Twinky

Well not soo much for nothing but definitely as cheap as I can, cheers for the suggestion though. I might have another option, water cooled disc brake.

Where the hell would I get something like that from and not have to give my first born child to afford? Another bullet in the barrel, I rang city truck dismantlers and in over 40 years they have never seen any of these brakes on trucks yet. So I'm not quite sure where to find one yet. Sure enough you can buy them new, but for 5k it's not worth it.

Actually..... On most of the sites I have been to the engines that they test have always been things like v8's and turbo monsters. Do you guys think that a truck wheel brake would be happy to sit on 150 -200 lb/ft for an hour?

I figured that my engines spend %80 of their life time outside of the engine bay, so it would be a good idea to tune them in before placing into the engine bay. That way I can tune an engine whilst still having another engine running stock in the car thus having less down time. So far everything is quite simple to do, just need to see how much these water brakes cost as I doubt eddy current retarders are plentiful and cheapish.

I agree with the statement about the council but allot of the service cuts have been health services and defence. I work in the public service and we are definitely feeling the pinch. My area that I work in is almost to the point of having a skeleton crew working on major projects and development that directly affects your friends and family deployed over seas. What is worse is that the new minister for defence is willing to further cut back spending, which means even more staff and budget cuts. They say that all these cuts will not have an effect on the safety of our troops but how is that so if we are effectively delaying major capabilities, even shit canning others as well as severely crippling our in house development all the while politicians are agreeing on 15% pay rises to themselves and denying us a ʞ©$ɟing 3% over 3 years. As for the desk jockeys they actually help us technicians out a tonne. Say for instance if we want to buy a simple item there is easily about a days worth of paper work to go through just to purchase a pack of nuts and bolts because we have to be held accountable for every cent spent. Now that a big chunk of those desk jockeys are gone a large portion of that paper work goes to us, reducing our work output further. All this just to put a measly budget surplus for an election?

Turbo is in the cabin because there is a v8 under the bonnet hogging all the engine bay space.

This is both crazy retarded and awesome at the same time More along the lines of what I was thinking

Possibly....

Kind of an odd one but does anyone here know much about the availability of second hand brake assist devices for heavy vehicles?? I'm only interested with the eddy current brake or the water/hydro brake for a home job that I have been concocting. Main thing would be the average price for one of these units and something capable to withstand something like 300 lb/ft. I haven't called any truck wreckers as I'm not exactly sure what to ask for or if many trucks came with these types of brake assists. I think buses mainly use them because they are much quieter than exhaust brakes. Any info would be great! Cheers!

I can personally vouch for Meguiars. I've got a mate who has a blue 88 mazda 626 with epic roof fade. It was that bad that the paint on the roof was an off white.I thought that the roof was too far gone to even bother with until I noticed that a bit of elbow grease got great results on one of the guards that had turned white as well. After about 10 mins of cutting in on the worst part of the roof I got a gleaming blue finish almost like new paint. ​So yes this stuff is definitely worth it. Just get your technique right and have plenty of patience as it will seriously take you a full day to go over the entire car properly. If you only take 3 or 4 hours then you have either gone too fast or you have access to a machine. This of course depends on the current condition of the paint, if it is ok then yes 4-5 hours should get it in showroom condition. You also get a great workout and a bad case of RSI.

Hey just wondering if we can get notifications on comments made in our photo albums? I've looked in the notification options page and there is only options on following other peoples galleries. It's just that I've had some questions posted in the photo comments and have only recently noticed that they were even there. Cheers

Hey painting with a roller is some serious business! http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

Well...... Half way to work this morning and BAM! Suspected oil pump failure.... Well it didn't exactly go bam, it was more like a whir whir whir noise with the engine cutting off. Engine is well seized up. ʞ©$ɟ my life.

4 cylinders is too mainstream, you have a hipster car. Also keeping your car battery charged isn't exciting.

Personally I like to insert a tooth pick underneath their toe nails and force them to kick a wall.

