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" issues that involve the starter motor / solenoid" Yes, that sounds like the place to look. Although you could actually start by checking the points and timing, getting the spark to fire at the right time makes it catch first time rather than third try. You'll need feeler gauges, a dwell meter if you're keen, and a timing light. You'll use them all your life. (well, maybe not if we all go electric!) "But i find when i start and stop it continuously the problem just gets worse and worse; " So, temperature related.. Check the earths from motor to chassis and chassis to battery. All must be tight and clean. Then check the +ve to the starter solenoid and the black activation wire on the solenoid. If all are tight and working, then its starter out time. Awkward to get to on a 4K, but you'll learn... The solenoid comes apart with a soldering iron on the wire that sticks out by the bolt terminals, and you can clean up the big contacts inside with a file and put a skinny washer under each of them. This makes up for the copper that has burned away on the contacts over the last 40years. It will let you inspect the teeth on the starter (usually OK) and the teeth on the ring gear that they hit. Take photos.. An auto electrician will check the starter windings, the copper wire loses its resistance and that is temperature dependent. The motor is a throw-away if that's the problem, in the good ol' days someone would rewind it. When it goes "click" quite solidly the solenoid magnet has slammed the starter teeth into the ring gear and simultaneously pushed the copper contacts together over the battery cables. If that is happening correctly then the starter takes over and turns. So the failure to turn can be lack of power going through those contacts, or the teeth jamming so it can't turn. Once you've sorted out the starting you can figure out how to tune it to make it start sharply and run well. They are simple motors and a great way to start modding cars.

bit american...but this is cool.

rolla68 ke10 5 speed- rebuild lowered front and rear, ke20 front discs 12inch hubaps, white walls crx seats and all retrimmed red vinyl 2 door 68, bare metal respray acrylic white inside, out. underneath, boot, engine bay suspension powered coated, new everything e.g. shockers, bushes, tierods etc. custom EFI alloy fuel tank EFI setup Microtek MT-8 new crash pad $$$$$ venetian retractable seatbelts lots lots more