade your carb. ie, my warm 5k in my ke15 was running a stock 3k aisan for a while.... i would see 4-5" of vacuum at full throttle through the lower gears. ;) with the DCD i have 0" vacuum. weber downdraft carbs i would recommend for a k series are 32/32 DGV (not 32/36 unless you have a 5k), 32 ADFA, 28/36 DCD, 32/34 DMTL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted July 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 pulled the motor out of the ke16 this arv. took about an hour and a half doing most of it myself with handtools, the missus helped for some things. i SOOO want a bigger compressor and an air ratchet. i'm loving the engine crane, and load leveller. the load leveller makes it easy to tilt the engine/box to the angle you want. made life so much easier considering the car has 4into1 extractors which are welded in, GRRR! :dance: had to remove both engine mounts so i had clearance to manouver it out. it was set up that way by the previous owner, anyone who adds extractors without an easily removable flange should be bitch slapped! now just need to clean things up and transfer some bits over between the two engines, before putting the new one in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 (edited) the motor is ready to go in tomorrow. was wondering why the old clutch made some odd noises, until i saw the friction plate. :dance: she's slightly fnackered. bits of rivet fell out when i separated the box from the old motor. Edited April 25, 2010 by Felix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 nice :dance: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 (edited) woohoo! disconnected the coil, cranked it over until the oil light went out. reconnected the coil and she started first go. :dance: still haven't got the radiator in it, so i didn't run it for long. sounds way tougher then the old motor. :D i'll finish it off and time it properly tomorrow. probably put my 32/32DGV weber on it later in the week. it could do with a bigger carb now. Edited April 25, 2010 by Felix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesrolla Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 that engine looks great in there, what is the booster and mastercylinder off and what kind of swaybar is it, will a ke20 one fit the front of a ke10???? good luck with it, cheers james Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 thanks. the booster and master cylinder are from a subaru (leone wagon?). it will be going shortly and be replaced with a non boosted dual circuit m/cyl from a galant. i much prefer the non boosted pedal feel. i'll also be upgrading the discs on the wagon from the ke2x ones on it now to ke30 ones. the swaybar is a whiteline 22mm item. i have them on both my cars. the motor is the nicest part of the car now. i plan on tarting up the old girl in the near future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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