I think that someone could base my life on some sort of frustrating drama movie. At this very moment in time I am completely car-less. After my suspicious 5k noise I have found out that it is most likely that the 5k is completely fine because of something else I found by chance. After dropping in my old 4k which had been earlier reconditioned (head) and everything back together I found that I was not getting any boost pressure what so ever. After checking all the plumbing I couldn't figure out for the life of me what the hell was going on so I decide to pull everything apart again. Now usually I unbolt the manifolds taking off the top nuts first but for some reason I did the bottom nuts first and to my surprise the manifold top nuts were not holding the manifold at all!!! The thickness of the two manifolds is not the same! On some of the mounts it looks like there are grinding marks so at some stage the previous owner ground down some mounting points for some strange reason. Some of the points only hold just enough tension to look like they are holding the manifold on tight. My next plan of action was to get my spare head and dummy fit on the extractors and inlet and go at it with a die grinder. So I start to bolt everything to the spare head and what do I see?? The bottom of the manifold does not even touch the face of the head when bolted on. The inlet and exhaust runners foul causing a gap of about 2mm with the bolts fully tensioned. So of course when you are bolting it in the engine bay everything looks fine because you can't see the underside of the manifold. What else happens when you tighten a bolt on a piece of rigid metal acting like a leaver? It mother ʞ©$ɟing cracks that's what. A big ʞ©$ɟ off crack going at a 45 through the mount hole and up the runner back down to the mounting again. the piece was only holding on by it's last breath ready to brake off at the slightest fart. It's like someone shit in my breakfast and then threw it in my face. $300 later I have it back from the boys at TW engineering, crack ground out and re welded inside and out, mounting faces built up and faced to match, re faced exhaust and inlet and sand blasted too! Unfortunately at this time the supercharger will not go back on as I am re designing the mount and tensioner pulleys to sit more square and have more adjustment to them, I found that the belt was rubbing on the crank pulley because of a miss match on the charger pulley and tensioner pulleys. Close enough is not good enough. Also a reason for the charger coming off is because tuning by throttle position is an extremely bad way of tuning a motor because at what the load can change over a wide range. This is another nail in the coffin for Morepower who initially tuned my engine, they told me that they could not tune it by MAP sensor. After many coasting, idling problems I decided to try out tune my MAP and of course at first it did not work. But!!!!!! I saw that the reading of the graph were going from right to left instead of left to right. So after 5 mins I got the car to idle perfectly off the MAP (before my inlet was found to be fubar). So if they failed to see that reading error I doubt I'm taking my car back there. From now on I'll just wait in line for Brenton from Fours n More. So now, I'll source a 2 bar map sensor before I go about putting the supercharger back on. To top it all off my other car that had an engine rebuild, needed another one because some moron cracked a ring while placing it on the piston and failed to check it before putting the piston in the bore. This resulted in a scratched bore and excessive oil consumption. This is how Paradise Motors Mazda gave me back my car, ʞ©$ɟed. Good thing I got a warranty for the motor because they are still after 4 ʞ©$ɟing weeks rebuilding the engine again, when they got it back they again ʞ©$ɟed it by dropping the engine and "mangled a dowel on the head" as was said to me. Good thing we got a courtesy car from them. I can understand that it is not always the dealerships fault on what happens with the car but FFS they are in charge and in care of my car, so technically the buck stops with them. Proper checks should be done before handing over a car which has had the equivalent of open heart surgery. On another note my health has improved from all the walking that I have been forced to do.

Contact John from http://www.keicarshop.com/ he might still have some in stock, just because it isn't on the site does not mean he does not have them :). He has a tonne of K series stuff including his new adaptors to convert carby to single injector EFI. (GM)

Just curious as I have never seen it before..... Did you use that pocket axe thingo and lube to clean up the head and inlet/exhaust ports?? If so how did you go about doing it??

