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Thanks mate I’ll chase them up see what they can do for me. Cheers 👍

Just because its not listed on a catalogue doesnt mean a reputable piston manufacturer cant make it for you. custom pistons can be had. As an example - https://www.wiseco.com/custom-pistons/

Fellas, thank you both for your input. outstanding! I've had a wee looking into measuring cc's etc, as you say, looks rather easy with a pipette. All things to be discussed further down the track once we've had a good look inside. I look forward to coming back to you both with pictures of where we're at hopefully by Sunday. All the best team, cheers

Hey guys n girls, I’m pretty new to this type of stuff so sorry in advance to all if I muck up. I’m building a 7afe turbo 4 my 112 & forged pistons are near impossible to find, anyone out in Rolla land know of any in oz ? I have found some in China but you have to buy 7 sets 4 $2,500(approx). Ok they work out for $400 a set but wtf am I gonna do with 7 sets? I’ve got Spool rods, balanced the crank, new bearings, seals,….etc. I’m pushing almost 20 psi into a fresh one built in January this year (2024) with 40thou over hypatec pistons, again new seals etc… siruda head gasket (stopper) & holy hell what a lot of fun 😝. I’ve blown 2 motors in 2 years (bending rods in 1, hole in number 3 piston through the oil control ring in the other). So, any help from anyone out there would be greatly appreciated. 👍✌️

Glad it worked for you ! Many of the aftermarket tachos, require an input signal, that is a 5V DC or 12V DC square wave, frequency signal. Unfortubately, when these after market tachos, are attached to a conventional CB ignition system, they don't like the large spike voltage, that appears at the negative terminal of the ignition coil, every time the primary current in the ignition coil collapses. There are a number of interface circuits & suggestions on the internet, to allow you to use the aftermarket tachos, with a conventional single coil CB ignition system. The reverse also happens, when a modern ECU is added to an older car, where the ECU tacho output is a 5V or 12V DC square wave variable frequency signal. This does have the large spike, which the original tacho in the older car, is expecting. Again, the internet provides a couple of fixes, to reintroduce the collapsing coil current spike, so the cars original tacho, can be utilised. Often this can be as simple as having the ECU tacho signal, switch a driver, that operates/switches on, an ordinary 12V automotive relay; whose collapse will still produce a spike, high enough, to trigger the older cars original tacho. Cheers Banjo

Update: So I managed to resolve the Tacho meter issue, When the tacho was connected to the coil it didnt give a smooth reading. It wobbled arround, so after some searching found out if I connect a lowpass filter I can cut off the unnecessary noise and get a proper signal, so I added a lowpass filter and managed to solve the issue. now It's working properly. Thank you all for your support.

This!! "You strip it gradually, & tag everything, so that when you put it back together; in months to come; & that everything is in plastic bags or bottles, clearly marked; particularly nuts & bolts. " Then run up a budget and see what costs the most and what gives the best bang for buck. Think about what you're going to use the car for and what rpm you'll be using.. Most of what you are talking about I did in here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Its not hard to cc a combustion chamber, the answer I got was 31cc, the area was 30Sqcm and in the end I took 20thou off the head, in theory giving it 9.7:1 compression ratio. Nothing great or radical. It ran on E10 most its life. The thing most people don't have is a pipette to measure the volumes of turps put in a head, its worth buying a 25ml one. The area is just tracing around a bit of graph paper and counting the squares. Then a stock motor has a cylinder volume of 322cc, that's just multiplying bore & stroke, so add 7.3cc for the head gasket and add the chamber volume of 31cc and you get a total volume of 360cc, which crushes down to 31+7=38cc. That's a compression ratio of 9.4:1, which is just what Rollaclub Wiki says... I sent my cam off & bought a Crow 606 grind, not wild but an improvement, and you don't need to change valve springs. I had the flywheel lightened, bought some extractors and then the hard work started. I wouldn't use a DD Weber, go for SUs or better would be a single DCOE Weber, and I reckon best would be quad bike carbs off a 1000cc Suzuki GXR or similar, the Keihins are pretty common on older bikes. Tommys KE11 has them on here- Make sure the manifolds all line up perfectly & give the ports a bit of a cleanout to match all the joints. Have the electronic dizzy looked over for its timing advance curve, you don't want it as slow as a forkhoist! Another really handy tool is a mixture display, especially if you're tuning things yourself. Let us know how you go-

