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  2. G25-550 .72 because i like to party... Just waiting for torque converter atm Turns out the factory converter is the same 8.inch deal everyonr buys to fit to turbo rb30 600-1000hp+ deals (i have one in my vl) So he can just weld that up and modify i don't need to buy another
  3. These arrived yesterday, should make the refurbished wheels look even better.
  4. Hey guys, Chasing some bonnet trim off a ke55 as pictured in good condition, i'm located in southern Tas but willing to pay post. Cheers
  5. Hi Lewis, It would be highly unlikely that Toyota would switch a 15A circuit through the small switches in the lighting stalk. Put the 15A fuse in, switch the fog light stalk on, & then go look for a +12V signal somewhere. When you find it, pull the 15A fuse out, & make sure the +12V disappears. If there is no relay provided, then use this +12V switched signal to power a relay, which will feed another +12V fused circuit to your fog-lamps, as per the sketches, earlier in this thread. Cheers Banjo
  6. Earlier
  7. So after looking at other forums, it seems toyota did not provide a relay space. The best there is, is a 15amp fog light fuse. Looks like I'm going to be doing some wiring!
  8. Hi Lewis, If there is a factory original harness down behind the fog lights, that is not used, then that is probably for the fog lights. If you have hooked it up, you will need to add a plug-in relay, for the fog-lights to work. Toyota would not provide a relay, if there was no fog lights fitted. However, the harness & relay/fuse box would be wired for fog lights, & all you should have to do, is add relay & fuse to the relay/fuse box. Should be a goer. Cheers Banjo
  9. Hey Banjo, yes its identical apart from the foglights function. Plugged it in and everything works apart from the foglights. Is there a relay that currently is not in my car that i need to source? Cheers
  10. Hi Lewis, Is the headlight stalk, assembly, with fog light switch built in, identical to your currently fitted one, except the foglight switch function ? If so, & the plug at the end of it lead is the same as your current one, I see no reason why it can't be used. If the plug & socket is easily accessible, I'd be unplugging the installed one, & plugging in the "fog light" one, & see if all the light switching functions still work, before swapping them out. Cheers Banjo
  11. I had the kick back solenoid replaced and a transmission service including some of the linkages tightened, new fluid and filter, and she is running like a dream again!
  12. Hey, thanks for the info, just wondering if it would be a slightly different process for a headlight stalk with a fog light switch. I got one of those but don't know if just swapping it will allow it to work. Any ideas? Cheers
  13. Hello. As background information, I live in Finland so all cars is question are European Spec. I'm thinking of upgrading my 4A-FE (from 1993 Carina E, same as the one from Corolla AE100, with Denso distributor) with bottom end from 1998 Avensis AT221. Basicly making Celica AT200 7A-FE engine on tight budget. Carina E 7A-FE would also be available, but they are Lean Burn engines so they have different heads as they have flaps in intake. I don't know if old style intake would even fit and is the head flowing as good as older one? Can 4A-FE ECU control increased capacity correctly or do I have to find AT200 Celica ECU? Are injectors with same resistance and do they fit or do I have to find Celica injectors too? How about camshaft profiles and combustion chambers in pistons and heads, basicly how much does compression ratio change and do valves have enough room to open correctly? Celica Carina and Avensis have different part numbers for pistons. Conrods are same between Avensis and Carina E 7A-FE but not the same in Celica. You have to use 7A-FE pistons as piston pin is 2mm larger than 4A-FE pin. You cannot use Avensis head as it does not have place for distributor. AT200 7A-FE head is the same part number as 4A-FE Carina E head. Problem is that AT200 Celica engines are hard to find and expensive in Finland, but Avensis wrecks are found everywhere and cost almost nothing. So my question is basicly if difference between Carina 4A-FE and Avensis 7A-FE is made mechanically by changing port/valve sizes and angles and/or camshaft profiles/lift in the head to reduce emissions and lower power or is it all made electrically in ECU and with intake and exhaust profiles? And yes, 7A-GE would be nice but idea is to retain 4A-FE stock engine management and keep the car "daily driven". I have multiple 4A-FE heads but no 7A-FE bottom ends, I would like to know which one I have to find. I'm thinking about few different engines so this information is for future build.