Well I guess that phrasing "calibrating the sensor" is a bit misleading. I'm actually calibrating the circuit to the sensor. The circuit is made for a specific Bosch LSU4.2 oxygen sensor. Each Bosch LSU4.2 sensor has a unique calibration resistor in place. You tune the wideband controller to read specific voltages from this calibration resistor. Being a unique resistance to each sensor this is why the circuits need calibration as voltages would differ between sensors. For instance the input resistance has to be something along the lines of 312 ohms and the unique calibration resistor has a resistance of 220 ohm you have to change the value via a resistor network to read 312 ohms. That would be done via a trim pot. Anyway the wideband controller comes with a set of instructions on how to calibrate the unit. Another point is that a car workshop that uses an 02 sensor to tune cars does not use it for the specific purpose of tuning a car but to see where they are in terms of fuel delivery. Most tuners are now turning to gas analysers to fine tune fuel mixtures. Each engine has a different ideal fuel mixture and a gas analyser will tell you at what point that is by reading the chemical composition of the gasses exiting the exhaust. I am similarly using the sensor to see where my engine is at and fine tune it on the road in terms of power delivery.

Hi guys just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these turbos (audi/VW 1.8ltr motors). I'm doing some hunting on the webs and I'm finding conflicting information but mostly positive feedback. My application is twincharging the 4k, running ~6psi (yet to be confirmed) on the charger and letting the turbo add another 7ish psi on top of that. Both units will be in circuit for 100% of the performance ergo no bypass valves. I've heard only a little about the K03, the K04 is sort of the direction I am looking at because of it's supposedly quick spool time. The main reason I am looking at this turbo is because I can get them new and I can get them cheap from a friend who imports them. I also have access to free RB 25 turbos (used, need rebuild), are they any good for a 4k?

WGMG: Exhaust shops that stock stuff all mufflers, resonators. Also how much people pay for such things e.g. a 20cm piece of 5" hollow steel tube bent at 45 degrees (dump tip) for $130. ʞ©$ɟ I am in the wrong industry.

Webber exhaust and magic beans.

Haha! The dark side he says! I consider carbs the dark side. I haven't had enough time to strip down the 5k and look at the bearings, it could be anything for all I know at this point. Only having a few randomly spaced hours a day to look at the motor let alone trying to re tune the 4k all gets very hectic. My focus is to try to get the 4k in good shape till I source another 4k and build it for boost. I was originally planning this for my 4k but the 5k decided to throw a hissy fit. Plans are for 1ggte pistons, rods, engine balancing, cam grind for boost and then add Ko4 turbo. At my current schedule and time expenditure I see this happening in two or so years............ Tis what happens when you decide to bring a poop factory into this world but I wouldn't have it any other way.

The wide-band will generally be more stable/less erratic as the voltage response curve is quite linear whereas the narrow band has somewhat of an s-curve where the flat response of the curve occurs at 0.66v or it's stoichiometric value, sharply rising on one edge and sharply falling on the other. That is what you see on the display where it is quite jumpy and more erratic the further away you get from stoichiometric. A quick graphic (if it shows correctly, ignore the dots) Or link here http://www.ztechz.net/id12.html Narrowband: ------- 1 Volts .........\ ..........\ <- 14.7: 1 (0.5 - 0.6 volts) ...........\ .............------------ 0 Volts Wideband: ............/ 5 Volts ........../ ........./ ......./ <- 14.7:1 (2.3Volts) ...../ .../ ./ 0 Volts So you can also see that the narrow band even has less of a voltage range to go through giving it less dynamic range. Not saying that narrow band sensors are bad or anything it's just that I am having difficulties using mine from a bare bones re tune on a forced induction engine. The great thing about this kit is that it also outputs an s-curve to my ECU giving me wideband accuracy to an originally narrowband input, giving greater economy in closed loop mode.

In total it'll cost me around the $220 mark all depending on how much I can get the 02 sensor for. From the reviews I have read the kit is very good and has an accuracy of 0.1 ratios (when calibrated properly). But they say that at more lean mixtures it is not as sensitive, that does not bother me as the leanest I will go is around 16:1 and the readings max out around 20:1. My other option was to buy one of the Innovative wideband o2 sensor/controller display kits for about $280 or $230 for the cheaper unit but I have had mixed reviews about it.