Hi mate, Thanks for a prompt response! From a recon perspective we're not too limited on budget and at a bare minimum I'd like to have the pistons out to do rings and main/rod bearings. We're treating this as a learning exercise more than anything so I'd like to give everything a bit of a once over if we can. Will take a heap of photos and get back to the thread sometime in the next week or so. I think this'll be a good thread to run with some input & photos from a complete learner on the first build. We're not under any time pressure either as i don't have a rolling body yet so we'll just chip away steadily and get it right. Really looking forward to it. Thanks again for for a snappy response, really appreciate it. Cheers Banjo

Hi Thomas, Welcome aboard, & plenty of people on here, that would be only too willing, to offer you advice, when necessary. If you are working to a budget, then I would suggest, that once you get the engine home; that You strip it gradually, & tag everything, so that when you put it back together; in months to come; & that everything is in plastic bags or bottles, clearly marked; particularly nuts & bolts. Once it is completely stripped, you will be physically able tp inspect things like bores & rings, & big end & main bearing slippers etc. If your 4K happens to be a 4K-U model, You will be in luck; as that variation of the 4K; put out more horsepower, than the regular 4K-C, which had a lot of California compliance gear on it. (hence the "C") Once you've inspected everything, you'll have a much better idea, of what needs to be done, as a minimum. Then if you budget allows, you can tackle other items like cam grind, performance valve strings, & maybe working the head. Greatest issue in trying to "get more power", from a K Series motor was the head design. Not being cross-flow doesn't help, but the intake & exhaust passages were pretty ordinary, & the engine can be made to perform much better, with port & polish, & removing lips etc, that reduce flow. My advice is, to take lots of photos, whilst you are stripping it down. K Series engines are getting pretty olde now, & it could be original, or it may have already had a reco, at sometime in it's life. You are about to find out. We look forward to hearing about the teardown, & seeing some pics, as you go. Cheers Banjo

Hi Team, So I've had a few Kp's in the past and have done pretty much everything with them except for opening up the motor an attempting a rebuild. I Decided recently that I wouldn't mind trying to build a hot wee 4k in the shed through winter and as natural progression follows, finding a kp rolling body to dump it in when the opportunity presents itself. We're not going for a crazy build here, this is an opportunity for me to tinker in the shed and try my hand at building an engine from the bottom up on the work bench. Street driven, peppi town driving and passing a few mazda demios on the highway haha. Basic run down of the build as I see it rolling out: Feel free to interject Completely tear down the engine Send the head & block off to be acid washed/cleaned Head skimmed Block resurfaced/cleaned up Honed/bored out 40thou for acl pistons? Build spec: Pistons Mild cam 270 Deg? Main bearings Frost plugs Head gasket Timing chain Valve spring set webber 32/36 downdraught lightened fly Extractors Electronic dizzy My Questions: When it comes skimming heads, resurfacing blocks and the thickness of the head gasket... My knowledge begins to disappear. Remember, we're ultimately building this in the shed for 1. Me to learn 2. to have a bit of fun 3. to not break the bank. But with that in mind I'm happy to spend money where necessary as I want to make a good solid job of it. Basically, my question is this.. Should I be skimming to make higher compression or should I just get the head & block resurfaced so we can slap it back together. If the answer is skim for higher compression, what else needs to be considered when upping the comp? when we start talking about measuring cc's and all that jazz I'm all out of ideas. Should I send my factory cam away for a regrind or go with something aftermarket? Valve springs.. Kelford performance valve springs? Balancing the engine, Is it necessary? OEM Headgasket or go with a metal head gasket? Thank you for taking the time to read and help out, I have done my research through various forums but I can't seem to find a dumbed down answer for my application. I plan on picking the motor up this week and firing into the methodical and well organised tear down.

Actually, if I find someone local I have a set of original window seals for the middle window where my rear passenger doors are. Yes any rubbers that came close to working I would hoover up I could have those made up into new seals for the panel can guys

well it took a long time finally find someone, but if you look up old is hot corolla on facebook youll find them. It has taken me literally years of emailing people and asking lord knows how many parts suppliers. I think I must have messaged everyone selling old toyota parts on facebook and eventually there was someone in the USA who was willing to have a go at remaking them if someone could get them a pattern and whole bunch of pics. fast forward some emailing, patterns, etc and we may have some actual replacement seals. but ill keep you posted if/when they arrive and how they fit

The panel van guys will be in a frenzy if they wake up to this. How do you find someone to remake a seal?

"the indexing of the pin that locates the front of the camshaft to the rear of the camshaft sprocket, is incremented in 12 degree camshaft degrees, whereas, leaving the pin in the original pin hole, & moving the chain one tooth on the camshaft sprocket only moves the timing 10 degrees. " So if you go forward one tooth and back one pin, you change it 2deg?