  14. Have dissembled & cleaned this Mazda 121 EGi (Electronic Gasoline Injection), cross between a carby & a throttle body. It appears to be made by Hitachi, including the TPS & MAF sensors. Trying to discover it's design criteria, & how it works. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a running Mazda 121, with an EGi "carby" fitted, which would provide a broader input, & something to play with, & take some measurements. However, I was able to download a free Factory workshop Manual, that did throw light into where all those ofrifices going in & out of the dicast body. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ https://www.manualslib.com/download/1031156/Mazda-121.html The whole design is quite simple, & does, (as I hoped) lack the tiny little internal passages in the dicaste body, like our common Aisin carby, with it's idle, low, & main fuel jets & paths within, which can be so problematic. The EGi unit, has a mechanical screw idle adjustment, with initial mechanical coolant temperature idle adjustment, when the engine is cold. Once the engine warms up, the electronic bypass valve comes into play. So the EGi is a mixture of olde world mechanical & new world electronic control. The EGi is manufactured in two pieces. The top casting includes the single injector & integral fuel rail. The bottom half is the throttle body proper. Top half of the EGI, viewed from the bottom, clearly displaying the single injector discharge point, smack in the middle of the venturi. Top view of the previous pic, The "fuel rail" passes straight across the casing, pressured fuel entering on the LHS, & the fuel pressure regulator, with return & atmospheric compensation on the RHS. The MAF sensor fits to the flat on the bottom of this pic. The resistive elements are in the hole are in the airstream through the dished hole, which then swirls around, & re-enters the venturi above the butterfly, through two openings. Same pic, but with the cover removed to show the injector snuggly fitted in the centre. Top view of the throttle body. The thermostatic idle control for cold engine is seen in the top RH corner of picture. I want to take the injector out, to ultrasonically clean it, but have not been able to remove it, as yet. It appears that you push it back up, but it won't budge, & I don't want to apply any more pressure, in case I crack or break the dicast "bridge" across the venturi. Suggestions welcome. From Manual: P.S. Just got it out. There are two (2) "O" rings supporting it, as I thought, but being old & hard, & stiff, they took a bit of budging. Here are pics, with injector removed. This is the cold engine idle control, which is disengaged, once the coolant reaches temp. Have measured it compressed length at room temp, then dropped it in a saucepan of hot water, withdrew it, & measured it again, to ensure it had expanded. Works well. One trick I found worked well, last night, while tracing the passage ways in the body, was to shine an LED pencil light into a hole, in a dark room, & then pier into the other holes, to see which ones were joined. There was enough reflection from the passageway walls, that you could see the light around bends & corners. Cheers Banjo
  15. K50 Gearbox ex KE70 When I run a straight edge across the backstop flange, it just clears the heads of the bolts, that retain the front Bearing Cover to the gearbox case. That should allow the CSC assembly to pass over the bolt heads, without issues. I would suggest that the removal of the Clutch Fork Pivot head, would be an ideal point, to mount the location rod, that comes with the ACE CSC, to prevent it from rotating on the central spigot. The radial dimension from the centre line if the gearbox shaft, & the centre of the fork pivot ball, is exactly 50mm. Hopefully, the slot in the side of the ACE CSC, will accomodate this dimension. As long as the "depth" of the ACE CSC is not much deeper than 45mm, I can't foresee too many issues arising. The only requirement, I can see, to making this all work; is to match the Fixed Spigot OD, with the ID hole in the ACE CSC. I suspect, this spigot, may be a tad too small in OD, at 27.5mm. That surely can be fixed by pressing on a tubular sleeve, with an interference fit, then turning that sleeve down to the required OD. I'll contact Mal wood, this week, & see if the ACE unit is suitable. Hopefully, they have converted a Rolla GB, previously, & it's all go. Cheers Banjo
