hi all just wanting to know if any1 has any pics off engine mouts that have been made up for this conversion.. or if any1 has any for salthanks

dude they are just standard 2t engine mounts. its the cross member mounts that get moved forwards by cutting them off and rewelding them forwards.

 

then you will realise that the engine will be on a tilt,

the passenger side crossmember mount will be lower, so you can shave the cross member driver mount to suit or put a plate under the crossmember passenger mount to lift it up.

 

or put a plate in between the engine mount and the crossmember mount and weld to whichever you like as appropriate.

 

what you are looking for is a modified crossmember.

 

anyway the exact modification instructions link has been given to you already, i may not be correct, its what i remember off

the top of my head but at least you get the idea....

go have a look at the instructions...

Edited July 31, 200620 yr by styler

yeah i know what to do but i was just trying to get the idea of what it should look like befor i start and i do need the mounts so if any1 has any let me know.. live in the act... and if any1 has a modified crossmember i will be keen it that 2 but i don't want to pay over $150 for it because i prob be able to do it myself for around that.. thanks

go to this web site it has clear pics of the 2t engine mounts.

http://ke55.1colony.com/photo.html

i copied this of his site aswel for you, this is what i did

 

The TA22 engine mounts that bolt to the T series engine have 3 holes in them. The centre holes in each mount are where the rubber mount studs would normally bolt through. The two smaller holes either side of these centre holes are for locating the rubber mount whilst bolted to the mount. What you have to do is drill out the REAR smaller holes on the TA metal mount to the same size as the centre holes. These in essence brings the 2TG forwared in the engine bay. These are now the holes you use to bolt the mounts to the rubber sections. You will also have to grind the little locating nib off the rubber secttion of the TA mount. This allows the TA engine mount to sit flush on the rubber section in the modified position. Refer to pics to see what it should look like

i made custom engine mounts... easier than modifying the x-member...

hey how did you do the custom mounts?

i will get pics tomorrow if i remember

are u still getting the pics up..

shit sorry forgot all about it... will do it after dinner

Here in the US we also use the hydrolic clutch lever and pump from a mazda rx7 i had it in my Starlet and it worked awsome.... IMO

sorry abou the shitness but the photos are as good as i could get

 

this is what i did to my ta22 2t mounts so i didnt have to modify the cross member

by drilling a whole the same size as the main one next to the origanl whole it allows the stud to go through and make the engine sit further forward

 

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n4/rolla_1985/123456.jpg

 

hope this helps