Hey all! Just picked up a 76 wagon that is in need of some TLC. Needs driver side rear door glass, entire interior, and all weatherstripping and seals. Priority at the moment is rear hinges, which I have been entirely unable to locate so if anyone here has a paid they’d sell, or if someone could tell me how to repair mine? Having a hard time sourcing parts here in the states, so I’ll gladly take any suggestions for places to find what I’m looking for.

Hi Si, That is a perfectly reasonable explanation, which is why I've tried tried to get hold of the installation instructions for what I believe is a CS9000 Rollamaster dual link K Series kit, that came with everything, including a new chain tensioner & guide. I've searched the internet, without any joy. Rollmaster I believe is a Queensland company originally, but looking at their website, they now seem to cater mostly, for USA V8 engines. A lot of chatter on the internet, indicates their instructions may be "confusing". My "mental block" is; that irrespective how far you move the camshaft sprocket in one direction or the other, it can only be in "full chain link increments". So moving the link on the crankshaft sprocket 1 tooth clockwise, is the same as moving the chain on the camshaft sprocket 2 teeth. However, the indexing of the pin that locates the front of the camshaft to the rear of the camshaft sprocket, is incremented in 12 degree camshaft degrees, whereas, leaving the pin in the original pin hole, & moving the chain one tooth on the camshaft sprocket only moves the timing 10 degrees. If the pin location on the back of the camshaft sprocket is a "vernier" adjustment, how can it be a vernier adjustment, when it moves 12 degrees, when the full link I've completely missed something here, but can't quite see, where I have got it wrong. Could it be thank you move the link 2 off camshaft sprocket teeth, being 20 camshaft degrees; then index it back, with the pin 12 camshaft degrees; resulting in an effective change of 8 camshaft degrees. That is still 16 crankshaft degrees. It's got to be something weird like this, but I'll never know, until I uncover the original instructions. The only basic instructions I could find; was here on RollaClub website, posted by Aidan in 2014. Apparently the instructions are different for most of the Rollmaster kits, because they are working with all different engine manufacturers, where one solution, does not fit all applications. Cheers Banjo

This is where the numbers around the outside of the cam gear come in. You don't just move to a new hole and that's it, you've gotta re index the chain using the corresponding number as the new 'tdc' mark. I've never done it with mine, but I'm sure that will somehow give far more incremental changes 👍

Advancing the camshaft (turning the cam sprocket clockwise) makes the inlet open earlier and close earlier, as you say, but it also makes the exhaust open earlier on the power stroke and close earlier on the top of the exhaust stroke. It turns the diagram here backwards, anti-clockwise. So inlet opens 15deg BTDC, exhaust closes 15deg ATDC, and at the other end the exhaust opens 50deg before the bottom and inlet closes earlier at 50deg ABDC. The piston is hardly moving at the top if you measure mm per deg, so these changes are not a big deal. At the other end its more important. The exhaust opens earlier, using less of the expansion of the burning fuel pressure, and the inlet closes earlier so the cylinder may not fill with fuel & air quite as much. The inlet closing is usually the most important one. If your adjustable wheel is anything like the Datsun ones, the teeth and the holes will not line up. The tooth will move 16deg, but one hole moves 4deg, a 2nd makes it 8deg and the 3rd 12deg, then the next tooth is 16deg back on hole 1. This should be fun!