  16. More can be found on the subject of CSCs (Concentric Slave Cylinders) at the link below, on another thread in this forum. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/76019-ke70-cable-to-hydraulic-clutch/?tab=comments#comment-721367
  17. More on the subject of Concentric Slave Cylinder conversions, can be found at this other thread on RollaClub https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/77940-upper-thermostat-housing/#comments
  18. That's a good idea. Funny how these threads start off in one area, & emerge into associated topics. I'll put a link in both topics, so anyone reading either, can find the other. Looking forward to any pics you have of your CSC (Concentric Slave Cylinder) conversion. Cheers Banjo
  19. That's good ! I can't imagine that Catalytic Converters were fitted by Toyota, back in 1979. I like that wording of Historic/Classic, in the same sentence. I would regard our early Rollas, as classics, but never "historic". I went to an all British Car show in Sydney a couple of years ago, & there certainly were some "historic" olde cars there. Cheers Banjo
  20. No catalytic is my original choice so glad you guys are backing it haha. So no cat it is!! My car is registered as a historic/classic vehicle so I don't need to have emissions performed on my car since it is not a daily driver. Therefore, I don't NEED to have a cat in my Rolla for emissions. 😉
  21. Maybe we should add this stuff in the "KE70 cable to hydaulic-clutch" thread where more people are likely to find/see it? I'll dig up some more pics of my conversion and add it in there.
  22. I've been looking at the ACE concentric slave clutch throw-out bearings, from Mal Wood Automotive, in Warwick Qld. https://malwoodauto.com.au/ These look to be well built, & are half the price, of the ones from the USA, as they don't require a new front gearbox bearing cover & spigot, for each specific type of gearbox. It has multiple ports for the hydraulic lines in & out. It has a simple locator slot, through which passes a threaded rod, that just replaces one of the bearing cap retaining bolts, to stop the assembly from rotating. Looks like it would fit my KE70 5 speed GB. Picture below is on a Supra GB. I've just had a look at a spare KE70 5 speed GB, I've got in the shed. It appears the spigot, which supports the bearing carrier, is about 27.5mm in diameter. I'd suggest that is probable a bit to small for the above unit. However, it should only require a simple tubular sleeve to be turned up, to make it fit perfectly. I'll clean out the KE70 GB bellhousing area, in the morning, & accurately, measure everything up. I'll then contact Mal Wood Automotive & see if, 1. They have ever done a concentric clutch slave cylinder throw-out bearing, on a Rolla clutch/gearbox, or 2. Whether the dimensions I provide, can be accommodated. If anyone on this forum has used these ACE units previously, please chime in, & let us know your experience with them. Sounds & looks promising. Cheers Banjo
  23. Pretty strict there I think, from what I've read, although there are references to "whether you drive the car, in the cities like Phoenix & Tuson". Maybe if you live out in the sticks, anything goes, same as in Australia. I did read that old catalytic converters, are not to be sold, included in scrap metal. Did spot this one on the web. Cheers Banjo
  24. What's the Arizona requirement for a Cat. I sure as hell wouldn't run one if you don't have to
  25. Hi Misael, I'd definitely go "catless" ! With a pussy cat in your exhaust system, it tends to attract lots of other cats . . . . . . . . . . . & dogs. On top of that, the incessant meowing would drive you crazy ! Keep in touch Cheers Banjo
  26. If you like the ae9* series then maybe just look out for a good condition twincam version such as the gti or seca, they are seemingly just getting bought by a certain wrecker at the moment and parted out, seems a huge waste and only seems to happen because they get more money for the car than selling whole. Pisses me off no-end, especially when they part out rarer jdm Levin's like the gt-z and brz.
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