I had a close look at the RollMaster double link chain kit, I purchased a few years back, & fitted to my 5K test engine, to see how many degrees of crankshaft advance or retard, was possible, using the markings on the new Rollmaster camshaft sprocket, for mating with the location pin, on the end of the camshaft. i believe the Rollmaster kit I purchased was a model CS9000. Here is a thread on here from 13 years ago. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/54177-rollmaster-cs9000-adjustable-timing-gear/ The camshaft sprocket has a total of 36 teeth around it. The crankshaft sprocket has 18 teeth on, it, as you would expect, as 36/18 equals 2; & it takes 2 revolutions of the crankshaft, for every single rotation, of the camshaft. To my way of thinking, we have always had the ability, to advance or retard the valve timing, in relation to the crankshaft; by simply moving the chain links one or two teeth, forward or backward. Thirty six teeth on the camshaft sprocket, means moving the chain one link in either direction, at assembly, would result in advancing or retarding the camshaft, in relation to the crankshaft position, by 10 degrees, of camshaft rotation. However, when we talk about advance & retard, it is relation to the crankshaft; one link movement (10 degrees) on the camshaft, equals 20 degrees of movement on the crankshaft. That is a big jump, which is probably why the pins position on the camshaft sprocket, is the preferred method of advancing or retarding the camshaft in relation to crankshaft position. However, there are just nine holes drilled into the end of the camshaft sprocket. They are not evenly spaced. There is room for 3 more, if required. If there was 12, then 360 degree of camshaft rotation, would mean 360/12, would be 30 degrees per pin position, movement/relocation. However, as we have to relate that back to crankshaft degrees, that would mean, that moving the camshaft location pin, one hole to the left or right, would be making a change of 60 degrees of crankshaft rotation. That is a very big change, for one pin setting repositioning either advance or retard. I'll have to do a bit more research, as I'm sure there is something wrong with my logic above. By changing the sprocket position, & changing the cam shaft position, You either make all the valves open & close later or earlier. However, the distributor's cam is also moved, & therefore the triggering point, in the cycle, of the spark plugs is also moved. Maybe you have to move the distributor rotationally, around 1 distributor tooth, to compensate, so the spark fires at pretty much the same original timing point, in the cycle. The K Series dissy's had 12 teeth on the bottom of them, Moving them one tooth would effectively be 60 degrees of crankshaft rotation. (360/12 = 30 x 2 = 60 cranks shaft degrees) That could be, while reading some of the other Rollmaster instructions; the final comment was, to check your ignition/distributor settings. So I'll have to see if I can't find some Rollmaster instructions on the net somewhere, that explains all this, as it would be a pain to get it wrong, & have to keep removing the camshaft sprocket cover, time & again. I went looking on the Net, but only found this little diagram so far, which is the original factory timing marks. Cheers Banjo

So this week was a mixed bag of results. I decided to just remake the while bottom of the frame for the tailgate, but I didn't have a piece of steel long enough and I didn't want to put in a weld to get two pieces in when I can do it with one. So I'm holding off on the bottom until I get the steel. However I finally found someone willing to remake the rear quarter window seals. So using some rope in the locking channel, using that as a guide I took some basic measurements, lengths of each side, each angle and I even made a plywood template of the window. But then I sent all those off and I eagerly awaited the results. The photos sent through looked good So I now to remove the window and do a test fit when it arrives. If this works I'll order the same for the other side. Hope this works (insert gulp)

Yeah cool, let me know as I've never moved mine off 0. More so got it as I just wanted a quality timing chain system. 55kw... So would that be wheel or flywheel? More than tripled that at the wheels hehe

Hi Alfie, That's a nice looking radiator. Where are you physically located ? Is that radiator you have chosen, a dual pass model ? I note that there are some companies, supplying this Koyo radiator, complete with twin electric fans. https://www.tf-works.com/kswap-koyo-radiator-aluminum-fan-shroud-with-spal-fans/ Depending on how you are going to drive your KE26, & where you are located, that maybe a lot of radiator, for such a small engine ? I personally have found, that my 4KU engine, in a 2 door KE30 Corolla sedan, I can drive around all day, in 25-30 deg C ambient temperatures; in traffic, without the fan ever switching on. The ram effect of the air is sufficient to keep the engine coolant temperature in check, whilst the car is in motion. You may even be better off, with no stroud, & maybe just a single electric fan, under thermostatic control. It depends very much on where you are located, & the resident outside air temps, & how you intend to drive the KE26. Cheers Banjo

I’m restoring a 1971 Corolla Wagon KE26. I’m in the process of selecting a radiator and fan. I’ve decided on the Koyorad VH012825. My question is what fan and shroud is compatible? Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks Si, I'm sure it will all make sense, once I pull it off, & reposition the camshaft sprocket on the end of the cam. The rear of my 5K engine on the test bed, is exposed; & I have a large 360 degree wheel on the rear face of the flywheel. As it is easy to see, & was set up, with TDC no:1 cylinder being spot on; I should be able to confirm the opening on the inlet valve on No: 1 cylinder, before & after the moving of the camshaft sprocket. I will advise, once I tackle it, this evening. The 5K engine official engine power output specs, indicate it produced . . . . As it officially, developed 74 HP / 55kW, at 5600rpm; with standard valve opening & closing times; should I initially increase or decrease the opening of the valves, to increase the power in my "desired range" of cruising; at 2500 - 3500 RPM ? ( have a 5 speed KE70 gearbox, in my KE30 ). I'll do a bit of research, before I pick on a figure to; "test the waters". Cheers Banjo

👍 Also note the numbers around the outside of the sprocket. That's the new TDC "dot" (lining up with the dot on the crank sprocket and for under the can sprocket)that corresponds to whatever new hole (for Cam dowel pin) you choose.